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I think Monty went with a aluminum drive shaft from Denny's Driveshafts. As for how far the yolk sits in the transmission, I would say leave enough room to pull the other end of the driveshaft out of the pinion yolk u joints. :jester Seriously, I would try to engage the splines as much as possible while leaving enough room to remove the driveshaft (didn't I just say that :blueangel: ).
My latest Summit Racing catalogue arrived today & had a article on fitting an aluminum driveshaft. Only had a quick look at it, but I think it said that it saves 2 1/2 lbs of weight, helping to free up some more HP.
:cheers:
The summit Ad is also claiming this is one way to increase your RWHP
by reducing the parasidic drivetrain losses.
I wonder how much off a diff it would make in RWHP to change all
the shafts to alum.
I also wonder how much RWHP would be gained- especially with an aluminum driveshaft AND halfshafts. I wonder if CHP or any of those mags have ever done tests?
RichP,
On "paper" the 2.5lbs sounds like alot but you will never feel the difference, your wallet certainly will though!!. The closer to the centerline of the crankshaft the LESS effective a reduction in "rotating mass" becomes. I read an article from Tex Powell (Tex Racing) where he talks about what parts he likes to lighten to get the rotating weight vs. what parts are "cost effective to lighten". ...redvetracr
RichP,
On "paper" the 2.5lbs sounds like alot but you will never feel the difference, your wallet certainly will though!!. The closer to the centerline of the crankshaft the LESS effective a reduction in "rotating mass" becomes. I read an article from Tex Powell (Tex Racing) where he talks about what parts he likes to lighten to get the rotating weight vs. what parts are "cost effective to lighten". ...redvetracr
Can someone give me the approximate lenght of a driveshaft from a Turbo 400 Vette...just for kicks I want to call up and get a price on a carbon fiber one vs an aluminum one.