Hi all. I have a '76 that I'm tinkering with. Since I've owned it (about a year) it's had about 3" of slop in the steering. After searching posts, I figured it was probably a steering box rebuild that I needed. But, while chasing a vacuum leak, my son turned the steering wheel and I noticed the slip was at coupling. I'm not a gear head, just learning; but does that mean I can just replace the coupling? Thanks All
Dos

 

The rag coupler will often go bad causing excessive play.

 

Thanks! It does look like 9 hells.

 

Since I just replaced mine, I happen to know that Corvette Central has a repair kit ( assuming your flanges are OK) for about $12 or $13.

 

I replaced one once, a number of years ago. It's not all that hard to do, the "biggest tool in the toolbox" for this job is a little patience.

 

Thanks guys, going to change this weekend.

 

Replacing the fiber disc is a very viable option, if the bolts, etc. are still in servicible condition. Those two bolts are "different", so mark them to get them reinstalled properly.

To remove the coupling from either shaft, you have to COMPLETELY REMOVE the 'squeeze' bolts from the assembly. These bolts are 'captured' bolts and the coupling will not disengage unless those bolts are removed from it.

Remove the front two (of 3) bolts from the frame mounting of the steering box and loosen the third. This will allow you to tilt the box forward to gain clearance necessary to remove/reinstall the coupler. Also, DO NOT put much force on the end of the steering column pushing up, into the column. This column is a crush-member for minimizing damage in a frontal collision. You can easily collapse that column, if you are not careful with what force you are exerting on it.

Lastly, the original fiber disc had metallic wires throughout it, so that there was an electrical path for (-) ground to the horn contact. The replacement discs may (or may not) have this metallic component imbedded into the fiber. If you find that it is not electrically conductive, you can get a strip of desoldering braid from Radio Shack or a small grounding braid from an auto parts store and connect it to both sides of that flex coupling so that the grounding circuit remains complete and allows the horn to work.

Good luck!

 

If you can find an original equipment flexible coupling I would recommend it (even if it costs $100) over the rebuild kits for several reasons.
1. Rebuild kits have a much "softer" rubber replacement disc. Your on-center feel will not be as precise with the replacement part.
2. Nearly all rebuild kits come with common bolts to attach the flex coupling to the steering column flange. Use your original bolts that have shoulders so that you are attaching parts metal to metal and not just squeezing the rubber disc.
3. You are correct that rebuild kits do not provide for an electrical ground from one quadrant of the flex coupling to the next. Your 1976 steering column has a die cast column head, so there are most likely multiple electrical ground paths (besides through the steering column down to the steering gear) so that your horn will blow correctly. (Later steering columns started to use many more plastic parts so electrical grounding down through the steering column steering shaft is more critical.) Just check your horn operation. I can just imagine some people going months without blowing their horn after replacing their flex coupling. Then finding out that their horn doesn't work. They are going to be very lucky to figure out that the horn problem was caused by service work months in the past.
3. The "pinch" bolts that connect the flex coupling to the gear input shaft, and the second exact same "pinch" bolt that connects the cast iron flange to the steering column steering shaft must be completely removed in order for the flange(s) to slide off of their respective shafts.
One last suggestion, you can either tip the steering gear (as mentioned above) or you can disconnect the steering column from the dash structure and pull it back into the driver compartment a couple inches to gain clearance to disconnect the flexible coupling.
Jim

 

Great Stuff, Thanks Jim!

 

The engine is currently out of my 1980, pretty much ready to go back in except for the engine bay tasks, like replacing the rag joint. I already purchased a repair kit, but would be willing to buy a better kit if I could find one. Would you have a vendor? Is the Dr. Rebuild's kit original material?
Is this original?
https://www.paragoncorvette.com/p-35...epair-kit.aspx

 

Forget that old crappy rag joint and replace it with a universal joint

I think that mine is from "Flaming River" but i bought it at Summit Racing

 

What are the benefits of a u joint over the rag joint? I have my steering box out at the moment. how is the u joint coupler installed ?

 

Street Rodders have been using universal joints for ages, I have no problem using one if it's a direct replacement. Do you know the diameter and how many splines are on the shafts?

 

Check the price on Summit Racing. I got mine a few years ago for $44 or something. The steering column end is splined and so is the steering box. They have the exact one for C-3 Vettes. you have to install it on the column and then put on the steering box. Of course you have have everything from the steering wheel to the tires straight when you install it.

http://www.flamingriver.com/index.ph...ts/c0005/s0011