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On my 74 l82 I'm burning oil like a mad man. I'm talking 1/2 litre per 300 miles specially if I'm on the hwy and rpm about 3000. Now this was a problem last year had my mechanic do the valve seals or so I think as I replaced valve covers last weekend and thought it was weird when the original old gaskets were still there hummm. So is it possible to be burning that much oil just by having bad piston rings ?
I don't get any smoke while accelerating or anything or could it be valve seals ??
Do you have a working PCV system and do the valve covers have a 'splash baffle' inside the covers, under the PCV valve (and any other hose connections going to the covers)?
Without an oil baffle under the PCV valve, oil splash from the rocker arms will get sucked directly into the PCV valve and burned along with the carb's fuel charge.
If you are not seeing any bluish smoke out the exhaust, it is likely that your problem is due to this issue OR a damage/torn gasket on one of the cylinder heads.
Have you always had this problem with the car, or is this problem 'new'?
Pcv valve is new along with new elderbrock valve covers which have the baffles since I bought the car it's always been burning /losing oil but I'm driving it more now and burning more quickly then ever. I've tried oil treatment etc nothing works.
Ok looked on u tube a few videos on leak down testing ok so if all my cylinfmders have say a 40 percent leak down then would it be my valves that are bad ???
Leak down test is good but I prefer to do a dry then wet compression test. Pull all your plugs if you can get your throttle wide open if you can't it's not critical. Get a compression tester that screws into the cylinder Harbor freight if you don't have one. After you screw it into he cylinder turn the engine over about 5 revolutions and pay particular attention to the first revolution and how much the needle jumps to. The first hit should be the strongest. After it turns about 5 revolutions write down your reading. Do this to all 8. After you have done that go back and do it again but this time you will squirt a little motor oil into the cylinder. Do all 8 again and compare the readings for each cylinder. A big difference in readings indicates a lower end problem. Readings that remain relatively the same would indicate your oil problem is in the top end.
Good info. I have a friend he told me doesn't matter if the valve seals are new and that I needed new guides lol
I guess there's a lot of things that cause oil to escape
I might just start on a leak down test like some suggested if its good then I'm thinking something is going on in the top end