Nice. Thanks for sharing.

 

Radiator is in, and everything is now hooked up less the coolant hoses and the completion of the electrical system:

 

That is pretty sweet , you are killing me lol . I ..........need ......... suupercharger

 

Would be nice to put one more tube on that to pull fresh air from in the fender/outside and not in the hot engine compartment. But very nice!!

 

Actually, we've been talking about doing exactly that. Once we get the car on the road, we're going to take a look at the "phase 2" refinement upgrades, which will include a cold air inlet system pulling cool air from the inside fender area.

Lars

 

It would be cool to do this experiment: Leave it as it is and drive it for a couple hours on the road. Put it on the dyno, keep the hood closed as much as possible and do some pulls with the 250 - 300 + degree air right next to the headers going in. Then do the same thing with air from the outside. Just to show there is a difference. Nice set up to get some comparative dynos for that.

 

If you are too busy and need someone to drive it around for a couple of hours before doing the pull I would be happy to volunteer my services

 

That's certainly a generous offer, but I wouldn't want anyone to be inconvenienced by my need for a test driver...

Here's the latest progress on electrical control system: Since there's no good space for mounting an MSD, fuel pump relay, accessory fuse box, and circuit breaker in the engine compartment of a C3, I have fabricated a simple electrical panel that bolts in place right on the passenger side inner fender well. This panel mounts the MSD, the boost retard switch, the fuel pump relay, the accessory fuse block, and the accessory circuit breaker for all this. This removable panel controls the fuel pump through the oil pressure switch, and the ignition system, all without any draw on the stock fuseblock other than an "IGN" trip wire through the new fuseblock relay. Nothing is spliced into the stock wire harness, and this panel takes care of all electrical requirements for the current and future accessories. It will all be hooked up with quick disconnects, so the entire panel can be removed and serviced with 3 screws:




Lars

 

Don't forget the little seal washer under the aircleaners wingnut.

 

Oh, crap..!! I almost forgot that.!! That would not only allow major debris to enter the engine, but it would result in a MASSIVE boost leak, with associate HUGE drop in power. I'm so glad you caught that - you can, obviously, see in the above photos that the washer is missing...

With that fixed, I now also have the electrical system panel mounted. It actually works, and the engine fired up on the first crank, thanks to the wingnut seal washer:

 

With the additional electronics, what output is the alternator rated at?

 

The additional electronics are the fuel pump (with its control systems) and the MSD ignition. The pump runs at 6 amps, and the MSD draws less than 1 amp per 1000 rpm. That puts the new panel draw at about 12 amps, so the stock alternator is likely to handle it. The primary purpose of the panel is to provide clean, circuit-protected ignition-triggered power and battery power without the need to hack into the stock wiring system, and to get all the control components mounted in a single accessible location.

Lars

 

OK, so all that is needed is a stock alternator to go with the "LSC" - LarsSuperCharger kit.

 

That's the way the ad will read...

 

You could always mount a second alternator

A serious question about the fuel pressure. I understand the need for having the input fuel pressure to be higher than the boost pressure but won't this cause the float valves to leak? Is there a margin on these or can you raise the sealing pressure by altering the float level?

 

Lars ,, any chance you can post up a video of this thing on the road once it is done ?

 

So i'm reading the MSD box is setup for max boost retard from 34* mechanical. Curious what retard/advance u have at full boost/rpm?

Also when do u see/have boost come on? 1000rpm? 1500rpm?

One more question, how's that 4-speed muncie? Any mods for that kind'a power?

cardo0

 

On a blow-through application, the float bowl is pressurized. The needle/seat sees differential pressure between the fuel inlet and the pressure in the float bowl. So if the fuel pressure is 7 psi, and the float bowl is pressurized at 7 psi, the needle/seat sees -0- pressure. The needle/seat only "sees" the pressure differential between inlet pressure and pressure above the seat. So even though the fuel pump is putting out 15 psi under 8 pounds of boost, the needle/seat only "sees" 7 psi.


I was wondering the same thing, but I was too chicken to stand right by the harmonic balancer at 6000 rpm and 8.5 pounds of boost with a timing light... All I know is that we tried all kinds of different combinations with mechanical total timing and boost retard positions, and this "max retard" position with 34 total produced best power and torque under all conditions.

The blower is actually producing boost at idle, and it's blowing off through the blowoff valve - the blowoff is about like a hairdryer on the "hi" setting with the engine just idling. This thing instantly pressurizes the manifold the moment you go to WOT and force the blowoff valve to close. It's just a couple of pounds at low rpm, and then it comes on very quickly.

The 4-speed Muncie is fine. It's in the basement, and does just fine in the dark. I put a Tremec 5-speed in the car...

Lars

 

Wow, dumping boost at idle. How does the blowoff valve change settings to prevent overboost at high rpm? Sounds like your running boost for a "normalized" pressure like GA piston aircraft turbo.

Okay a 5 speed Tremec sounds like a better match for the vortec type blowers. I read the vortec blowers like to stay in the hi rpm and not a good match for something like a 3 speed auto. But if running "normalized" shouldn't be much problem. Whatch'a think lars, could u run an auto behind a vortec blower? Can u normalize a blower?

cardo0

 

my '78 was infested with some mean lookin' solid black spiders when i bought it. nests and all!

i power washed every inch of the underside and used enough cy-kick that i probably should have called in hazmat