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LS3 ignition problems; no spark

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Old Jul 18, 2013 | 02:03 AM
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Default LS3 ignition problems; no spark

No Spark on my LS swap. I have fuel to the rails, but can't get it to fire up. I think there are a few that have had similar issues. I only have two power options to hook to my harness; power to the cranking source( purple, key in the start/crank), and 12v switched ignition off the braided coil wire to my ECU. Wondering if I have it backwards. The purple runs through my neutral safety and the starter (cranking). The braided is hot with the key on; which I believe to be the ignition source. Are there any other ignition sources for power in the start/crank and run besides the braided coil wire? 70 harness up to LS harness.

Thanks.

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Old Jul 18, 2013 | 08:05 AM
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The braided wire is a resistance wire that drops the voltage at the coil to 9V. That may not work for the LS3.

You need to remove the braided wire and run a new wire from the engine side of the fuse block.
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Old Jul 18, 2013 | 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by DEEPSEA70
No Spark on my LS swap. I have fuel to the rails, but can't get it to fire up. I think there are a few that have had similar issues. I only have two power options to hook to my harness; power to the cranking source( purple, key in the start/crank), and 12v switched ignition off the braided coil wire to my ECU. Wondering if I have it backwards. The purple runs through my neutral safety and the starter (cranking). The braided is hot with the key on; which I believe to be the ignition source. Are there any other ignition sources for power in the start/crank and run besides the braided coil wire? 70 harness up to LS harness.

Thanks.

First have to ask what are you trying to do. Are you trying to power up the ignition coils (ie: high current capability), or are you just needing a switched battery signal to the ECM (during crank and run) to let the ECM know you want to run the engine?
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Old Jul 18, 2013 | 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by 69427
First have to ask what are you trying to do. Are you trying to power up the ignition coils (ie: high current capability), or are you just needing a switched battery signal to the ECM (during crank and run) to let the ECM know you want to run the engine?
Switched signal to run the ECM. Thanks.
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Old Jul 18, 2013 | 12:50 PM
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Has the ECU been reflashed to eliminate or defeat the anti theft? When cranking are you hot in both the start and run position?
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Old Jul 18, 2013 | 01:29 PM
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What he said. The old ignitions were not hot to the run wire with the key in crank position. Voltage was supplied to the coil off the starter solenoids ballast resistor bypass wire. Your LS starter wont have that capability.
Also VATS typically disables the fuel pump. But I've seen some TBSS motors that had ignition disable too.

Originally Posted by MrForce
Has the ECU been reflashed to eliminate or defeat the anti theft? When cranking are you hot in both the start and run position?
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Old Jul 18, 2013 | 03:27 PM
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Its not supposed to have any VATS. I had Current Performance clean it all out. I was reminded from Riggs that the pink on the switch side is probably where I need to run my ECM switched wire to; s canning the braided all together. I think I can either tap into the wire itself, or on the fuse box.


Last edited by DEEPSEA70; Jul 18, 2013 at 03:31 PM. Reason: No VATS
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Old Jul 18, 2013 | 10:03 PM
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I don't know if this will help. The connector designations are from a 2001 Camaro LS1 harness.



Rick B.

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Old Jul 18, 2013 | 11:29 PM
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Originally Posted by DEEPSEA70
Its not supposed to have any VATS. I had Current Performance clean it all out. I was reminded from Riggs that the pink on the switch side is probably where I need to run my ECM switched wire to; s canning the braided all together. I think I can either tap into the wire itself, or on the fuse box.

What do you currently have hooked up to the switched ignition input of the ECM? You indicate that you have fuel to the fuel rails so I assume that the ECM is turning on the pump relay at key-on, or am I incorrect?
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Old Jul 19, 2013 | 12:47 AM
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Right now I have the braided coil wire hooked to the switched 12V for the ECM, but I have since figured based on my wiring diagram and input from others that this is wrong due to the voltage drop and inconsistent input. I am going to rewire the switched 12 V from the ECM to the dash side off the pink ignition switch wire; which should do the trick.

Oh by the way, I own a Glock .45

Thanks

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Old Jul 19, 2013 | 07:22 AM
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Once again, if you have an original ignition switch, the run (coil) wire wont be hot while the starter is turning.
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Old Jul 19, 2013 | 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Garys 68
Once again, if you have an original ignition switch, the run (coil) wire wont be hot while the starter is turning.
On my '71 that wire is hot in crank.
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Old Jul 19, 2013 | 09:51 AM
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Yeah, should have said "might not be hot".
My original 68 switch was not hot in crank. The replacement was.
Originally Posted by zwede
On my '71 that wire is hot in crank.
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Old Jul 23, 2013 | 08:31 PM
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Default Still no spark

I hooked my ECM 12V switched wire to the IGN post in the fuse box since I had power there with the switch. Just a starting point since it was the easiest point to attach. But, it shares power with DIR SIG, Back up lights, and gauges. Would it be wrong to assume I can use the IGN post to power the ECM. My next; and I believe last option, is to connect directly to the pink switch wire. I have fuel pump, and fuel to the rails, and the throttle body clicks when powering up and I think good grounds. Any additional thoughts. Thanks.

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Old Jul 24, 2013 | 08:28 AM
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Did you get it started?
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Old Jul 27, 2013 | 02:19 AM
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Default Power to relays, still no spark at the plugs

I have the 12v switch directly from the pink ignition switch. Crank signal to the Purple start crank has power. It shows power at the relays and fuses. Grounds all look good. Still no spark at the plugs. I'm not sure if maybe my coil packs and injectors my be suspect, or something else wrong with my harness. I might have to send it back to Current Performance if maybe my ECM has problems after the programming. Running out of ideas. Need spark.

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Old Jul 27, 2013 | 07:28 AM
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Have you checked for trouble codes in the PCM?
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Old Sep 3, 2020 | 03:37 PM
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Another thought .... assuming an E38 ECU (I dont know about other ECUs), the clutch failsafe has to be programmed out using HPtuners (in addition to VATS, etc). The E38 wont enable ignition otherwise ... even though its powered (by key "run") and is sensing the engine cranking (from the cam and crank pos sensors).

Regards
eboch

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Old Sep 3, 2020 | 07:24 PM
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This was 7 years ago....
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