Couldn't find an answer in the archives, although there was some info in the C2 forum.

In the process of removing my front brake calipers, I knackered the fitting at the wheel end of the right crossover line. Ordered a replacement (pre-bent) from Ecklers. My question is how is it lead from the proportioning valve? The AIM shows a minimal pattern, but excludes a detailed picture. The line seems to disappear into - or above - the frame.

Anyone done this, or can lend some info? I'm hoping I won't have to remove anything (or - too much of anything) to get this piece installed.

Thanks in advance.

Dan G>

 

It goes across the top of the frame from the valve and then drops down in front of the crossmember ahead of the radiator support in a slight V shape to reappear at the other frame rail where it snakes around the A-arm and goes to the bracket where the flexible line meets. There are clips used to hold it on place that screw into the frame. It is easy to install if you get the line bent to a near proper shape and feed it up through the car both sides at the same time. I did that to my '77 recently after I broke the fitting end while replacing calipers. It took just a few minutes laying on my back in the driveway with the front end on jack stands. Getting the end starting at the P-valve was a little difficult just because of the angle at which I was working. Otherwise, piece of cake.

 

Hope this helps

 

Thank you BOTH for that detailed response! I'm already feeling a LOT better. (Had visions of hoisting up the engine, removing radiator, detaching arms......etc..etc)

Really appreciate the description and pix!

Dan G>

 

I've replaced all metal brake lines on 76. You have be a bit crafty and patient with the twist and turns but it's not too bad.

 

It's a bit tedious, and you will have to make a bend or two to get it installed, then re-straighten...but it is definitely 'do-able'. Just be patient and think through each move you make.

 

A set back, but not defeat: I knackered the new crossover. While trying to do a bend toward the right front side, the line broke. My fault; I think I was getting impatient and a bit pained from the strained angle I was working under the car. Mr Willcox gets another boat buck (or 1/2 of one), and I'll try anew next week.

The good news is, the advice helped; the bad news is, it's not that easy to get right the first time - at least for me.

Dan G>

 

Ed T wrote:

"Keep tryin', the second time is easier

before you start lay both lines out on the floor and match up your new line to your old one to ensure the bends are the same or reasonably close enough.

feed a long string thru the engine side (both sides), down thru and past the front of the crossmember.

leave your caps on the new line, tie the string fast to the brake line and from the engine side pull the string and brake line back up thru and into position, leaving yourself some slack in the line. Then do the other side the same way.

Don't reinstall/tighten any bolts/clips or connections until you have it both sides where you want 'em.

Doing it that way the brake line should not need to be bent or get boogered if you are working alone. Sometimes it makes sense to have a helper feed it up thru from the floor while you are pulling the string from up above on the engine side to prevent line damage, but this should easily be a one guy/one beer job. Have fun !"
***************
Thanks Ed! I made several errors - the biggest being that I left the original line in place as a guide for routing the new one. I should've done what you suggest - remove it and use it to prep the new crossover. When I get the new one, I'll make a red grease pencil line for reference, and carefully pre bend (without breaking) the replacement.

My wife suggested I use a 'fish line' as you said; for some reason I didn't follow her advice. Apparently she - and you - are a little smarter than I.

Dan G>

 

It is best if you DO NOT purchase stainless steel line for this piece. Stainless is difficult to bend and it is brittle; to much of a bend or trying to un-bend it usually causes it to crack or break. Regular steel line can take some amount of bending without causing such risk.

If your other lines are S.S., you can make a regular steel line look similar by polishing it with a ScotchBrite pad, then giving it a coat of clear engine enamel (Dupli-Color works fine).

 

Thanks for the info. But, short of making up my own line, how can I specify regular steel line from the usual suppliers? It seems stainless is the defacto offering.

Re: looks - I don't care if the line is purple so long as it works.

Dan G>

 

Take the old line down to you local parts house, match it up with what is hanging on the wall, and you got it....plain galv/coated steel line...

 

Some of the Corvette vendors like Mid America offer a non-stainless steel line kit. Problem is it's a whole kit but they are pre-bent.

 

The stainless line I got from Ecklers (or maybe Willcox, I forget - so many packages lately) was pre bent as well. However, I tweaked it beyond what is apparently reasonable.

I took some time to study the AIM again. Turns out there IS a more detailed page on the front brake line system - most importantly - the placement and angles of the two ends of the crossover. I missed this page previously. Those connector angles are very helpful to see, and if I use Ed's 'fishing method,' along with the old line as a bend template, I'm sure I'll be successful with the new line coming this week.

Dan G>

 

Why didn't I think of that?

Thanks!

Dan G>

 

Just when you thought this thread was history...IT'S BACK!!!!!

Took several weeks to get this job done. Our friends at Willcox were out of stock, but I finally got the new line Monday and began in earnest to install it yesterday - Tuesday, around 10:30PST.

At approximately 13:10PST today, I finished routing that %$##@@!@ through all the $%$$%@ obstructions and challenges. (Yes, I got 8 hours sleep in between.) Anyway, I thank you one and all for your suggestions - especially the idea of using a fishing line to pull the #$#"#$ into position. That was especially handy on the passenger side, where the @#**$%ing air conditioner bracket is. And yes - the AIM was helpful - sort of. Beer - more so.

But wait! There's more................

At 14:00 hours today, I began my first attempt to seat the driver's side fitting into the P-valve. 15:30 hours - 71 attempts later, no go. I ask my wife to lend a hand (mine are fatter than a pig's a**). No go. I remove the master cylinder for more access to align the fitting from the top. Back and forth, standing up, laying down, I try again and again to screw that $%%**@ thing into the P-valve. No go.

Afraid I was going to break a fitting (again), I pour a cap full of brake fluid into the P-valve. I take a deep breath as I slide underneath the car for the 100th time. Pushing carefully down on the pipe, I apply wrench to nut. IT GRABS! I turn some more! Down further! Five minutes later, the *^&%%$A#% nut is seated firmly!!!

So - moral of story. Some jobs aren't easy. They take time. But, that's just me. You guys are more experienced and probably, a $#$%^load more lucky.

Thanks again for your help. It's very much appreciated.

Dan G>

 

If nothing else, working on a Corvette teaches one patience.... or drive one to drink...

I think I'll have another while I ponder.

 

Me too.

 

It also teaches the neighbor's kid words he hadn't heard yet!

 

Although I haven't worked on a C-3 in many years, I did a LOT of work on a '79 that my wife used to own. I re-did the brake lines with a kit I bought from Stainless Steel Brake (I'm pretty sure that's who it was), and didn't have too much trouble installing it. I will say, however, that getting the brake line nuts started in their respective hoses and distribution blocks can indeed try one's patience. Leaving all the retaining clips loose, or even unattached, when first getting threads engaged, makes it somewhat easier.

 

True dat. That's where I made my first mistake(s) - trying to secure the line with the clips before the unit was fully routed to the terminals.

I took a tip from one of my repair manuals (might've been the dreaded Haynes): using a dab of brake fluid to lubricate the threads. I won't know if that was a good idea 'till I begin the bleeding procedure tomorrow. But at least a savvy neighborhood mechanic agreed to lend me his vacuum bleeder which - hopefully - will make THAT job go well. (knock on fiberglass).

If I get a good solid pedal and safe braking power after this entire ordeal, every minute will be worth it. If not, those neighborhood kids will be hearing some brand new words.