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I have 1/4 slop in the steering wheel before the wheels move. While driving the car feels OK unless the road gets rough then it wanders.
I tried the in car adjustment per jimsheas papers but I had to remove the steering box because my headers wouldn't allow me the loosen the sheet metal lock ring.
Now that I have the box on the bench there doesn't seem to be any play between the input shaft and pitman arm. Which may be because there is no load on it.
What is the procedure for adjusting the steering box out of the car?
Wether or not it's the source of your problem, if you have the box out of the car, I'd recommend rebuilding it. It's a satisfying project that can be done in an afternoon. Rebuild kits are about $60 IIRC, and the only special tools you need are bushing drivers (less than $20 for a decent set at HF) and an inch-lb torque wrench.
Jim Shea's info is excellent. I also used this thread as a resource:
I finally got the large sheet metal lock nut off the input adjuster but the adjuster will not turn. I am soaking it in PB blaster over night. Any ideas on how to remove it? Heat, Impact wrench ?
The worm bearing adjuster is not to be touched in the field AFAIK, and even the lash adjuster gets misadjusted more often than not.
Get the box overhauled and be done with it.
From the papers I've read and the service manual is says to adjust the worm gear than the lash. My worm gear adjuster will not move even with the lock but removed. My plan is to get the steering box rebuilt by Bairs this winter when I pull the engine but id like to drive my vette in the dream cruise this month. Given the time frame I don't think I'd be ready if I sent it out now.
So I am not suppose to do any adjustments to the worm adjuster?
If you weren't supposed to adjust the 'wear' out of the steering box, as years pas by, GM would not have spent the money to put an [accessible] adjuster nut on the box. Yes. You can adjust that screw to reduce the "slop" in the steering system, IF:
1. that 'slop' is actually in the steering box and NOT in the other steering components;
2. you learn how to properly make that adjustment;
3. you test the vehicle's steering performance when making that adjustment and leave it in an optimum position.
If you just "go at it with a wrench and screwdriver" then, NO, you shouldn't be messing with it.
Go with a Borgeson box,one of the best upgrades for a C3 Vette..No more control valve and leaky hoses under the car..Steers a lot quicker!!
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Have you looked at the ragjoint (flex coupling between the steering column and the steering box)? 1/4 rotation of the steering wheel would be very unlikely from the steering box only.
After removing the steering box I did get the worm gear adjustment nut loose and followed Jim shea s steering paper to adjust the steering box. The steering is much better. The car still feels loose on bumpy roads. My future plans are to rebuild both front and rear suspension s and the steering assembly. My rag joint look to be in good condition.
I was going to replace the rag joint while I had it apart buy I've read a lot of posts where they say the new rag joints are low quality. This winter I am installing a new engine and while the engine is out I am going to send my steering box off to bairs to be rebuilt. A side note the tires I have are about 15 years old. I am replacing the current eagle st with a new set of nitto 555. 255-45/17 which I think will help my handeling somewhat. Those old eagles seem to break loose very easy while accelerating and in turns. Back of car feels like its going to come around if I don't get off the gas in turns.