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On my 73, I'm about to replace my 3rd power window switch in the last 18 months; two on the drivers' side, now one on the passenger's. I've been using the $20~ repo sold from the usual catalog companies.
Changing the switches is a bit of a time-suck and I'd like to find a quality switch that will last a long time.
Would I be better off using a good used original? Or is there a better repo out there?
Everything else, electrically, is fine. Once I replace the switch the windows work great for a while, then get balky, then quit altogether.
I know your feeling. I run into this ALL the time on this stuff being made poorly. The main issue in the repo's are that the "bean counters" removed the molded plastic shield that GM originally installed to prevent crap from getting to the electrical circuit. Once "they" did that...all heck breaks loose and problems because due to the position of power window switches in the hand brake/shift console...it does not take much fuzz and lint and other stuff to get into the switches and begin to tarnish the contacts...and once a few arcs of current add more deformity to the terminals...there you go...heat build up and failure in the spring contacts and the way they make contact.
When you use the sw, do you hang onto the sw for a second longer once the window has reached it's stop? Once the motor has stalled, the current rises a lot which the sw may not be able to handle.
it does not take much fuzz and lint and other stuff to get into the switches and begin to tarnish the contacts...and once a few arcs of current add more deformity to the terminals...there you go...heat build up and failure in the spring contacts and the way they make contact.nDUB
I bought a new switch for my Vette from GM about 15 years ago and paid $60 (still in box). My '85 Pontiac's used to stop working every few years and removal and a good shot of WD40 would get it working. Re and Re was easy in that car. Just cleaned out the crap on the contacts.
Try getting an older swich and doing that. Willcox's price is in line.
Not to cut a sales.... but for years we would take the switches apart and fix them. You can get the bottom board out of the switch with ease. The outer housing is pot metal and you need to un-crimp the steak marks to do so. Once you get the switch open, inside you will find a set of contact points and in most cases you can file these with a point file, re-install, re-crimp and the switch is good as gold. (the contacts are closed either way by a lobe on the bottom of the flip lever in the switch).
Maybe I should re-visit the video camera and do one... Food for thought.