Ok all together turned the key and no fire! That was last night after two scotches and in the dark. Went out this AM checked everything and Dist in 180 deg off Doooohhhh.

Results: Engine runs great! Seat of the pants and fun factor dyno says big improvement.

Recipe:
Stock L48
LT headers
2 1/2 true dual exhaust
Vortec heads
Performer Intake
1.6 Roller tip Rockers
Stock Qjet
All in Money with gaskets and misc $1,400 fun factor improvement from 170 HP priceless! Next 100 shot NOS.

 

Option # 10. Save up your money, buy a Fast Burn or ZZ4 crate engine and swap it out. Problem solved !

 

Here is where I usually find the problem. I like to imbibe while wrenching too.

 

Awesome

Did you check pushrod clearance?

 

Awesome job! L48 can be transformed into a nice street performer...

 

Is there more clearance under a 77 hood than a 73 with the cowl induction ? My cousin and I want to build a mild 408 small block for his 73 L48 4 speed keeping the cowl induction. The recipe would be 9.2 compression 408 ci, vortec heads, Lingenfelter 280* TPI cam (flat tappet) with 1.6 rockers with early Vette 2.5" outlet manifolds (ported) and a 2.5" mandrel bent exhaust. Carb would be later model 800 cfm Q jet with the stock air cleaner...what are our intake manifold choices ? Edelebrock Performer or Scoggin Dickey cast iron vortec p/n 14096011V $240.00 ?

Also, does anyone know if LS1 2.00 and 1.55 valves can be put into vortec heads ? Are the valve lengths even close ? I have a spare set and would like to put them in with some bowl work if it's possible.

 

I did, reused old push rods witness marks right in the middle on all 16 valves.

And no the hood wont shut with stock air cleaner. Its either the sawzall or a 2.5 inch open element with drop base.

Decisions Decisions

 

So here is where my budget C3 build is (Kinda like Wheeler Dealer)

1978 Corvette $2,800
Wiring Harness $800
Engine up grade $1,400
New Shocks $400
Power Steering Rebuild $250
Adjustable Rear struts $100
Interior pieces Console Headlight switch, AC controls, etc. $350
Tires $400
Maacco Paint Job (I prepped it) $500

Total $7,000 and its actually a very nice/sorted/vetted (hahaha) fun car car now Pics to follow.

 

Aluminum heads ,matched up with a roller cam.That's a lot of cubes feed it!!

 

I actually find what you did quite interesting to your L-48. Congrats!

Obviously, heads, exhaust, and a cam (if you had decided to undertake that task) will make a world of difference on your L-48, more so on a L-82 since it is a much better platform to start with for these changes. The "300 HP" cam is not anywhere near that number when rated as Net versus Gross HP back in the early 70's but a cam change only on stock motor has been known to bump HP by 25-30 HP according to 2 engine builders I have spoken with. Both of my sources who build engines for their livings have indicated that the "proper" cam changes only with my stock L-82 internals and heads should be good for 25 HP with current Shorty headers and 2.5 inch dual exhaust. I am trying to find the time to change out the stock L-82 cam for a voodoo 262/268 cam only using the stock 882 heads (plan is to mildly port them and rebuild-want to keep the engine stock). Last dyno was 233 RWHP with 65,000 miles on the L-82. Forum member, Karol, has a stock L-82 with 100,000 miles and a mild cam, stock heads and internals, with 2.5 inch duals (no headers) and his motor produced apprx 250 RWHP on the same dyno. Tough to compare BUT the numbers seem to indicate that the cam only is worth 25 HP with Stock components. Certainly in the ballpark of possibilities. Just saying......

 

JB,

I'm sure a cam helps alot but..

The reason I dont like doing cams is kinda silly but there are certain tasks that I simply don't like to do.

The main thing is pulling the balancer and dropping the oil pan I can never do this procedure without screwing something up either the timing chain cover leaks or the oil pan leaks or I strip the bolt in the balancer or oil pan or I dont degree the cam right or I swear like a sailor while pulling the shroud or etc....

 

I understand your rationale completely. I always say if I don't do a project twice, it is not done right. I actually changed my timing chain last year and all went right for once, though it was a PIA BUT of course, I should have done my cam and reconditioned the heads at that time. NOW, I have to do the timing chain procedure AGAIN, when I get the time to do the cam and head update!!! Like I said, twice is my middle name, though, the timing chain removal and reinstall should go quicker and easier on round 2.

 

Funny you mentioned that twice thing. I just took the brakes apart and was going to patch them up but its one of those "I hate jobs" so I sucked it up and ordered the "Master overhaul kit" so I can be once and done.

 

If he were willing to use headers and a 3" dual exhaust I would say aluminum heads and roller cam too, but with ported early ram's horns and 2.5" exhaust it's just not needed. If it makes 375 (crankshaft) hp he'd be tickled $hitless !

 

good to hear that you like the new combo, if you get the chance get some dyno numbers just to see how much of a diff the swap made.

 

I, for one, would be very interested in seeing a before and after on the head upgrade......you didn't dyno it before, did you?


Scott

 

I had a 76 L82 and put in an Isky 264 mega cam-214-214. 450 lift on a 108 lsa. Lots more low and mid range on the otherwise stock engine and a nice throaty idle. Works with all stock valve train too.

 

That's where I'd like to be right now with my retro-roller conversion that I just completed. I did a lot of freshening of the cylinder heads along with the complete K-Kit parts that came with the cam/lifters. I must say, the car sounds extremely 'healthy' and pulls stronger than it did with my Energizer cam (272H10 grind).

I found I had to move the A/C condenser up and out of the way to pull the cam (I removed hood, radiator and shroud also of course). Once I broke the damper install tool off in the crank, I had to pull the engine to remove it and verify the crank threads. I was amazed at how much LESS time it took to pull the engine than to drop it back in. But, I found a broken motor mount in the process that I would not have found had I not pulled the engine (just my experience). Was also a good excuse to get a new cherry picker with a nice leveler and chains kit to add to my engine stand

 

You are doing it right (in stages). Enjoy your new-found power!

 

Nice job. I think u did it the right way as i believe the heads are an easier swap than the cam. And now u can dial in the carb and ign timing so when you ready for a bigger cam it will all be a no brainer. I think u can read every week here when someone gets ahead of himself and never finishes his project.

Nice work,
cardo