C3 Tech/Performance V8 Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine, Basic Tech and Maintenance for the C3 Corvette
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Old May 9, 2013 | 07:08 PM
  #21  
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So just to clarify, you think it's the throttle shafts that are leaking air or are the butterflies open too far.
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Old May 9, 2013 | 11:10 PM
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if i remember correctly, the mopar 6 pack carbs were very similar and they had plugs on the baseplate of the end carbs with mixture screws behind them. check with the holley tech line.
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Old May 10, 2013 | 05:43 PM
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I had to move the car so I reinstalled the rear carb but put a blocking plate between the base of the carb and the manifold. There was a substantial improvement in idle and off idle performance leading me to believe there was too much air flow as I initially suspected. I don't think the shaft is leaking. There is too much space around the throttle/butterflies when held closed. I do not believe there is a mixture screw for the outer carbs. How do I specifically reduce the gap around the throttle/butterflies?
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Old May 11, 2013 | 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by pltmgr
I had to move the car so I reinstalled the rear carb but put a blocking plate between the base of the carb and the manifold. There was a substantial improvement in idle and off idle performance leading me to believe there was too much air flow as I initially suspected. I don't think the shaft is leaking. There is too much space around the throttle/butterflies when held closed. I do not believe there is a mixture screw for the outer carbs. How do I specifically reduce the gap around the throttle/butterflies?
There is a Phillips head screw that connects the small throttle shaft bracket to the diaphragm shaft. Take the screw off and disconnect the throttle shaft from the bracket and diaphragm shaft. The throttle blades on mine close against the throttle bores and so should yours. The bracket has a stop that prevents the shaft from opening past 100% open (over-travelling), but there is no stop on the closed side. If yours don't close against the bore, what is preventing it with the bracket off?
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Old May 11, 2013 | 07:06 PM
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just to humor me , look at the baseplate of your end carbs on the front. just in from the bolts that hold it to the manifold, there should be a part of the casting that comes out maybe 1/4 inch diameter? on each side, there should be a hard cap on it nothing that looks like it removes easily.that is where the mixture screws should be. you may not need to do anything with them but that should be where they are.let me know i don't think I've lost it completely
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Old May 11, 2013 | 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by 7t9l82
if i remember correctly, the mopar 6 pack carbs were very similar and they had plugs on the baseplate of the end carbs with mixture screws behind them. check with the holley tech line.
Mopars used different end carbs. My Bro-in-Law had a 70 440 6 pack Cuda and he thought the end carbs were 500 cfm, for a total of 1350. The Vette's tri-powers used a 466 cfm end carb with no adjustment features. Holley part number 3659. I'm looking at a Holley book right now and the end carbs have a fixed idle circuit in the form of a metering plate. There are no plugs in the base. I just looked at 2 sets of these carbs.
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Old May 11, 2013 | 10:18 PM
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thanks for looking apparently the mopar version was different . altho they also had metering plates
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Old May 11, 2013 | 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by 7t9l82
thanks for looking apparently the mopar version was different . altho they also had metering plates
IIRC, the mopar setup had mechanical 2nds, no?
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Old May 12, 2013 | 12:58 AM
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vacum
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Old May 12, 2013 | 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 7t9l82
just to humor me , look at the baseplate of your end carbs on the front. just in from the bolts that hold it to the manifold, there should be a part of the casting that comes out maybe 1/4 inch diameter? on each side, there should be a hard cap on it nothing that looks like it removes easily.that is where the mixture screws should be. you may not need to do anything with them but that should be where they are.let me know i don't think I've lost it completely
You are correct, you have not lost it completely. On page 136 of the current Hot Rod magazine is a picture of a 440 6-pack end carb, with the idle mixture screws under metal plugs just as you described.

Last edited by Super6; May 12, 2013 at 09:53 PM. Reason: Typo correction - 440, not 340.
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Old May 13, 2013 | 01:03 AM
  #31  
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Interesting thread and problem. Although not tripower related, Lars has a paper somewhere describing how to properly center the butterflies in a q-jet. I wonder if that might help.

Originally Posted by Super6

It is common to see clips from the door internal lock rods used for the tripower, but there are specific clips for the carb.
I have a tripower setup waiting for a big block. The throttle linkage always bound at the rear carb. I just checked and, just as you said, the clips are identical to the door lock rod clips. Thanks or pointing this out. I could have chased that problem for months

Last edited by CA-Legal-Vette; May 13, 2013 at 01:07 AM.
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Old May 13, 2013 | 03:12 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by CA-Legal-Vette
Interesting thread and problem. Although not tripower related, Lars has a paper somewhere describing how to properly center the butterflies in a q-jet. I wonder if that might help.

I have a tripower setup waiting for a big block. The throttle linkage always bound at the rear carb. I just checked and, just as you said, the clips are identical to the door lock rod clips. Thanks or pointing this out. I could have chased that problem for months
Some of what the OP has said, has me wondering if it's possible that the rear carb, which has a 1.75" diameter throttle bore, has the throttle blades for a 1.69" bore (the next size down). I don't know if you could even do that on purpose. I have posted a pic of the underside of one of my rear carbs, but it isn't approved yet. I had the carb sitting upside-down on a very bright multi-bulb LED work light and you can hardly see any light at all around the throttle blades. When approved, it will be in "My Corvette Photos".

Sometimes, even with the wrong clip, the rear linkage will clear the intake runner if the carb is pushed forward as far as it will go (until the slop between the carb base mounting hole and the mounting stud is zero). I know because I had a newly rebuilt L71 with only 8 miles on it, when the rear clip hung up on the runner and popped off, allowing the "brand new" motor to instantaneously rev to 7300 before I could get the ignition off. Ticked me off that that would happen when the engine wasn't even broken-in. If you have or have had the wrong clip on the rear linkage, you might see little scrape marks on the intake runner.

Last edited by Super6; May 13, 2013 at 03:18 AM.
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Old May 13, 2013 | 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by TheSkunkWorks
IIRC, the mopar setup had mechanical 2nds, no?
Mopar Direct Connection used to sell the mechanical carb setup over the counter. Part number 4782 for the center card and 4783 for the end carbs. All three carbs have metering blocks and acceleration pumps. To fit the extra length of the metering blocks on the rear carb, all three carbs are setup with side hung float bowls, which also helps clear the linkage.

I scored a set on eBay and installed them on my 496. Fun, fun, fun.

No vacuum pods:


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Old May 13, 2013 | 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by pltmgr
...There is too much space around the throttle/butterflies when held closed. I do not believe there is a mixture screw for the outer carbs. How do I specifically reduce the gap around the throttle/butterflies?
According to the Holley 3x2=6 manual for the corvette, "The only mechanical connection between the three carburetors is a one-way linkage to insure positive closing of both end carburetors when the accelerator pedal is released" --I would start there to ensure it is adjusted to close properly.

Did you read the link I posted earlier? Do you have the correct jets? Correct orifice in the metering plate? Float levels correct? All good things to check. Also, on Rochester tri-powers, the butterflys on the rear carbs can be coated with a sealer and lapped in to the throttle body to ensure a tight seal. Haven't heard of needing to do that on a Holley but may be something to look up.
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