fuel pump push rod questions
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,413
Likes: 59
From: Emerald Isle NC
Reelav8r,
My motor isn't finished yet. Stupid stuff keeps gettin' in the way! Like weddings (not mine), Carlisle, trips out west (OK/TX/LA), and on and on. Plus, my bud helping me on the build has moved several hours away, and can only get out here every other week. I hope to get it to the dyno and in the car before I die.
Carter
My motor isn't finished yet. Stupid stuff keeps gettin' in the way! Like weddings (not mine), Carlisle, trips out west (OK/TX/LA), and on and on. Plus, my bud helping me on the build has moved several hours away, and can only get out here every other week. I hope to get it to the dyno and in the car before I die.
Carter
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,284
Likes: 1,171
From: Hermosa
Ok, so no long term results that I can find. Guess I'll be a guinea pig.
Cuisinartvette has a few hundred hard miles on his (7k + rpm) and no wear at all. At least that's better than the bronze tip. This fuel pump failure may have saved my bacon down the road as I had not heard of them mushrooming before this. My main concern was the cam.
Cuisinartvette has a few hundred hard miles on his (7k + rpm) and no wear at all. At least that's better than the bronze tip. This fuel pump failure may have saved my bacon down the road as I had not heard of them mushrooming before this. My main concern was the cam.
Last edited by REELAV8R; Aug 28, 2013 at 11:30 AM.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,284
Likes: 1,171
From: Hermosa
maybe a simple phone call to Lunati would clear it up
Seriously though , you're right it doesn't hurt to ask the manufacturer of the components involved. I just keep in mind they don't give a hoot what the out come of their component is or how much trouble and time it costs me as long as it's out side the scope of their warranty.I already did call Lunati. Got the answer from them. Also called Howards today. The tech I talked to claimed to have the carbon polymer push rod in his car and had been running it for 10,000+ miles.
Last edited by REELAV8R; Aug 28, 2013 at 01:46 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
I now run lighter weight oil and keep the pressure to @ 70 psi max hot and I keep a spare in my tool box.
Last edited by gkull; Aug 28, 2013 at 03:22 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 8,351
Likes: 75
From: Tampa Bay FL
When I was preparing to install my Comp Retro Roller cam kit, I was informed that the cam is iron; not steel. Therefore, I did not have to go with a special distributor gear or fuel pump pushrod. I had purchased both and dropped nearly $150.
I did install a new fuel pump pushrod as my solid steel OEM unit had some scarring on the tip; it was original from 1980. The replacement is hollow with an iron tip/insert.
I would verify the roller cam you installed requires a special bronze tip pushrod. I would have installed my bronze tipped pushrod and plastic dizzy gear had I not gotten the advice from a forum member. I just assumed the cam was steel like most roller cams.
I did install a new fuel pump pushrod as my solid steel OEM unit had some scarring on the tip; it was original from 1980. The replacement is hollow with an iron tip/insert.
I would verify the roller cam you installed requires a special bronze tip pushrod. I would have installed my bronze tipped pushrod and plastic dizzy gear had I not gotten the advice from a forum member. I just assumed the cam was steel like most roller cams.
Had a 1976 L-82, 4-sp
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 5,338
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From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
That's not pretty! How's the new one holding up?
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Verdad Gallardo
Had a 1976 L-82, 4-sp
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 5,338
Likes: 1,213
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
TedH, I went with the poly type because it will work with any type of cam material, so it's advertised. I would like to go with a solid roller billet cam some time in the future so now I won't need to purchase these parts again provided they hold up.
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,284
Likes: 1,171
From: Hermosa
When I was preparing to install my Comp Retro Roller cam kit, I was informed that the cam is iron; not steel. Therefore, I did not have to go with a special distributor gear or fuel pump pushrod.
Had a 1976 L-82, 4-sp
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 5,338
Likes: 1,213
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
That sounds somewhat reassuring considering the mileage is over 5000. Have you had the dist'r out and taken a good look at the gear?
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
Comp Cams claimed that my high oil pressure was the problem. I countered that it was them that screwed me and delivered a non-sleeved cam that I had ordered.
If you look at the gear picture..... It might have been a bit low in it's contact to the cam gear. So along with lighter oil weight I also shimmed the dizzy higher on the manifold to ensure full contact gear meshing. Or it could have had a flaw when it was molded. I think it had 2-3 months on it when it broke.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 8,351
Likes: 75
From: Tampa Bay FL
IMO, the manufacturers and sellers of these kits need to get their collective stories straight on the parts that are required; not just recommended (ie. composite gear recommended to avoid issues if cast iron roller gets replaced with steel roller sometime in future...).
I installed the Comp steel tip pushrod #4616 for use with my cast iron retro roller cam.
Last edited by TedH; Aug 29, 2013 at 10:10 AM.
1st Gear
Joined: Jan 2021
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Why are you guys saying poly over cast iron? There IS a third option.
Cast is harder than steel. Plastic is softer than steel. Bronze is ALSO softer than steel. I have been running my bronze gear on my steel billet roller cam for 12 years. Still running and timing is smooth! ;-) There are other ways to insure that gear lasts longer. If you're block is .005 decked or tighter shim the height and make sure the pump shaft isn't binding. Don't run herky jerky gear drives. They beat valvetrain components to death, make sure.you timing chain is good & tight and it's not loading and unloading. Running a cam button and controlling the forward movement of the camshaft? They can move a LOT. THERE'S 50-80LBS (POSSIBLY) pushing that cam forward. As rpm changed, timing changes, oil pressure changed, heavy braking... all slopping that cam back and fourth.
I am running the carbon polymer in our 13:1 384.57 circle track engine.... going to find out in April if it'll hold ;-)
I have the hollow bronze tipped light rod for the old engine.... it's wear seems very strange. It was on one side of the tip. Thinking the fuel pump end by the marks.. guess well find out PDQ of it's worth the 45.00. At 7200 rpm 2 nights a week for the entire summer;-)
I am running the carbon polymer in our 13:1 384.57 circle track engine.... going to find out in April if it'll hold ;-)
I have the hollow bronze tipped light rod for the old engine.... it's wear seems very strange. It was on one side of the tip. Thinking the fuel pump end by the marks.. guess well find out PDQ of it's worth the 45.00. At 7200 rpm 2 nights a week for the entire summer;-)
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5,031
Likes: 1,121
From: North tonawanda NY
Still kinda valid info though for those using the search function to research for their answers like many do.. I belong to about 7 different forums and this is one is different than most in this regard... In many forums you see people scolding others to use the search function rather than starting new threads on old topics. Also the "related topic" threads seem to promote rehashing old threads...
It also would be cool if anyone had any updates from long term use with these composite rods since I just bought the bronze one im now apprehensive about using since I stumbled on this.
It also would be cool if anyone had any updates from long term use with these composite rods since I just bought the bronze one im now apprehensive about using since I stumbled on this.
Last edited by augiedoggy; Jan 20, 2021 at 06:30 PM.
Had a 1976 L-82, 4-sp
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 5,338
Likes: 1,213
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
Still kinda valid info though for those using the search function to research for their answers like many do.. I belong to about 7 different forums and this is one is different than most in this regard... In many forums you see people scolding others to use the search function rather than starting new threads on old topics. Also the "related topic" threads seem to promote rehashing old threads...
It also would be cool if anyone had any updates from long term use with these composite rods since I just bought the bronze one im now apprehensive about using since I stumbled on this.
It also would be cool if anyone had any updates from long term use with these composite rods since I just bought the bronze one im now apprehensive about using since I stumbled on this.
Dr. Detroit
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 10,097
Likes: 4,027
From: New Braunfels Texas
A high volume sbc pump adds 3 horsepower drag on any distributor gear over a std volume, just FYI. We back to back tested this in 07' on Solid Roller 383 that made 560 horsepower.
Jebby
Jebby
Had a 1976 L-82, 4-sp
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 5,338
Likes: 1,213
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
Just for info, I have a Melling oil pump, hv/hp, but I have used the low pressure spring since I installed the pump 25 years ago. No visible wear on the composite dist'r gear. I haven't seen my composite fuel pump rod in a long, long time.