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Vacuum Check Valve

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Old May 29, 2013 | 12:24 PM
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Default Vacuum Check Valve

How many inches of Vaccum is needed to get a good flow of air through the Vaccum System's Check Valve????

The Replacement Valves I've been getting are very hard to get air to flow through them... almost as if you need a good amount of vacuum just to get the valve to open and allow air to flow though.

The Maximum Vacuum I was able to achieve in setting my carb, was about 13 inches. (Idle RPM is about 850-1000 and I have a lumpy cam)
Is 13 inches enough to get the valve to open enough for good flow?

The result of the new check valve is that the system seems to lack the Vacuum it needs to get the lights and wiper door to open and close at a normal rate.

With the old Check valve (which is broken and allows air to flow in both directions)... the flow through the valve is very easy, and there is enough vacuum in the system for everything to work correctly.

The problem I have with keeping the old broken valve is that when I shut off the car, the vacuum is lost back our though the intake, and nothing works unless the engine is running... no vacuum is able to stay in the reserve tank.

Does anyone have any info on these check valves and how much vacuum is needed in order for them to work right?

Last edited by genuine1980; May 29, 2013 at 12:25 PM. Reason: e
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Old May 29, 2013 | 01:12 PM
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your issue is the 13" and the lumpy cam, not the valve, might try a vacuum chamber
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Old May 29, 2013 | 01:18 PM
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http://www.corvette-101.com/vacuum.htm#check
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Old May 29, 2013 | 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by oldalaskaman
your issue is the 13" and the lumpy cam, not the valve, might try a vacuum chamber
So you're saying that 13" is not enough to open the valve and allow for a good flow of air through it right?

What is a vacuum chamber?
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Old May 29, 2013 | 01:51 PM
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You have more than enough vacuum. Do you have a NAPA store near you? If so, buy part #CRB 2971 vacuum check valve, and install it between the filter and your OLD check valve. You will now have the split vacuum source to each of your circuits, and the added benefit of a check valve that works.

Think outside the box.
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Old May 29, 2013 | 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Dave J
You have more than enough vacuum. Do you have a NAPA store near you? If so, buy part #CRB 2971 vacuum check valve, and install it between the filter and your OLD check valve. You will now have the split vacuum source to each of your circuits, and the added benefit of a check valve that works.

Think outside the box.
DAMN... great idea.
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Old May 29, 2013 | 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by genuine1980
DAMN... great idea.
that IS a good idea! That box is there for a reason.........so you can think outside of it!

Scott
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Old May 29, 2013 | 03:54 PM
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I have a vacuum pump that is switched on at 13" and off at 15". No problems. I assume you have a leak somewhere. Could be the reason for a carb problem and bad idle quality as well.
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Old May 29, 2013 | 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Belgian1979vette
I have a vacuum pump that is switched on at 13" and off at 15". No problems. I assume you have a leak somewhere. Could be the reason for a carb problem and bad idle quality as well.
I checked for leaks.... and I tested the leak theory for the carb and idle problem by plugging the vacuum system at the intake manifold to eliminate that possibility.... still had the same idle.
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Old May 29, 2013 | 06:30 PM
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There should be no problem blowing though the check valve in one direction and sucking to get airflow from the other direction. But, reverse it and it's works backwards!!! Amazing, huh???
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Old May 29, 2013 | 08:44 PM
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Your engine should have plenty of vacuum to pull through the check valve. If not at idle, raise the rpm to a fast idle and you'll probably see over 17" Hg.

If your headlights are sluggish, your vacuum servo valve is probably on its last legs.
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Old May 29, 2013 | 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by genuine1980
So you're saying that 13" is not enough to open the valve and allow for a good flow of air through it right?

What is a vacuum chamber?
13" is plenty. The headlight system will work down to about 7ish and the check valve itself should open with about 1" or so. Try to find out what's wrong with yours.
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Old May 29, 2013 | 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Ward
13" is plenty. The headlight system will work down to about 7ish and the check valve itself should open with about 1" or so. Try to find out what's wrong with yours.
I agree... the check valve 'should' have a good flow with 1" or so. I am finding that it does not have a good flow... it is very difficult to suck air through it... I tried 2 replacements and both the same. Very difficult to suck air through. As if it is taking a lot more than just 1" to open it.
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Old May 29, 2013 | 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by larrywalk
Your engine should have plenty of vacuum to pull through the check valve. If not at idle, raise the rpm to a fast idle and you'll probably see over 17" Hg.

If your headlights are sluggish, your vacuum servo valve is probably on its last legs.
They are not sluggish when I use the broken check valve in which air flows through it freely. The problem with the broken valve is that air flow freely in both directions and not one direction.

The two OEM replacements I got both allowed no flow in one direction as expected obviously... but in the direction in which air should flow freely, it is very difficult, and little air flows through. It is then when I have the new replacement OEM check valve on that the vacuum system accessories are very sluggish.
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