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That is one job better left to the car glass shop. Ask them if you need to furnish any new seals or will they. These need to be replaced, Their is so much chance for you to break the new glass installing it, It's Not Worth It. getting the stainless trim at the right height to the glass, to the body. takes Patience, I pulled lots of glass in a year working a salvage yard. Broke a lot too! But your glass isn't that cheap anymore. Guys on here all had to learn some how. Luck to you. Gene
i called safelite waited all day after they said 9 a.m and then never showed. i called a local company glass doctor the guy they sent had a 77 vette and had pictures. he pulled the old one thought i should ospho a couple very small spots, so he left and came back monday and installed the new glass. charged me the same price for two trips and gave me the full warranty.i have done everything there is to do on a corvette over the years and it just isn't worth doing a windshield yourself.
I replaced my own, it was really not all that hard. The part that you want to make sure you get right is the height of the glass from the windshield frame so the trim does not have a gap between it and the windshield. To do this you must use setting blocks. Then mock up the trim to check for the correct height. It took me two dry runs to mine right.
To remove the old glass use a wire such as a guitar string with two blocks of wood similar to a cheese cutter to run between the old glass and windshield frame to cut the seal. After cutting the seal sit in the passenger seat and place both your feet on the on the windshield glass and press it out.
I replaced my own, it was really not all that hard. The part that you want to make sure you get right is the height of the glass from the windshield frame so the trim does not have a gap between it and the windshield. To do this you must use sitting blocks. Then mock up the trim to check for the correct height. It took me two dry runs to mine right.
To remove the old glass use a wire such as a guitar string with two blocks of wood similar to a cheese cutter to run between the old glass and windshield frame to cut the seal. After cutting the seal sit in the passenger seat and place both your feet on the on the windshield glass and press it out.
Roco is 100 percent correct! Even if you pay someone to replace the glass make sure they use a spacer blocks between the glass and the frame before they install the glass permanently. Make sure they test fit the glass before they glue it in.
The current aftermarket windshields are not as thick as the original LOF glass. It very common now to see cars where there is a 1/8" or larger gap between the glass and the windshield upper molding.
I'm doing this for my 1970 right now. I would recommend removing the old glass yourself that way you can assess any frame rust issues (hopefully there aren't any requiring structural work) but then you can prep and treat the frame with rust preventative.
BB2B,
The sequence for removing the ss trim is:
First: the a-pillar weather strip and weather strip retainer must be removed. The weatherstrip is glued into the retainer. The screws that hold the retainer in place can be reached through small holes in the weatherstrip. Look at your AIM to get an idea how many screws there are and where they are located.
Second: the a-pillar ss trim can now be removed. It's held on by screws too. Be careful that you get the right screws back in the same locations.
Third: now the long thin piece of ss trim at the top of the windshield can be removed. It's held on by trim clips.
Now the glass can be cut out and the windshield frame prepared for the new glass.
Trial fitting and spacing the new glass and then trial fitting the trim is CRITICAL if you want the trim to fit snuggly against the glass as it should.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
Here's the weatherstrip retainer being released from the a-pillar ss trim. You can see one of the screws for the ss a-pillar trim.
Here's a picture showing the trim off and the clips that hold the long thin piece of ss trim in place. They're spaced across the windshield header.
Thanks everyone for all the feedback. I did check with a couple local shops and did not get a warm feeling that I would get it done right. Everyone voiced concern for the trim and their ability to remove it without damage. I figured I was probably going to be more careful than they would be so, I'm doing it. I have the A pillar trim removed, heat gun came in very handy here. I have the header trim to go but it does not seems to want to budge and I'm not forcing it. More heat? special tools? Is there a trick?
I`ve set a few windshields myself on cars I`ve restored. SETTING the glass is not the problem. I`ve busted two windshields long after they were installed. One was on the 66 goat, and one on our 71 Vette. Broke both of them the same way... trying to adjust the molding clips AFTER the glass was installed!
DON`T DO IT! Be sure you get the clips where you want them first. Dry fit the glass, use the spacer blocks everybody mentioned.... (a small piece of rubber or hard foam works well) then test fit the molding to be sure the clips are where you want them!
Rust is the main point. Take it to a glass shop and they will not be able to deal with it. You did not mention if You intend to re use the Glass or not. I would recommend buying the Trim Tool and removing the Glass Yourself and having a look at the Rust Issue. More often or not there is more Rust than You think, but maybe You will get lucky. Once You have the Window Frame in good shape You will need to decide if Your going to set the Glass Yourself or not. If your going to use the OEM style Tape or Modern adhesives. I did all this last year on a Rust Free Car, and You can find my concerns buying a Windshield if You use the Search feature.
When I picked my windshield up at the warehouse the gentlemen at the counter asked are you going to install it? I said yes, he said you know they break real easy. I said I have heard that. He said come on back and showed me the windshield. He asked "do you still want to try?" I said yes He said "you know they break real easy is this your first? I said yes unless you will let me practice on your car he then smiled. I said I will make you a deal, if I break it I will back for another.
when you trial fit the glass, check the lower outer corners for space between the frame and the glass. i had to use extra adhesive in those areas due to the larger gap.
make sure you get the proper adhesive etc, don't use some multi -pourpose silicone or anything. its funny, i am waiting on safelite to change the windshield on my edge sport, i called back to confirm it has the rain sensor and they send the guy without that. on top of last time for my 79 corvette they called in the morning and said they had truck problems and would be late and at 5 p.m had not showed. called a local company and they came early next morning and had no issue. so glass people aren't on my good side. you are probably smart to d.i.y. best of luck.
An alternative approach is for you to remove the trim and the windshield. At that point, you can check out any rust problem and fix it.
Then, call in the pros to install the new windshield. You should be aware of the thickness of set-blocks you need for proper installation height so that you can approve how they will proceed. Once the glass is in and sealed, you can reinstall the trimwork.
To me, this is the way to go. You will know how your windshield frame looks and be able to make repairs...BUT the pros can supply and install the new glass. AND, you will get a warranty on the glass and install job. (Can't get that from yourself!)