I run a paper filter and 10x3 (4?cant recall) open element
very stout stroker and makes 0 difference over a K and N

I never ever noticed a difference running a cold air system have gone both ways. Ill build another box just cause i like the cooler air but Im guessing if you are under 100 it wont do a damn thing SOTP except look pretty.

 

Thread build
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...take-done.html

its thin.. but very wide... and with a good seal you have some ram air there, but with the stock unit it is lost before the filter due to bad seals, but you still do have the fresh cooler air. thus your better times.

you read,,, and you test.. Smart


.....


did you read about the difference in cold air being more dense? did you read the evidence and math i presented? why do you think it would work better with a 40* difference at 100* rather than say 70*? what is your logic?

 

I was just looking at some of the factory air cleaner parts on zip and realized/remembered that the cold air duel snorkel air cleaners from GM were only on 79-82 corvettes and on 78, maybe 79 also only on L-82 cars.

 

 

I don't recall anyone really saying it doesn't work at all... why does everyone want to skip over the important point that's trying to be made.
its the exaggerated claims that you can bolt on 20-30 horsepower with an air cleaner setup..... real world application show 4-8 at most in most cases and newer fuel injected engines with sensors that measure the air temps might benefit more from one than a non computer controlled less efficient Carb engine...
In the vehicles I have tried it I have noticed no noticeable boost in power.... same goes for air filter element unless the old element was really plugged.

Manufacturers of such product use extreme unrealistic scenerios or just plain lie to sell more product.... this is no exception.
Besides .... OEMs put things like exccesive chrome and fins! on cars for many years too why? To sell cars....that's the main goal ... marketing is just as important as function. In fact there are many developments that would increase a vehicles performance and efficiency that aren't used for that same reason... if it sells cars they use it... it it don't they drop it period.

 

The specs say the initial oiling should be good for 50,000 miles.

I'm going to toss mine at about 25,000, and just buy another one. At my rate of driving, that will be about 15 years.

I think I can afford a cleaner every 15 years.

 

Are their any early studies as to why Chevy went with the L88 cold air set up, vs simple element under the hood? We think we know that it was for performance purposes, but is there any documentation on it?

 

Its all marketing B.S. and hype from engineering types who focus on trivia and minutia that make no practical sense in the real world of the classic Corvette. Sorry to sound as those I am labeling people, cause I am happy we can all mod our cars as we want, and believe what we want to believe. I just like to add my side of it to keep it straight for us real people who drive and restore classic cars on and for the street.

 

I see your point I started by just trying to bring a little reality and facts into a thread going off course with opinions that are totally not in line with any REAL WORLD testing results from unbiased people. I guess I caught up it the discussion end of why...
If you don't want any facts messing with your preconceived notions why are you here reading this thread?

 

Augiedoggy, I totally agree with you and was supporting your point. We are on the same page.

 

You have to have additional mods to process/digest "more" air you are sucking in. Without it, it will not make much difference. I ran test on my Navigator with stock paper vs KN and it actually gotten better MPG and better performance with stock paper filter than K&N. I also had a friend who installed K&N CAI on a 350Z and was very very upset. It absolutely did nothing far as performance. So he called K&N and they told him that CAI will perform better if he had headers, tuners, etc.