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So I just got done putting most of the ez efi system on my 78 corvette. Still have to finish putting the fuel tank back and the wires to the battery and the run wire that goes to the computer.
Can anyone tell me the best way to hook the run wire up. It has to go to a source that is hot when the key is in the run and crank position. Is it safe to splice into the ignition or should I use a relay, if so what type of relay?
any help would be great as I hope to finish it up this weekend as we are suppose to finally get some warmer temps here in Iowa.
I put a female spade connector on the pink wire then hooked it into the fuse panel to a "ignition out" male spade. It works fine... with this caveat - make sure you put it to the key-on spade that stays on when the ignition is in "start"... there are two... again, don't ask me how I know this
I put a female spade connector on the pink wire then hooked it into the fuse panel to a "ignition out" male spade. It works fine... with this caveat - make sure you put it to the key-on spade that stays on when the ignition is in "start"... there are two... again, don't ask me how I know this
That's how I did mine....I have my computer under the seat so the supplied lead was plenty long enough
Im impressed that you had enough room to put it under the seat, I pulled the glove box out and drilled a hole in the fire wall and ran the wire harness through, it worked well, the computer is behind the carpet on the passenger floor board, worked well for hiding the wires.
If you had a pic of the set up I would appreciate it, Im lost with electrical, but Ill do some more research, it sounds like its easy and quick to do, thanks!
Do you know what fuse that was that you connected to?
thanks for the quick reply, as a side note how do you like the efi?
uhhh... no - don't quote me on this, but I think it's the top spade connector in the center of the fuse panel.... easy enough to check - get your test light, connect it to the spade and twist the key, if it comes on, turn the key to start... if the light doesn't go off - you've found the right one.
I like it, I spent part of today tuning. The base tune gets it running, but you'll need to change the air mixtures if your motor is not stock.
I also think I'll outgrow it pretty quickly - I have a couple other projects that will be high-hp fuel injection, and the point of this system was to get comfortable with efi - and that it's done in spades.... problem is it's very simple - the IAC isn't adjustable (I say that so definitely, but that's not the case - I've not yet found its adjustment and I'm fairly certain it doesn't exist), so cold idle is kind of a pain.... the more complex systems allow you to change that value and individually adjust the fuel flow.
The one thing they don't say in the instructions - that you'll need to know - be absolutely 100% certain (more so, if you can) you have a clean tach signal.
Im impressed that you had enough room to put it under the seat, I pulled the glove box out and drilled a hole in the fire wall and ran the wire harness through, it worked well, the computer is behind the carpet on the passenger floor board, worked well for hiding the wires.
If you had a pic of the set up I would appreciate it, Im lost with electrical, but Ill do some more research, it sounds like its easy and quick to do, thanks!
I've got some pics somewhere on my photobucket page, I'll post'em up when I get time later this evening
The computer is pretty small so it fit right under the seat with no interference, but the main reason for putting it there was because the battery is close and I could keep the leads short...helps keep electrical noise down...plus the fuse box is only a couple feet in the other direction
FAST has their own forum, may want to check it out....just posted there today in fact...look under Tech Support>Technical Resources>Support Forum>FAST Product Support
Im looking forward to it a lot. I put a crate 350 290hp in it two years ago and made the mistake of putting the org. intake, dist. and quad carb back on. It drove bad...real bad, I just put a new air gap intake, new street fire dist. and with the efi I hope it will show me the power I was hoping from when I put the engine in.
I added a few pics of my fuse box if you have a chance to pic out the wires your are talking about, from what I can see in diagrams I think the pink with black stripe wire is the ignition...maybe.
added it to facebook...not sure how to post pics on here.
thanks 682XLR8, I will check it out, and Ill look for those photos later, I really know nothing about electrical and everything else about cars is self taught from trial and error, thanks again.
Im saving all my parts, I will have 2 of everything one day...lol the goal is to have all org parts for a numbers and part matching car one day if I every want to restore it to full glory, right now Im just playing with it.
Im impressed that you had enough room to put it under the seat, I pulled the glove box out and drilled a hole in the fire wall and ran the wire harness through, it worked well, the computer is behind the carpet on the passenger floor board, worked well for hiding the wires.
If you had a pic of the set up I would appreciate it, Im lost with electrical, but Ill do some more research, it sounds like its easy and quick to do, thanks!
Here you go, hope these pics help you out....yeah I know the carpet needs vacuuming
Took this pic during a stereo install
Here's the wiring harness covered with that wire loom stuff. I removed the plastic cover that fits just north of the console(earlier console design) drilled an 1 1/4" hole into the trans tunnel so that when viewed from the engine bay, the wiring is mostly hidden from view
Thanks for the photos, I can kinda see where you put the wire in the fuse box...kinda. Still impressed that you had enough wire length to hook up the connections with the computer under the seat, thanks for posting!
What hp numbers does this system allow for ? And going from a carb to the efi are you happier or do you think you could have gotten a carb to perform as well
The one I have says 550 at 43psi for fuel, which is adjustable but the injectors will hit a limit. I am switching for the fuel savings, reliability and I know nothing about tuning carbs, Im a youngin...I'm hoping to have it running this weekend and can fill you in how I like it...that is if I got every thing right...
682XLR8- How did you do your tach out put, do you have a separate ignition box or did you go off the hei distributor, if off the distributor how did you tie in to it.
What hp numbers does this system allow for ? And going from a carb to the efi are you happier or do you think you could have gotten a carb to perform as well
650hp
I like it because of this. Yesterday I was driving my 'vette (keep in mind I just got this thing running) and it was doing the lean pop at WOT, it was idling like crap, and it seemed to be missing power - all typical carb tuning stuff.
I checked the AFRs, noticed that the computer's programming said 13.5 for idle, 13.0 at WOT, and 13.7 cruise..... however, the car was struggling to stay idling and the actual AFRs were 12.4 at idle, 13.1 at cruise and 12.0 at WOT. I changed the target numbers on the computer to close to what it said it was using to stay running.... car runs awesome. No fuel smell on my hands, took maybe 2 minutes and I'll fine tune it some more later. Could I do it with a carb? yep, but it'd have been most of a day to get to that point.... and I'd smell like gas.
682XLR8- How did you do your tach out put, do you have a separate ignition box or did you go off the hei distributor, if off the distributor how did you tie in to it.
What hp numbers does this system allow for ? And going from a carb to the efi are you happier or do you think you could have gotten a carb to perform as well
Went from a Holley 650/Air-gap intake to multi-port EFI, very happy I made the switch...easier starting, better idle and throttle response, better mileage at cruise, no more gas smell....
I put a female spade connector on the pink wire then hooked it into the fuse panel to a "ignition out" male spade. It works fine... with this caveat - make sure you put it to the key-on spade that stays on when the ignition is in "start"... there are two... again, don't ask me how I know this
Wanted to post an update....got the wires hooked up there was an open connector in the "pink" vehicle wire that was hot in run/crank position, went to crank it and nothing...ended up being the rpm module bolt for ground was not tight. After fixing that and a return fuel line leak it fired right up, gave it 30 mins of learning time and then went out for the first drive. Was a little nervouse since I don't trust my work but it ran great, never ran so good really, thanks for the help, loving driving the vett all over again.