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350 spark plug removal

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Old Jun 16, 2013 | 11:23 PM
  #21  
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I agree with TimAT that those are good numbers.....even the lowest at 125 is probably because of the same crap on the plug is also on the valves, so that is going to compromise the valve seal. The bottom end to me seems OK....now it's time to look at ignition.
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Old Jun 16, 2013 | 11:30 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by sstocker31
I agree with TimAT that those are good numbers.....even the lowest at 125 is probably because of the same crap on the plug is also on the valves, so that is going to compromise the valve seal.
Well, that's encouraging to think about.
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Old Jun 17, 2013 | 12:12 AM
  #23  
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I would run a set of plugs one step hotter than those, some new wires, new pcv and use a 195° tstat and take some serious long drives with it. the heat and lube will do wonders.

A lot of problems on these engines are years of putzing around in them. Drive them and if the're screwed up, it will surface. Better now than later.
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Old Jun 17, 2013 | 11:47 AM
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We put in plugs one heat range hotter. I couldn't convince hubby to let me test the plug wires, he just wants to see how the engine runs with the new plugs.

In the time I've had it its only had very short drives around the city and I suspect it was the same with the previous owner as well. I'll try and work some longer drives in this summer, but I don't know where we would go, lol.
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Old Jun 17, 2013 | 12:42 PM
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Those compression readings are fine. The lowest cylinder reading is 89% of the highest. I think Chevrolet allows 75%.
Try cap, rotor, wires. Also check that the choke isn't stuck closed.
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Old Jun 17, 2013 | 12:51 PM
  #26  
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Yes, I was expecting much worse because I'm a pessimist at heart. I figured the cylinder that first spark plug came out of would be at or near zero. The choke was comming off properly before the carb rebuild so I assume it should be fine.
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Old Jun 17, 2013 | 03:22 PM
  #27  
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You don't need "new plug wires" to test the condition of one of them. Just pick another plug/wire that will do the job and "reconnect" the wire ends (at plugs and at distributor cap) to 'switch' between the problem plug and another [adjacent] plug. Then run the car for a while and check those two plugs. If the 'switched' plug is now the one that is gummed up, you need to replace the defective wire.

If the same plug is gummed up (and you have installed new plugs), it could be a defective valve seal, piston ring problem, or a damaged head gasket that is allowing some oil to leak directly into the cylinder.

Last edited by 7T1vette; Jun 17, 2013 at 03:25 PM.
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Old Jun 17, 2013 | 04:01 PM
  #28  
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I figured I'd just pull the plug wires one by one and test the resistance of each one. Hubby says that's not reliable because the spark will jump a one inch gap so a wire can have very high resistance and work well, on the other hand it can have low resistance and be arcing and not spark at all. To me it doesn't make sense to put new plugs in and then wait until one or more is fouled to find out there's a bad plug wire(s) and then have to replace (some) plugs yet again.
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Old Jun 17, 2013 | 05:12 PM
  #29  
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For me the resistance test was a waste of time, this wire ohmed out correctly.
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Old Jun 17, 2013 | 05:47 PM
  #30  
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But if it weren't for the damaged boot it would have been okay, right?
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Old Jun 17, 2013 | 08:36 PM
  #31  
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Just mist them with water in the dark and watch these ancient wires give a light show.

And they're so darned expensive too.
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Old Jun 17, 2013 | 11:41 PM
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You really can't check a "high-tension" wire out using an ohmmeter; you need something that utilizes high voltage to check them out properly.

If they are old wires, just change them out. Not worth the trouble and/or time to evaluate the old ones.
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Old Jun 18, 2013 | 12:07 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
You really can't check a "high-tension" wire out using an ohmmeter; you need something that utilizes high voltage to check them out properly.
I see.

Originally Posted by 7T1vette
If they are old wires, just change them out. Not worth the trouble and/or time to evaluate the old ones.
Easy for a lot of Corvette owners to say, but when we've been waiting several months to come up with the money to do some over due dental work I need every penny counts.
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Old Jun 18, 2013 | 12:17 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Priya
Thanks for the suggestions. I don't really want to tell my husband I couldn't do it but I'm pretty wimpish. He'd probably say "There's a lot of quit in that girl.", Lol.
I did mine last night. My knuckles are a bloody mess, literally. Forward two from above, and aft two from below. Some you can get with a ratcheting socket wrench, others I had to use an angling ratchet. You'll want to use your hands to start the plugs in their respective places when replacing. Makes sure also that you set the gap on the plug, should be .045.
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Old Jun 18, 2013 | 12:32 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by 1976wanderlust
I did mine last night. My knuckles are a bloody mess, literally. Forward two from above, and aft two from below. Some you can get with a ratcheting socket wrench, others I had to use an angling ratchet. You'll want to use your hands to start the plugs in their respective places when replacing. Makes sure also that you set the gap on the plug, should be .045.
There was a fair bit of swearing when my husband did it but watching him it was obvious many years of experience replacing plugs on all manner of vehicles helps a great deal. He did some with an angling ratchet, but most were done with a 5/8 long socket with a little wee "extension" that just consisted of a plug to go into the socket and a 9/16" head that he could put a wrench on. He did most of the plugs with this socket on the spark plug and turning the socket with a wrench. I could tell by watching him wrestling with them despite his well thought out approach that it would have made me absolutely nuts to do this. In fact in some situations with him having to pull off/on plug wires with his hand and arm in very unusual positions I don't think I'd have had the strength to do it all. On the passenger side the second plug from the back he had to bend the mounting bracket for the spark plug cable heat shield to get a socket straight on it and then bend it back to reinstall the heat shield.
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Old Jun 18, 2013 | 12:32 PM
  #36  
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Hate to say this, but I would be pulling the intake mani off there, and having a look see at the lifter valley, if it's clean as he oil should be, it is fairly common for some engine guys to hone the heads a tad off angle, to raise compression, but that opens up the bottom of the intake passages to the lifter valley oil mist....gets sucked right into the runner past the gasket.....you can see the bottom of the passage in the head, and if it's all oily wet, and not dry from GASOLINE, that's what happening, almost bet on it, look at the gaskets also, the bottoms are soaked in oil....

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Old Jun 18, 2013 | 12:39 PM
  #37  
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I think we'll see how it goes with the new plugs and if its still a problem we'll look at pulling apart the motor down the road when I may come into some money. Most of the plugs weren't anywhere near as bad as the pictured one, I'd expect they'd all look like that if what you're suggesting was the problem. The plugs that were in there were one heat range cooler than GM recommends as well. I was planning to install vortec heads and TPI on this motor before I ran out of cash but I don't want to do that if the bottom end of the motor isn't in good shape.

Last edited by Priya; Jun 18, 2013 at 12:44 PM.
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Old Jun 18, 2013 | 12:44 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Priya
There was a fair bit of swearing when my husband did it but watching him it was obvious many years of experience replacing plugs on all manner of vehicles helps a great deal. He did some with an angling ratchet, but most were done with a 5/8 long socket with a little wee "extension" that just consisted of a plug to go into the socket and a 9/16" head that he could put a wrench on. He did most of the plugs with this socket on the spark plug and turning the socket with a wrench. I could tell by watching him wrestling with them despite his well thought out approach that it would have made me absolutely nuts to do this. In fact in some situations with him having to pull off/on plug wires with his hand and arm in very unusual positions I don't think I'd have had the strength to do it all. On the passenger side the second plug from the back he had to bend the mounting bracket for the spark plug cable heat shield to get a socket straight on it and then bend it back to reinstall the heat shield.
Sounds about like how I do it.

There's a lot of up/down/left/right/stand on your head nonsense when it comes to pulling the spark plugs on these. Almost enough to make me go LS1... but not quite!
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Old Jun 18, 2013 | 12:59 PM
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This is what most of the other plugs looked like:
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Old Jun 19, 2013 | 09:46 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Priya
We put in plugs one heat range hotter. I couldn't convince hubby to let me test the plug wires, he just wants to see how the engine runs with the new plugs.

In the time I've had it its only had very short drives around the city and I suspect it was the same with the previous owner as well. I'll try and work some longer drives in this summer, but I don't know where we would go, lol.
Do the water trick noonie talked about. Do it somewhere real dark, and let your eyes adjust to the darkness. It's the only way I've ever used to check plug cables.

Then go blow the soot outta that thing!!! Two or three times!!!
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