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It depends on your skill level. For some it's not bad, for others it is way too much for them. It does require the right tools and measuring equipment. If you don't have these, it will be impossible to do the job correctly.
I would advise doing the trailing arm bushings at this time because it is much easier to do the bearings with the trailing arms removed. It will become a while I'm at it though!
There are people on this forum that can do the whole trailing arm rebuild for you, and do it right!
Pay someone to do it. This is one of those jobs better left to the pros.
Not necessarily, but it depends on how mechanically inclined you are. It takes a few special bearing set-up tools that can be rented or borrowed. Also, you need a dial indicator, hand tools, impact wrench(just to make it easier), a torch(to burn out old bushings and free rusted parts), and a torque wrench. If your car is like most, you'll need a sawzall to cut off rusted trailing arm bolts. This is the worst part of the job. If you have most of this equipment and are handy in the shop, you can do it. It is a job, but it's not impossible. I thought it was kind of fun actually.
It's really not hard but does require some special tools. Between the contacts Dad and I have we did his bearings with the only expense being the $40 the bearing kits cost for each side, a replacement spindle and a tube of grease. Dad had a chat with an old neighbour with a press and got the spindles pressed apart. We both knew a machinist with a surface grinder that took a few 1000's off one shim to get the clearance right. I borrowed the dial indicator from work. We used the old spindle as the set-up tool. Sometimes, it's as much who you know as what you know.
He needed a spindle because the bearings on the one side had been spun before Dad bought the car. We think that finally caused the old owner to park it. The opposite side had a U-joint worn so bad the cross had worn through the cup and damaged the 1/2 shaft.
I do this for a living...and I can say..WITHOUT the special tools you might as well start cussing.
Just getting the spindle out WITHOUT damaging it is an ordeal...or can be an ordeal.
Also...making sure that your spindle is correct and not damaged so when you go to index and measure your rotor run-out...you do not find that your spindle flange is bent a few thousands...which makes your rotor run-out ...lets say...WAY OUT!!! I check spindles BEFORE I install them. REGARDLESS if they are new or originals. This is CLEARLY an area of your car where you BETTER KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING!!!
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