Bonding Headlight Header Bar
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 4,255
Likes: 82
From: Brampton Ont.
Bonding Headlight Header Bar
LORD FUSOR 127EZ was recomended to bond the headlight header bar in the 75' and I noticed it comes in both a blue and red container. Anyone know the difference?
I haven't purchased the headlight header bar yet so I'm unclear on the installation process yet, other then this product works well re installation.
Lord Fusor Plastic Bonding Adhesive
Lord Fusor Plastic Bonding Adhesive
I haven't purchased the headlight header bar yet so I'm unclear on the installation process yet, other then this product works well re installation.
Lord Fusor Plastic Bonding Adhesive
Lord Fusor Plastic Bonding Adhesive
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,193
Likes: 176
From: Hillsborough NC
That's the stuff I used to do my header replacement. It's actually made about 20 minutes from my house. Worked great. I believe the difference is in set times, I would suggest making sur you get yourself the slow set formula (1-hour) to help you get it right.
Another tip I picked up when researching this job is to place small stainless steel washers in the adhesive when you put it on the header bar.
When you clamp, you will only be able to clamp down to the thickness of the washers. The washers will act as small spacers ensuring that you don't squeeze all of the bonding agent out. Worked like a charm.
Good luck
Another tip I picked up when researching this job is to place small stainless steel washers in the adhesive when you put it on the header bar.
When you clamp, you will only be able to clamp down to the thickness of the washers. The washers will act as small spacers ensuring that you don't squeeze all of the bonding agent out. Worked like a charm.
Good luck
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 4,255
Likes: 82
From: Brampton Ont.
tip I picked up when researching this job is to place small stainless steel washers in the adhesive when you put it on the header bar.
When you clamp, you will only be able to clamp down to the thickness of the washers. The washers will act as small spacers ensuring that you don't squeeze all of the bonding agent out. Worked like a charm.
Good luck
When you clamp, you will only be able to clamp down to the thickness of the washers. The washers will act as small spacers ensuring that you don't squeeze all of the bonding agent out. Worked like a charm.
Good luck
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
Use the slowest possible....so you have all the time you need to get it set. You might have some left over by using one tube.....but I myself would have an extra tube on hand. The reason being...When I do these beams...I apply a very good thick bead of Fusor so when it is clamped...it flattens out and will completely cover the flange of the beam inside and out. Doing this is a job I do not want to do twice.
Now...you have to understand that I have replaced many of these beams and panels so when I apply the bead of Fusor on the flange (in the center) and clamp it...I can see how well the Fusor flows. So it let me know how large of a bead I need to apply. mainly so I do not have a big mess...and I am not wasting product. SO ..by using the washer shim method as mentioned by "SLVRSHRK"...and using a small section of your old beam...and clamping a piece of something rigid to it so you can see if it is flowing out both sides as needed...I would do so.
DUB
Now...you have to understand that I have replaced many of these beams and panels so when I apply the bead of Fusor on the flange (in the center) and clamp it...I can see how well the Fusor flows. So it let me know how large of a bead I need to apply. mainly so I do not have a big mess...and I am not wasting product. SO ..by using the washer shim method as mentioned by "SLVRSHRK"...and using a small section of your old beam...and clamping a piece of something rigid to it so you can see if it is flowing out both sides as needed...I would do so.
DUB
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,193
Likes: 176
From: Hillsborough NC
Agree with DUB, use the slowest one you can get. You want to give some time to get it in and aligned. I used the headlight frames for alignment as I had them disassembled for rebuilding anyway.
One tube was enough for me. I like the suggestion by DUB to test and determine the required bead thickness. Should have thought of that.
One tube was enough for me. I like the suggestion by DUB to test and determine the required bead thickness. Should have thought of that.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5,381
Likes: 416
From: N J
I used the top one shown in your pic also and it worked just fine. Did the spacer thing too, you want to leave enough adhesive in there to be a solid bond. Obviously don't forget to mark it prior to installation, ya want that bar back exactly where it came out. The double tube gun isn't cheap for a 1 time use, maybe you can borrow one. I loaned mine out, but its still in use. Good luck.
