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No Spark on my LS swap. I have fuel to the rails, but can't get it to fire up. I think there are a few that have had similar issues. I only have two power options to hook to my harness; power to the cranking source( purple, key in the start/crank), and 12v switched ignition off the braided coil wire to my ECU. Wondering if I have it backwards. The purple runs through my neutral safety and the starter (cranking). The braided is hot with the key on; which I believe to be the ignition source. Are there any other ignition sources for power in the start/crank and run besides the braided coil wire? 70 harness up to LS harness.
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Originally Posted by DEEPSEA70
No Spark on my LS swap. I have fuel to the rails, but can't get it to fire up. I think there are a few that have had similar issues. I only have two power options to hook to my harness; power to the cranking source( purple, key in the start/crank), and 12v switched ignition off the braided coil wire to my ECU. Wondering if I have it backwards. The purple runs through my neutral safety and the starter (cranking). The braided is hot with the key on; which I believe to be the ignition source. Are there any other ignition sources for power in the start/crank and run besides the braided coil wire? 70 harness up to LS harness.
Thanks.
First have to ask what are you trying to do. Are you trying to power up the ignition coils (ie: high current capability), or are you just needing a switched battery signal to the ECM (during crank and run) to let the ECM know you want to run the engine?
First have to ask what are you trying to do. Are you trying to power up the ignition coils (ie: high current capability), or are you just needing a switched battery signal to the ECM (during crank and run) to let the ECM know you want to run the engine?
What he said. The old ignitions were not hot to the run wire with the key in crank position. Voltage was supplied to the coil off the starter solenoids ballast resistor bypass wire. Your LS starter wont have that capability.
Also VATS typically disables the fuel pump. But I've seen some TBSS motors that had ignition disable too.
Originally Posted by MrForce
Has the ECU been reflashed to eliminate or defeat the anti theft? When cranking are you hot in both the start and run position?
Its not supposed to have any VATS. I had Current Performance clean it all out. I was reminded from Riggs that the pink on the switch side is probably where I need to run my ECM switched wire to; s canning the braided all together. I think I can either tap into the wire itself, or on the fuse box.
Last edited by DEEPSEA70; Jul 18, 2013 at 03:31 PM.
Reason: No VATS
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Originally Posted by DEEPSEA70
Its not supposed to have any VATS. I had Current Performance clean it all out. I was reminded from Riggs that the pink on the switch side is probably where I need to run my ECM switched wire to; s canning the braided all together. I think I can either tap into the wire itself, or on the fuse box.
What do you currently have hooked up to the switched ignition input of the ECM? You indicate that you have fuel to the fuel rails so I assume that the ECM is turning on the pump relay at key-on, or am I incorrect?
Right now I have the braided coil wire hooked to the switched 12V for the ECM, but I have since figured based on my wiring diagram and input from others that this is wrong due to the voltage drop and inconsistent input. I am going to rewire the switched 12 V from the ECM to the dash side off the pink ignition switch wire; which should do the trick.
I hooked my ECM 12V switched wire to the IGN post in the fuse box since I had power there with the switch. Just a starting point since it was the easiest point to attach. But, it shares power with DIR SIG, Back up lights, and gauges. Would it be wrong to assume I can use the IGN post to power the ECM. My next; and I believe last option, is to connect directly to the pink switch wire. I have fuel pump, and fuel to the rails, and the throttle body clicks when powering up and I think good grounds. Any additional thoughts. Thanks.
I have the 12v switch directly from the pink ignition switch. Crank signal to the Purple start crank has power. It shows power at the relays and fuses. Grounds all look good. Still no spark at the plugs. I'm not sure if maybe my coil packs and injectors my be suspect, or something else wrong with my harness. I might have to send it back to Current Performance if maybe my ECM has problems after the programming. Running out of ideas. Need spark.
Another thought .... assuming an E38 ECU (I dont know about other ECUs), the clutch failsafe has to be programmed out using HPtuners (in addition to VATS, etc). The E38 wont enable ignition otherwise ... even though its powered (by key "run") and is sensing the engine cranking (from the cam and crank pos sensors).