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that's not the best route to go for ride height. You will basically be putting more weight on the same size bolt which in turn will lift the car more and give you a taller ride height, but your half shaft will be at angles and put more strain on that part of your drive train.
All springs are made with the intention that the half shafts will be as straight as possible at rest by adjusting the length of your bolts. It really doesn't matter the weight of the spring since you could achieve the same result with longer bolts. The best way to increase ride height and keep your half shafts level is bigger tires.
Does anyone know if the VPB composite 420# spring will make the car sit higher then the 360#?
I have the 420# with my stock length bolts. I have 1/2 -3/4 inch of thread below the nuts. IMO the spring is stiffer not taller. I wish that they offered a 500# because I got my rear tires rubbing the fenders in extreme turns and ended up cranking some more body lift into the nuts
I too have the 420# spring. This thing is stiff and bouncy on the street. I had 8" bolts in and adjusted down to the end of the threads in order to get my halfshafts horizontal. I have very little tire rub after lowering. Get ready for a stiff ride on the street.
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
I had the 420# spring on my car. Took two tries, though. The first one I received had excess arch for a spring that stiff (theoretically if a spring is made with the correct free height or arch the car should sit at the same height after installation). I called the manufacturer and complained. To their credit they exchanged it for another 420# spring that had less arch.
Ran it for a lot of years and liked the ride and handling.
Unless the ONLY use your car has is running on a road course, why would you even consider installing a spring that has over twice the load rating that came with the car. For normal street driving, it would be like riding in a buckboard...with no springs--harsh as he!!, I would think.
I guess it all depends on what you want for your car.
Unless the ONLY use your car has is running on a road course, why would you even consider installing a spring that has over twice the load rating that came with the car. For normal street driving, it would be like riding in a buckboard...with no springs--harsh as he!!, I would think.
I guess it all depends on what you want for your car.
IT actually becomes a must as the traction of the tires goes up. Just think of the dynamics of launching your car and getting air under your front tires. So an example if all 3200 pounds is shifted to the rear. 1600 per tire. If you have a 400# spring you will compress the rear tires 4 inches. Same thing in a turn. exceed 1 "G" and the outside tires are taking on lots of weight.
I went from a 500+ steel to a wimpy 420# because I'm not running slicks anymore. My tires were right into the fender flares. I had to redo them and paint them.
I have to have 500 rear and 600 front just to drive around town
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Originally Posted by 7T1vette
Unless the ONLY use your car has is running on a road course, why would you even consider installing a spring that has over twice the load rating that came with the car. For normal street driving, it would be like riding in a buckboard...with no springs--harsh as he!!, I would think.
I guess it all depends on what you want for your car.
No. Initially I swapped out my steel stock spring (IIRC, 170#/in) for a 360# fiberglass spring. It was like riding around in a Cadillac after the swap! The elimination of inter-leaf friction allowed the spring to do its job (ie: actually flex). The stock spring had so much inter-leaf friction that the suspension was essentially solid (buckboard quality). The ride with the 360# spring was so soft that I sold that spring and bought a 420# rate spring. Firm ride, but definitely not choppy.
The redesign of the C4 Corvette saw the use of computer modeling on frames & suspension components. Prior spring/shock designs were based on very stiff/firm springs in order to get good handling for racing and/or road course conditions.
But the computer models showed that softer springs (than would normally be used) and gas-type shock absorbers would provide even better handling capabilities PLUS offer a smoother and less harsh ride. I'm no expert on road racing or the suspensions used for that purpose, but a 420# rear spring just seems like "old school" strategy.
I'd be interested to hear some more experienced discussion on the topic.
I had the 420# spring on my car. Took two tries, though. The first one I received had excess arch for a spring that stiff (theoretically if a spring is made with the correct free height or arch the car should sit at the same height after installation). I called the manufacturer and complained. To their credit they exchanged it for another 420# spring that had less arch.
Ran it for a lot of years and liked the ride and handling.
I looked and I actually have 330# VBP springs I don't think going up to 360# is going to make that big of difference. I have Bilstein sports but now that I have 18" rims and wider tires they rub on the upper frame when I go over a big bump. I just ordered some QA1 single adjustable shocks I'll see how that works. I go to Road America once a year so I'm hoping I can turn them all the way up for that.