I did a bad thing...
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 8,351
Likes: 75
From: Tampa Bay FL
I did a bad thing...
The other end is in the snout of the crankshaft. Overtightened the damper tool (left the prybar in the flywheel).
I think the engine now has to come out (crank repair/replace).
Don't ask me how disgusted I am with myself right now.
I think the engine now has to come out (crank repair/replace).
Don't ask me how disgusted I am with myself right now.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 3,126
Likes: 15
Is the broken off threaded part bottomed tightly into the crank? I am thinking that it is not. Broken off part should be loose in the crank and may be easy to back out. Is it hollow or solid? Take a screw driver or easy out and see if you can grip it and back it out. mike...
DUB beat me.
DUB beat me.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 5,557
Likes: 9
From: Oquirrh Mountains
St. Jude Donor '09
Before you get that drastic, get yourself a thick washer just the size or slightly smaller than your balancer bolt. Have someone with a mig welder weld the centre of the washer to the balancer bolt stub. Obviously you don't want to weld to the crank. Make sure and fill the entire center with weld. Now weld a fair size nut to the washer. Let the whole thing cool; which will let it shrink slightly. You should now be able to carefully back the bolt stub out of your crank.
Last edited by Ben Lurkin; Apr 27, 2013 at 06:40 PM.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 8,351
Likes: 75
From: Tampa Bay FL
Good advice. I'll see if I can take needle nose pliers to the piece to see if it is loose in the threads. It is sort of 'sunk' in the snout as the piece twisted off deeper in the crank.
May have to use the easy out or welder option. Perhaps I can hire the repair via Angie's list if it comes to that.
Thanks!
May have to use the easy out or welder option. Perhaps I can hire the repair via Angie's list if it comes to that.
Thanks!
Racer
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 261
Likes: 1
From: Montgomery TX
Same thing happened to me using a China made install tool and not much effort.
I removed mine with an eazy out. The bolt never breaks off square so you will not be able to drill a hole on the stud. I used a 7/16 socket head cap screw. The threaded end fit into the hole in the crank. Cut the thread end so it just touches the broken stub in the crank and the shoulder of the head bottoms on the end of the crank. Drill a 1/8" hole through the center of the bolt. You now have a drill guide to drill a hole in the center of the stub. Go to an industrial supply house or Graingers and get a 1/8" Left Hand drill bit.
If you are lucky the left hand bit will back out the stub. Make sure you run your drill in reverse! If not keep drilling at least 1/2" into the stub. Use the eazy out and back it out.
BTW, I bought the install tool from Summit. I called them and they credited the cost toward a better one made in the US and discounted it and shipped for free with a return shipping label for the busted one. Great customer service!
I removed mine with an eazy out. The bolt never breaks off square so you will not be able to drill a hole on the stud. I used a 7/16 socket head cap screw. The threaded end fit into the hole in the crank. Cut the thread end so it just touches the broken stub in the crank and the shoulder of the head bottoms on the end of the crank. Drill a 1/8" hole through the center of the bolt. You now have a drill guide to drill a hole in the center of the stub. Go to an industrial supply house or Graingers and get a 1/8" Left Hand drill bit.
If you are lucky the left hand bit will back out the stub. Make sure you run your drill in reverse! If not keep drilling at least 1/2" into the stub. Use the eazy out and back it out.
BTW, I bought the install tool from Summit. I called them and they credited the cost toward a better one made in the US and discounted it and shipped for free with a return shipping label for the busted one. Great customer service!
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 8,351
Likes: 75
From: Tampa Bay FL
Same thing happened to me using a China made install tool and not much effort.
I removed mine with an eazy out. The bolt never breaks off square so you will not be able to drill a hole on the stud. I used a 7/16 socket head cap screw. The threaded end fit into the hole in the crank. Cut the thread end so it just touches the broken stub in the crank and the shoulder of the head bottoms on the end of the crank. Drill a 1/8" hole through the center of the bolt. You now have a drill guide to drill a hole in the center of the stub. Go to an industrial supply house or Graingers and get a 1/8" Left Hand drill bit.
If you are lucky the left hand bit will back out the stub. Make sure you run your drill in reverse! If not keep drilling at least 1/2" into the stub. Use the eazy out and back it out.
BTW, I bought the install tool from Summit. I called them and they credited the cost toward a better one made in the US and discounted it and shipped for free with a return shipping label for the busted one. Great customer service!
I removed mine with an eazy out. The bolt never breaks off square so you will not be able to drill a hole on the stud. I used a 7/16 socket head cap screw. The threaded end fit into the hole in the crank. Cut the thread end so it just touches the broken stub in the crank and the shoulder of the head bottoms on the end of the crank. Drill a 1/8" hole through the center of the bolt. You now have a drill guide to drill a hole in the center of the stub. Go to an industrial supply house or Graingers and get a 1/8" Left Hand drill bit.
If you are lucky the left hand bit will back out the stub. Make sure you run your drill in reverse! If not keep drilling at least 1/2" into the stub. Use the eazy out and back it out.
BTW, I bought the install tool from Summit. I called them and they credited the cost toward a better one made in the US and discounted it and shipped for free with a return shipping label for the busted one. Great customer service!
Looks like I have a good job for my drill press. I have a bunch of cap screws and will see if one is the right size, cut it to length and drill the 1/8" guide hole in it.
Good info. Thanks for sharing.
Last edited by TedH; Apr 27, 2013 at 08:23 PM.
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Racer
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 261
Likes: 1
From: Montgomery TX
My Comp Camps install tool came from Summit also. I'll check on getting the replacement/credit.
Looks like I have a good job for my drill press. I have a bunch of cap screws and will see if one is the right size, cut it to length and drill the 1/8" guide hole in it.
Good info. Thanks for sharing.
Looks like I have a good job for my drill press. I have a bunch of cap screws and will see if one is the right size, cut it to length and drill the 1/8" guide hole in it.
Good info. Thanks for sharing.
I used my digital camera on Macro to take a photo of the end of the crank to see the broken stud inside. You can't get your head down there to see it. I also used a right angle drill so I didn't need to pull the radiator.
Good luck.
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 197
Likes: 0
Same thing happened to me using a China made install tool and not much effort.
I removed mine with an eazy out. The bolt never breaks off square so you will not be able to drill a hole on the stud. I used a 7/16 socket head cap screw. The threaded end fit into the hole in the crank. Cut the thread end so it just touches the broken stub in the crank and the shoulder of the head bottoms on the end of the crank. Drill a 1/8" hole through the center of the bolt. You now have a drill guide to drill a hole in the center of the stub. Go to an industrial supply house or Graingers and get a 1/8" Left Hand drill bit.
If you are lucky the left hand bit will back out the stub. Make sure you run your drill in reverse! If not keep drilling at least 1/2" into the stub. Use the eazy out and back it out.
BTW, I bought the install tool from Summit. I called them and they credited the cost toward a better one made in the US and discounted it and shipped for free with a return shipping label for the busted one. Great customer service!
I removed mine with an eazy out. The bolt never breaks off square so you will not be able to drill a hole on the stud. I used a 7/16 socket head cap screw. The threaded end fit into the hole in the crank. Cut the thread end so it just touches the broken stub in the crank and the shoulder of the head bottoms on the end of the crank. Drill a 1/8" hole through the center of the bolt. You now have a drill guide to drill a hole in the center of the stub. Go to an industrial supply house or Graingers and get a 1/8" Left Hand drill bit.
If you are lucky the left hand bit will back out the stub. Make sure you run your drill in reverse! If not keep drilling at least 1/2" into the stub. Use the eazy out and back it out.
BTW, I bought the install tool from Summit. I called them and they credited the cost toward a better one made in the US and discounted it and shipped for free with a return shipping label for the busted one. Great customer service!
I've done the "weld a nut on" thing before, with great success (on an approx. 1 & 1/2"-long steel bolt, into an aluminum bell housing, i.e., 14 years of galvanic corrosion [between dissimilar metals] plus road salt) but never in a crank.
texasbaehr's "drill guide" idea is brand new to me--and a GREAT IDEA, IMHO. Thanks!
To the OP:
If anyone welds on your car, make sure the battery is disconnected first. And if they don't already know to do that, I wouldn't let them weld on my car--just my .02.
Oh--I thought enthusiasm for Easy-Outs had cooled, due to the fact that if THEY break off, they're harder to drill through than the original bolt. But I can see why they're being recommended here, because the bolt in question is not frozen into place by years of rust--it should back right out. Having said that, I would buy the highest quality Easy-Out I could, to avoid any problems.
Good luck!
And please take some before and after pics, so we can help you celebrate.
Peter
Last edited by Mid-Years Forever!; Apr 28, 2013 at 06:35 AM.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 8,351
Likes: 75
From: Tampa Bay FL
I had a Proform tool that broke. Replaced it with a Moroso which worked great.
I used my digital camera on Macro to take a photo of the end of the crank to see the broken stud inside. You can't get your head down there to see it. I also used a right angle drill so I didn't need to pull the radiator.
Good luck.
I used my digital camera on Macro to take a photo of the end of the crank to see the broken stud inside. You can't get your head down there to see it. I also used a right angle drill so I didn't need to pull the radiator.
Good luck.
Tried a telescopic magnet just in case; no 'pull'. The damper will need to come back off (hope for last time). Will fabricate/drill the guide on my drill press today.
Pro
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 558
Likes: 22
From: Vancouver, B.C., Canada
I had a Proform tool that broke. Replaced it with a Moroso which worked great.
I used my digital camera on Macro to take a photo of the end of the crank to see the broken stud inside. You can't get your head down there to see it. I also used a right angle drill so I didn't need to pull the radiator.
Good luck.
I used my digital camera on Macro to take a photo of the end of the crank to see the broken stud inside. You can't get your head down there to see it. I also used a right angle drill so I didn't need to pull the radiator.
Good luck.
So what is a good USA made brand of tool to buy?? Is Moroso good?? Any others??