Replace long brake line
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,189
Likes: 111
From: Tolland CT
Replace long brake line
Has anybody changed the long brake line, front to rear, without lifting the body? I'm looking for details as to get the old one out, new one installed. I managed to get the rear fitting clear of the frame, hanging under the car. Question is how to get the front fitting under the frame so I may pull it through the crossmember. This is a MT car, crossmember is not removeable. I don't see how I could pull the line through the engine comparment.
Does the steering box need to come out or be moved to get enough space? Clutch arm as well?
Any tips for installing the new one?
Does the steering box need to come out or be moved to get enough space? Clutch arm as well?
Any tips for installing the new one?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,264
Likes: 3
From: Vero Beach FL
I did mine on my 71 with the body on. Mine is a A/T but if I remember I had some difficulty with the insulation that is between the body and the frame just behind the front wheel well getting in the way. I used a open end wrench to remove the clips that hold the line to the frame. The hardest part was getting the rear part snaked up and through the rear of the frame (although nothing like the fuel line on the other side). You may have to slightly bend a straighten the line as you feed it through.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,189
Likes: 111
From: Tolland CT
I did mine on my 71 with the body on. Mine is a A/T but if I remember I had some difficulty with the insulation that is between the body and the frame just behind the front wheel well getting in the way. I used a open end wrench to remove the clips that hold the line to the frame. The hardest part was getting the rear part snaked up and through the rear of the frame (although nothing like the fuel line on the other side). You may have to slightly bend a straighten the line as you feed it through.
Did you have to remove the steering box to gain enough room to loop the line up and over the frame?
I don't know how the line is routed on an AT car. Mine (MT) has the line passing through the crossmember. It looks like I need to somehow get both ends of the line under the frame so I may pull it through. Right now, the steering box is getting in the way.
BTW: The engine is still installed. I am replacing the line while doing some other maintenance. I replaced this line years ago when I had th body off. Replaced with a steel line which is now rusting in a few places. I have a SS replacement ready to install.
If this project begins to look undoable, I could reconnect the existing line, brush off the rust and paint. Rather not....
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,264
Likes: 3
From: Vero Beach FL
Mine is a small block and I used mild steel which bends some. The line does travel through the trans crossmember and I did drop that side down to get it through. I know I did not have to remove anything else but as I said mine is a small block. Hopefully someone with a BB manual will chime in and offer better direction. 
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,172
Likes: 4,250
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi BB,
I replaced a ss line with a bundy steel line when I was getting ready to have my car judged.
I had put the ss lines on when the body was off the frame.
I had to seriously bend the ss line to get it off but learned a few lessons for when I put the bundy steel line on.
The bundy steel is so much more flexible that it's easier, (not easy), to bend it and then get it back in shape when it's in place.
Are you SURE your steel line needs to be replaced already?
Regards,
Alan
I replaced a ss line with a bundy steel line when I was getting ready to have my car judged.
I had put the ss lines on when the body was off the frame.
I had to seriously bend the ss line to get it off but learned a few lessons for when I put the bundy steel line on.
The bundy steel is so much more flexible that it's easier, (not easy), to bend it and then get it back in shape when it's in place.
Are you SURE your steel line needs to be replaced already?
Regards,
Alan
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,753
From: Charlotte NC
When I do them.... I run the line from the front to the rear...through the crossmember. YES...it is a bit fun...so the higher you can get it off the ground the better.
Then I pull the line further back so I then can go forward with the line and get it close to the point of installation. This is so I can then install the brass junction block to the end of the line and get it positioned BEFORE I clip it in place. The reason being. UNLESS you have a modified crow-foot flare wrench ( which I have made one just for this spot)...trying to tighten this connection is a ROYAL PITA. Then the "fun" is getting the clips and bolts in place. Start to finish....1 1/2 to 2 hours...figuring some problems will arise.
DUB
Then I pull the line further back so I then can go forward with the line and get it close to the point of installation. This is so I can then install the brass junction block to the end of the line and get it positioned BEFORE I clip it in place. The reason being. UNLESS you have a modified crow-foot flare wrench ( which I have made one just for this spot)...trying to tighten this connection is a ROYAL PITA. Then the "fun" is getting the clips and bolts in place. Start to finish....1 1/2 to 2 hours...figuring some problems will arise.
DUB
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,189
Likes: 111
From: Tolland CT
Hi BB,
I replaced a ss line with a bundy steel line when I was getting ready to have my car judged.
I had put the ss lines on when the body was off the frame.
I had to seriously bend the ss line to get it off but learned a few lessons for when I put the bundy steel line on.
The bundy steel is so much more flexible that it's easier, (not easy), to bend it and then get it back in shape when it's in place.
Are you SURE your steel line needs to be replaced already?
Regards,
Alan
I replaced a ss line with a bundy steel line when I was getting ready to have my car judged.
I had put the ss lines on when the body was off the frame.
I had to seriously bend the ss line to get it off but learned a few lessons for when I put the bundy steel line on.
The bundy steel is so much more flexible that it's easier, (not easy), to bend it and then get it back in shape when it's in place.
Are you SURE your steel line needs to be replaced already?
Regards,
Alan
When I do them.... I run the line from the front to the rear...through the crossmember. YES...it is a bit fun...so the higher you can get it off the ground the better.
Then I pull the line further back so I then can go forward with the line and get it close to the point of installation. This is so I can then install the brass junction block to the end of the line and get it positioned BEFORE I clip it in place. The reason being. UNLESS you have a modified crow-foot flare wrench ( which I have made one just for this spot)...trying to tighten this connection is a ROYAL PITA. Then the "fun" is getting the clips and bolts in place. Start to finish....1 1/2 to 2 hours...figuring some problems will arise. Did you remove the old line by pulling up through the engine compartment or by bending the lines to go down under the frame, out the bottom?
DUB
Then I pull the line further back so I then can go forward with the line and get it close to the point of installation. This is so I can then install the brass junction block to the end of the line and get it positioned BEFORE I clip it in place. The reason being. UNLESS you have a modified crow-foot flare wrench ( which I have made one just for this spot)...trying to tighten this connection is a ROYAL PITA. Then the "fun" is getting the clips and bolts in place. Start to finish....1 1/2 to 2 hours...figuring some problems will arise. Did you remove the old line by pulling up through the engine compartment or by bending the lines to go down under the frame, out the bottom?
DUB
While looking at removal of the old line, I have questions as to how to thread the line. Did you remove the line by pulling it up through the engine compartment or did you bend the line to get it out through the bottom? I have the rear end of the line free, hanging below the frame right now.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,264
Likes: 3
From: Vero Beach FL
When I do them.... I run the line from the front to the rear...through the crossmember. YES...it is a bit fun...so the higher you can get it off the ground the better.
Then I pull the line further back so I then can go forward with the line and get it close to the point of installation. This is so I can then install the brass junction block to the end of the line and get it positioned BEFORE I clip it in place. The reason being. UNLESS you have a modified crow-foot flare wrench ( which I have made one just for this spot)...trying to tighten this connection is a ROYAL PITA. Then the "fun" is getting the clips and bolts in place. Start to finish....1 1/2 to 2 hours...figuring some problems will arise.
DUB
Then I pull the line further back so I then can go forward with the line and get it close to the point of installation. This is so I can then install the brass junction block to the end of the line and get it positioned BEFORE I clip it in place. The reason being. UNLESS you have a modified crow-foot flare wrench ( which I have made one just for this spot)...trying to tighten this connection is a ROYAL PITA. Then the "fun" is getting the clips and bolts in place. Start to finish....1 1/2 to 2 hours...figuring some problems will arise.
DUB
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Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,753
From: Charlotte NC
The line is removed from under the car. It is a "back and forth" procedure. But I take them out from under the car and also install them the same way. AND YES>>>> sometimes I have to put a slight curve in the line to aid this procedure...but not such a severe curve that it can not easily be put back into shape. DO NOT expect to install it as if the body were off the frame. But with slight bends...it will work and when I get done...you can not tell.
DUB
DUB
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,302
Likes: 1,583
From: Western NY
Back in the mid 90s, I replaced all the brake lines/hoses on a '79 coupe that my wife used to own. I bought a complete kit from Stainless Steel Brakes, and as I recall, the job wasn't THAT big a deal, even with the body on the frame.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,189
Likes: 111
From: Tolland CT
Thanks all for the input, very helpful.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,302
Likes: 1,583
From: Western NY
Changing out the long brake line is a part of a much larger project which began with just replacing some seals in the rear brake calipers. This project has grown exponentially, another story. I'm looking for as much info as I can gather so I don't waste any more time or money. Work on a game plan to get this finished.
Thanks all for the input, very helpful.
Thanks all for the input, very helpful.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,189
Likes: 111
From: Tolland CT
I got the old line out, had to bend the far end (rear end of the line) a bit to pull it through the crossmember. So far it looks like the worst will be bending parts of the new line to pass through the crossmember, get the far end back into position for the brass junction block.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,189
Likes: 111
From: Tolland CT
FWIW: I finished installation of the long brake line, stainless, and the rear lines, also stainless. It wasn't as difficult as is appeared, had to snake the line rearward far enough so the front end of the line was a bit behind the clutch arm. Pulled the front of the line up, foward, past the clutch arm and steering box. I had to make some small bends after getting the line in place so it would sit flush with the frame.
So far. no leaks. I think the key was making small corrective bends so the fittings lined up well with the brass blocks, fittings spun into place without having to pull on the line. Made as sure as I could the lines were seating square with the brass blocks before tightening. The tip offered by a previous poster, attach the line to the brass junction block and tighten before installing the clip was very helpful. I replaced the rear brass junction blocks as well to encourage a good seal.
This should be the last time the lines will be replaced, wish I had used stainless when the body was off. Fuel lines are another matter, a job for another day.
So far. no leaks. I think the key was making small corrective bends so the fittings lined up well with the brass blocks, fittings spun into place without having to pull on the line. Made as sure as I could the lines were seating square with the brass blocks before tightening. The tip offered by a previous poster, attach the line to the brass junction block and tighten before installing the clip was very helpful. I replaced the rear brass junction blocks as well to encourage a good seal.
This should be the last time the lines will be replaced, wish I had used stainless when the body was off. Fuel lines are another matter, a job for another day.