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Old Sep 27, 2013 | 10:59 PM
  #21  
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- I'd like to be able to spin the tires and know that I can beat the minivan next to me

Most mini vans and SUV's these days have over 300 hp, sporty ricer cars that have 280 and up and weigh a lot less than your Vette, unless you plan on over 500hp someone in a fancy Cadillac, beemer, Audi, etc. will still walk away from you. It takes alot of money to keep up with technology these days.
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Old Sep 28, 2013 | 12:00 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Jartanyon
@ Bluedawg - I don't shift the car manually...i'm too afraid to on such an old trans! Extremely newb question, but do you let off the gas when shifting manually?

TedH - the carb has been rebuilt and the exhaust done along with the re-curve and the car does behave differently...just not at all enough for what I want. As I said before, I lost a lot on the low end going to 2.5" duals (probably from lack of back pressure). From reading a lot on the L48, it is very unlikely I will get the numbers I am looking for out of it. I will still be dropping you a line, though - i'm always interested in information
It won't hurt the tranny. Put it into first run it up to 5000rpm and with out letting off the gas, shift it to second. If it hurts the tranny then it was due to be rebuilt. When your driving it performance wise, drive it like you stole it. 5000 rpm should hurt either your engine or your tranny. I built my 400 to turn 6500 and only go to 6000 rpm. I felt that if I only take it to 6k then it might live a little longer and it's not a max effort engine.
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Old Sep 28, 2013 | 12:03 AM
  #23  
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From: anchorage ak
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Originally Posted by Stu's81
Quote:
- I'd like to be able to spin the tires and know that I can beat the minivan next to me

Most mini vans and SUV's these days have over 300 hp, sporty ricer cars that have 280 and up and weigh a lot less than your Vette, unless you plan on over 500hp someone in a fancy Cadillac, beemer, Audi, etc. will still walk away from you. It takes alot of money to keep up with technology these days.
Yeah no doubt there. 500 horse is the new 400 horse especially when talking 383 cid or bigger sbc. Afr has several 500+ horse builds on their dyno section.
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Old Sep 28, 2013 | 10:47 AM
  #24  
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Might need a little more fuel with the larger exhaust to make it work right
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Old Sep 28, 2013 | 11:14 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by bluedawg
I got the original l48 up to 259 rwhp with headers, heads, cam, intake and carb. If I gone better heads then, I may not have the 400 sbc I've got now. Your completely right about how a modded l48 feels compared to the stock 180 horse. But that compared to the same amount of modding done to a 383 would make you be a believer and the getting pinned to the seat from 2500 to 5000 rpm is alone worth the change in my opinion.
Off the line without power braking, this car smokes the tires into second gear (and that is with a very HARD shift of the 700R4 from 1-2. There is no shudder in engine performance given the carb/trans setup and it really leverages the 3.54 Spicer gears I had installed). That was before the retro-roller cam that has added more breathing to match the DART heads flow numbers. It definitely pins me to the seat and I have to really watch the steering wheel to keep it pointed strait as the backend tries to come around while the tires are screaming. I can't wait to try it with the roller cam kit and cylinder head refresh.
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Old Sep 28, 2013 | 01:05 PM
  #26  
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From: anchorage ak
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Originally Posted by TedH
Off the line without power braking, this car smokes the tires into second gear (and that is with a very HARD shift of the 700R4 from 1-2. There is no shudder in engine performance given the carb/trans setup and it really leverages the 3.54 Spicer gears I had installed). That was before the retro-roller cam that has added more breathing to match the DART heads flow numbers. It definitely pins me to the seat and I have to really watch the steering wheel to keep it pointed strait as the backend tries to come around while the tires are screaming. I can't wait to try it with the roller cam kit and cylinder head refresh.
Ted i wasn't knocking your build. When i said if id gone better heads i probably wouldnt have built the 400, that was wrong as i cant leave well enough alone. Im one of those dummies thats never satisfied. Off track, but what did you do about the broken bolt in the crank?
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Old Sep 29, 2013 | 09:07 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by bluedawg
Ted i wasn't knocking your build. When i said if id gone better heads i probably wouldnt have built the 400, that was wrong as i cant leave well enough alone. Im one of those dummies thats never satisfied. Off track, but what did you do about the broken bolt in the crank?
I pulled the engine. Once I hit the broken tool with a drill bit, it crumbled (cheap metal) and I was able to fit a screwdriver in and back it out of crank snout. Cleaned up and verified the crank threads and put the engine back in the vette. Found a few more while-I'm-At-It's when I pulled the engine so it worked out for the best. Wasn't looking forward to pulling the engine but bought a great cherry picker and accessories for the next time I may have to re-ring; the engine still smokes some and I'm seeing oil on the plugs. I had some issues with oil sucked into PCV hose at base of carb and hope that by fixing, that will be resolved. Otherwise, the engine will come out this winter and I'll have to increase bore and add fresh flat-tops and rings.

No offense taken. I've gone the route of "spirited street-only performance" on my C3 which means I'll probably stay with the current performance level. It won't see a race track but may see a chassis dyno again some day. Would like to verify what Comp claims I should be making after the retro-roller K-kit conversion and roller rockers (365hp/407tq @ crank).
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Old Sep 29, 2013 | 12:31 PM
  #28  
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From: anchorage ak
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Originally Posted by TedH
I pulled the engine. Once I hit the broken tool with a drill bit, it crumbled (cheap metal) and I was able to fit a screwdriver in and back it out of crank snout. Cleaned up and verified the crank threads and put the engine back in the vette. Found a few more while-I'm-At-It's when I pulled the engine so it worked out for the best. Wasn't looking forward to pulling the engine but bought a great cherry picker and accessories for the next time I may have to re-ring; the engine still smokes some and I'm seeing oil on the plugs. I had some issues with oil sucked into PCV hose at base of carb and hope that by fixing, that will be resolved. Otherwise, the engine will come out this winter and I'll have to increase bore and add fresh flat-tops and rings.

No offense taken. I've gone the route of "spirited street-only performance" on my C3 which means I'll probably stay with the current performance level. It won't see a race track but may see a chassis dyno again some day. Would like to verify what Comp claims I should be making after the retro-roller K-kit conversion and roller rockers (365hp/407tq @ crank).
Sucks to go through the effort an have that issue, when i did my l48 it worked great for about 10,000 miles, then started to blowby i did all the usual tricks to fixe with no lasting effect. 33 year old rings werent having it. If you have to replace the crank it would be a good time to increase the stroke. Was the claim off of cam quest or thier dyno sheets?
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Old Sep 29, 2013 | 07:50 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by bluedawg
Sucks to go through the effort an have that issue, when i did my l48 it worked great for about 10,000 miles, then started to blowby i did all the usual tricks to fixe with no lasting effect. 33 year old rings werent having it. If you have to replace the crank it would be a good time to increase the stroke. Was the claim off of cam quest or thier dyno sheets?
It is off of their web tool. I'd be happy with 350hp/400tq and I think I am in the neighborhood of that now.

If the smoking is failed rings, I will explore rebuild of my block with fresh Scat cast crank, rod and main bearings and hypereutectic pistons hung on my OEM rods plus moly rings. Although, it will have to be checked by a pro as I already bored .020" over in 1999. If boring another .010 won't clean up, then I'll get a short block assembly (either 355 for $1,000 or 383 for $1,800).

I know that a short block rebuild is close to the cost of a replacement (2-piece rear seal) short block but wrenching is a great outlet for work-related stress and is a great excuse to use and add to my automotive tools.

Last edited by TedH; Sep 29, 2013 at 07:58 PM.
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Old Sep 30, 2013 | 01:23 AM
  #30  
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From: anchorage ak
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Originally Posted by TedH
It is off of their web tool. I'd be happy with 350hp/400tq and I think I am in the neighborhood of that now.

If the smoking is failed rings, I will explore rebuild of my block with fresh Scat cast crank, rod and main bearings and hypereutectic pistons hung on my OEM rods plus moly rings. Although, it will have to be checked by a pro as I already bored .020" over in 1999. If boring another .010 won't clean up, then I'll get a short block assembly (either 355 for $1,000 or 383if your replacing for $1,800).

I know that a short block rebuild is close to the cost of a replacement (2-piece rear seal) short block but wrenching is a great outlet for work-related stress and is a great excuse to use and add to my automotive tools.
If your replacing the pistons id personally go forged, hypers work but are detonation seneitive and dont allow for much power adding(I know, your not going to use power adders, neither was i, but there i was in my underware, drunk bidding on a blower on ebay.... next day i had won), but cheap forged are better than hypers in my opinion and if you have to replace the crank, it dont cost much more to go 3.75" a little clearencing is all.

Last edited by bluedawg; Sep 30, 2013 at 01:30 AM.
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