Going for Three...
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 8,351
Likes: 75
From: Tampa Bay FL
Going for Three...
My engine is still leaking at rear. Swapped out what turned out to be a warped passenger valve cover for a heavier Chevrolet Performance cover that I had on the shelf and that slowed the leaking at rear of the engine but it still drips.
Going to pull the Transdapt pan and old pan gasket and rear main seal to install:
Milodon oil pan (30701)
Fel-Pro oil pan seal
Fel-Pro Rear Main seal
One of these (or all) should help with the persistent leak I have.
A while I am at it part is a mellings stock volume oil pump with pickup (to suit the roller cam).
I am hopeful I will exorcise this demon once and for all. I will be cleaning the underside of the car once this is resolved. It is covered with oil from the leak.
Going to pull the Transdapt pan and old pan gasket and rear main seal to install:
Milodon oil pan (30701)
Fel-Pro oil pan seal
Fel-Pro Rear Main seal
One of these (or all) should help with the persistent leak I have.
A while I am at it part is a mellings stock volume oil pump with pickup (to suit the roller cam).
I am hopeful I will exorcise this demon once and for all. I will be cleaning the underside of the car once this is resolved. It is covered with oil from the leak.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 8,351
Likes: 75
From: Tampa Bay FL
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,123
Likes: 433
From: Gladstone MO
C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
IS your oil pan chrome by any chance? I've seen them (chrome oil pans) not hold a gasket or seal because the chrome was too slick. Roughed them up with some 80 grit paper and no more leak.
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Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 8,351
Likes: 75
From: Tampa Bay FL
It is black painted steel. One thing I found strange was that I had to torque the rail bolts down before it would sit on the gasket; there was about a 1/2" gap between the gasket where it sat on the rails and where the pan sat (engine was upside down on the engine stand). I guessed this was due to the fat seal in front or that the two seals have to press into both the timing cover and rear main cap.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,753
From: Charlotte NC
It is black painted steel. One thing I found strange was that I had to torque the rail bolts down before it would sit on the gasket; there was about a 1/2" gap between the gasket where it sat on the rails and where the pan sat (engine was upside down on the engine stand). I guessed this was due to the fat seal in front or that the two seals have to press into both the timing cover and rear main cap.
If you have not tried it...I use the UV dye to isolate any leaks so I can see what it going on with a black light. A little dye goes a long way when you have clean oil.
DUB
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,123
Likes: 433
From: Gladstone MO
C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
I am concerned about that also. You should not have to pull the pan down to get ti to seal. The pan should have contacted the gaskets with almost no gap. Possible oil pump pick up screen interference...or too low...contacting the bottom of the pan.
If you have not tried it...I use the UV dye to isolate any leaks so I can see what it going on with a black light. A little dye goes a long way when you have clean oil.
DUB
If you have not tried it...I use the UV dye to isolate any leaks so I can see what it going on with a black light. A little dye goes a long way when you have clean oil.
DUB
The pan should set on the gasket all the way around, with it just a little bit off on the ends where it's held off by the uncompressed rubber gaskets. And even with that, 1/4 inch is a lot.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 8,351
Likes: 75
From: Tampa Bay FL
Installed the Milodon 30701 pan (1980 right-hand dipstick), stock volume oil pump and new fel-pro 1-piece pan gasket. I found that some time since 1999 rebuild, I had used gasket sealer on the rear bearing cap surface where the pan seal sat and it may have been a problem. I cleaned that up and put fresh black RTV at all four corners of the seal and even dressed the 'strap' areas on both ends of gasket (facing the timing cover and rear cap) for good measure.
No leaks. I had some noise in/around engine at start-up. Sounded like my accessory belts were rubbing something or, worse, pan clearance. The sound cleared after a couple minutes while I was looking around the engine. I do have some exhaust leaks so I am going to fix those (header at cylinder head and header at pipe).
Update: Noise appears to be flywheel rubbing the converter splash pan. I think I tweaked the splash pan when positioning the starter (with splash pan in place but not attached).
No leaks. I had some noise in/around engine at start-up. Sounded like my accessory belts were rubbing something or, worse, pan clearance. The sound cleared after a couple minutes while I was looking around the engine. I do have some exhaust leaks so I am going to fix those (header at cylinder head and header at pipe).
Update: Noise appears to be flywheel rubbing the converter splash pan. I think I tweaked the splash pan when positioning the starter (with splash pan in place but not attached).
Last edited by TedH; Sep 30, 2013 at 08:55 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 7,098
Likes: 378
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
U need an anaerobic sealer - pretty thin runny stuff - for the main cap to the block. I have answered the rear seal questn enough there should be plenty in the archives if u do search.
cardo0
cardo0
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,736
Likes: 56
From: anchorage ak
Installed the Milodon 30701 pan (1980 right-hand dipstick), stock volume oil pump and new fel-pro 1-piece pan gasket. I found that some time since 1999 rebuild, I had used gasket sealer on the rear bearing cap surface where the pan seal sat and it may have been a problem. I cleaned that up and put fresh black RTV at all four corners of the seal and even dressed the 'strap' areas on both ends of gasket (facing the timing cover and rear cap) for good measure.
No leaks. I had some noise in/around engine at start-up. Sounded like my accessory belts were rubbing something or, worse, pan clearance. The sound cleared after a couple minutes while I was looking around the engine. I do have some exhaust leaks so I am going to fix those (header at cylinder head and header at pipe).
Update: Noise appears to be flywheel rubbing the converter splash pan. I think I tweaked the splash pan when positioning the starter (with splash pan in place but not attached).
No leaks. I had some noise in/around engine at start-up. Sounded like my accessory belts were rubbing something or, worse, pan clearance. The sound cleared after a couple minutes while I was looking around the engine. I do have some exhaust leaks so I am going to fix those (header at cylinder head and header at pipe).
Update: Noise appears to be flywheel rubbing the converter splash pan. I think I tweaked the splash pan when positioning the starter (with splash pan in place but not attached).
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 8,351
Likes: 75
From: Tampa Bay FL
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,736
Likes: 56
From: anchorage ak
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 8,351
Likes: 75
From: Tampa Bay FL
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 3,195
Likes: 632
From: Thunder Bay
It is black painted steel. One thing I found strange was that I had to torque the rail bolts down before it would sit on the gasket; there was about a 1/2" gap between the gasket where it sat on the rails and where the pan sat (engine was upside down on the engine stand). I guessed this was due to the fat seal in front or that the two seals have to press into both the timing cover and rear main cap.
And before someone posts about the thick/thin gasket thing, we definitely have the correct part. The gasket is just so thick I can't believe that this is the way Fel Pro expects it to work.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 8,351
Likes: 75
From: Tampa Bay FL
Did you make that Fel Pro gasket work? I am in the process of helping a buddy assemble his small block and he is having trouble getting an oil pan gasket to fit. The Fel Pro one piece gasket is very thick at the front, to the point where the bolts aren't long enough to engage the threads on the block. I have used the one piece gasket before without this problem. In fact I have one in my '79 now and it works perfectly, and I didn't have this problem installing it.
And before someone posts about the thick/thin gasket thing, we definitely have the correct part. The gasket is just so thick I can't believe that this is the way Fel Pro expects it to work.
And before someone posts about the thick/thin gasket thing, we definitely have the correct part. The gasket is just so thick I can't believe that this is the way Fel Pro expects it to work.
I note that both the oil pan and the aftermarket Canton timing cover mentioned using a seal with the thick front strap.
The Milodon pan is definitely more 'heavy duty' as the pan steel is thicker and the rails have better reinforcements at all 4 corners. And, I picked up clearance between my PS slave cylinder/linkage and the oil pan. A very good choice for the $120 I paid for the pan. Got some nice decals too
Last edited by TedH; Oct 2, 2013 at 10:01 AM.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 8,351
Likes: 75
From: Tampa Bay FL
That scraping 'noise' was back with a vengeance after I pulled the headers in order to remove the flywheel cover and inspect for clearance. While I was at it, I applied thread locker and torqued the three converter bolts for good measure.
I now suspect distributor/cam gear issue. I may have a real problem. Going to pull the distributor this weekend. If distributor or cam teeth show wear, I will advise.
Question: Is it possible to 'dent' the torque converter? I was using a prybar between the flywheel and converter and wondered if I may have dented the converterr (causing the internal blades to scrape... it seems too heavy to dent with a prybar.).
I now suspect distributor/cam gear issue. I may have a real problem. Going to pull the distributor this weekend. If distributor or cam teeth show wear, I will advise.
Question: Is it possible to 'dent' the torque converter? I was using a prybar between the flywheel and converter and wondered if I may have dented the converterr (causing the internal blades to scrape... it seems too heavy to dent with a prybar.).