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Old May 1, 2013 | 05:34 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by dtamustang
if anyone hasn't noticed there seems to be a few brake threads on the forum now,same old problems and questions. after reading through these threads i have come to the conclusion (some) people just don't understand how a brake system works. as mentioned above a competent person who understands what each component does and how all the components work together seem to have fewer (no) problems than folks who know how to bleed brakes but really don't understand the ins and outs of what they are actually trying to acomplish.
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Old May 1, 2013 | 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by qwank
How ever many '67-'69 Z28s GM made
Not really a good comparison, as ALL of the '67 Camaros' front calipers were the 4 piston design. FWIW, my father had on of these Camaros, and it was his year round, DD, for 3 years. He never had a brake problem, but on the other hand, we didn't also have a '67 'Vette at the time, to use for comparison purposes.....
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Old May 2, 2013 | 03:29 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Tim H
Thats makes no sense, if you sit a 67 Camaro next to a 67 vette for 30 years and the Camaro's brakes work fine then the vettes should also.
Vette brakes are junk from the day you put new ones on until you have to replace them again, and again, and ,again.
Sorry, have to disagree with you, and reading what you wrote, makes me believe you don't know anything about the brake system...just sayin'

I doubt very much if both the Corvette and Camaro brakes would be functional after sitting for 30 years....

I do know my 68 brakes were fine sitting for 15 years...
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Old May 2, 2013 | 03:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike Ward
I haven't had to touch my system at ll since the mid 90s when I did a frame off. Anybody that has problems every year or two must be doing something weird.
Ding Ding Ding we have a winner....

No argument here with what you said
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Old May 2, 2013 | 03:43 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Jeff_Keryk
Ok, if the system is working, you have good brakes.
The problem is, getting the system working is difficult in many cases.
Perhaps more people have problems than not.
Those are the numbers and that's why I say these brakes are a bad design.
Brakes should be easy.
Maybe those people should have a competent person rebuild their brake system...if they are having problems, then they don't know what they are doing...right? Right...I knew you would agree...
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Old May 2, 2013 | 07:59 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by GDaina
Sorry, have to disagree with you, and reading what you wrote, makes me believe you don't know anything about the brake system...just sayin' Really, then how did I replace all 4 calipers and pads then bleed them and have brakes if I don't know anything about brakes? Who made you a brake expert?

I doubt very much if both the Corvette and Camaro brakes would be functional after sitting for 30 years.... Sorry but I 100% guarantee the Camaro would work before the vettes brakes would. I pulled a 71 442 w-30 out of a field that sit for exactly 22 years and never touched the brakes and they worked perfect. My vette sat for exactly 1 month this winter and a caliper started leaking all over the garage floor.

I do know my 68 brakes were fine sitting for 15 years...
I doubt it.
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Old May 2, 2013 | 09:43 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by GDaina
Ding Ding Ding we have a winner....

No argument here with what you said
George! Long time no hear!

Welcome back.
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Old May 2, 2013 | 10:24 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by GDaina
Maybe those people should have a competent person rebuild their brake system...if they are having problems, then they don't know what they are doing...right? Right...I knew you would agree...
Actually, I don't agree. I have done many brake jobs, on 60's cars up to modern cars. I have done brake jobs on 3 C3's. The only way I could get a pedal was with a Motive Bleeder. My point is, brakes should be easy and these brakes can be a pain to get a firm pedal.
Call me incompetent if you wish, but that's my experience.
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Old May 2, 2013 | 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeff_Keryk
Actually, I don't agree. I have done many brake jobs, on 60's cars up to modern cars. I have done brake jobs on 3 C3's. The only way I could get a pedal was with a Motive Bleeder. My point is, brakes should be easy and these brakes can be a pain to get a firm pedal.
Call me incompetent if you wish, but that's my experience.
Here's a tip to bleeding the brakes...start the fluid moving then let gravity take over one wheel at a time...foolproof...

Never used any of the bleeders...just stepped on the pedal, got the fluid to move, used a dead blow hammer to whack the caliper two three times to dislodge any air bubbles...simple, no hassle...and brakes are tighter than a....um...better not say....
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Old May 2, 2013 | 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Ward
George! Long time no hear!

Welcome back.
Hey Mike, been a while...

lots of goin on...doing a complete resto on a NOM 63 Coupe, removed both rear quarters...ungodly flares...
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Old May 2, 2013 | 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeff_Keryk
Actually, I don't agree. I have done many brake jobs, on 60's cars up to modern cars. I have done brake jobs on 3 C3's. The only way I could get a pedal was with a Motive Bleeder. My point is, brakes should be easy and these brakes can be a pain to get a firm pedal.
Call me incompetent if you wish, but that's my experience.
If you're not getting a firm pedal, you're not getting all the air out..try gravity bleeding, and when the jar doesn't bubble, go to the next bleeder...I assume the MC was bled first...
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Old May 2, 2013 | 02:48 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by GDaina
If you're not getting a firm pedal, you're not getting all the air out..try gravity bleeding, and when the jar doesn't bubble, go to the next bleeder...I assume the MC was bled first...


Not only this but there are tools to clamp the brake hose so you can trace where the problem is. If you clamp and hose and still have a soft pedal move to another hose till the pedal gets firm.
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Old May 2, 2013 | 04:15 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by GDaina
If you're not getting a firm pedal, you're not getting all the air out..try gravity bleeding, and when the jar doesn't bubble, go to the next bleeder...I assume the MC was bled first...
I understand the problem. I have bled lotsa brakes. I tried gravity bleeding, 2 person bleeding, who knows what else. Other cars have been a snap. Heck, I gravity bled the front calipers on my 200K mile Tundra in just a few minutes by myself. Gravity bleeding did not work on 3 C3's. The Motive Bleeder finally gave me pedal. That was years ago and they are still fine. My point is these brakes are the only ones I have had a problem with. And there are many brake bleeding issue posts. Others can accept that or not. Just my experience...
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Old May 2, 2013 | 05:00 PM
  #54  
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If your having that much trouble bleeding the brakes, something else is wrong in the system. I have bled the brakes on my C3 probably 6-7 times in 30 years, changing the fluid every 3-4 years and replacing the OEM cailpers in 1985 with SS ones with regular lip sealed ones, and I have never had an issue-simple 2 person job, no different than the many other standard type brakes that i have bleed on other cars in the same time period!

Again, if bleeding the brakes is requiring a lot of effort on a C3, than the system is compromised some where in the system or the operator is doing something wrong!
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Old May 2, 2013 | 05:06 PM
  #55  
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Can I join in with a question ?

I have put my car together after a full body off. Original calipers were badly rusted and I order a new (not rebuilt) SS sleeved from VBP.

First testdrive done yesterday and the brake light seems to come on when applying the brakes. Checked for leaks but found none. Parking brake switch seems to be working correctly. I guess it's due to the so called prop. valve (messing block). Pumped the pedal a dozen times very hard. Will have to testdrive it once more to see if it has disappeared.
If not, what is the next step.
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Old May 2, 2013 | 06:11 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by Belgian1979vette
what is the next step.
Bleed the brakes....get all the air out of the system...use a small jar fill it partially w/brake fluid, attach a vacuum hose to the bleeder, the other end in the jar..bleed...when there are no more bubbles...next bleeder.
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Old May 2, 2013 | 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeff_Keryk
Gravity bleeding did not work on 3 C3's.
Yes it does...works on mine, and on countless of other C2 and C3's that I have bled...I don't want to labor the point. As others have pointed out, something else was wrong with those cars that prevented total air extraction...
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Old May 3, 2013 | 08:32 AM
  #58  
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the two biggest problems i have seen with brake bleeding.
1 going to great lengths to "bench bleed" a master cyl. install on it the car and not bleed the lines going the master cyl.
2 "pumping" the brake pedal. slow and steady one stroke at a time is the way to go.all pumping the pedal gets you is a bazillion tiny bubbles instead of a few big ones.the harder and faster you pump the worse things get.
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Old May 3, 2013 | 09:18 AM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by Jeff_Keryk
Actually, I don't agree. I have done many brake jobs, on 60's cars up to modern cars. I have done brake jobs on 3 C3's. The only way I could get a pedal was with a Motive Bleeder. My point is, brakes should be easy and these brakes can be a pain to get a firm pedal.
Call me incompetent if you wish, but that's my experience.
I can get a firm pedal on any C2/C3 with a coffee cup and a piece of rubber hose. The pressure feeders can work fine but are overkill for a good mechanic.
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Old May 3, 2013 | 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by GDaina
Yes it does...works on mine, and on countless of other C2 and C3's that I have bled...I don't want to labor the point. As others have pointed out, something else was wrong with those cars that prevented total air extraction...


Unfortunately... this falls on deaf ears.
I gave up the crusade.
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