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No, do not do that, you can short out the module in the distributor. With the engine off you can pull a wire at the plug and ground it and then restart the engine.
Sure. It will run a bit rough, of course; but you can compare how it runs 'before' and 'after' each plug cap removal to detect which line is the one with the problem. If you find one that eliminates the "miss", just make sure that you check the plug, the wire, and that specific contact in the distributor cap to find where the problem is located.
Note: After removing each plug cap, place it somewhere so that the opening is at least an inch or two from any grounded surface. Otherwise, it could 'leak' its spark out of the cap and mess up your testing.
P.S. I don't think you want to 'ground out' the removed plug wire. Keeping it "open" (away from metal) is no different than having a completely fouled plug....no spark will occur. Don't know how that will cause a problem for the module.
Last edited by 7T1vette; Nov 22, 2013 at 11:30 AM.
Very high voltage there. Wear gloves. It may "bite" you anyway. If it does, you will be startled, but there is not enough amperage in a stock ignition system to hurt a healthy person.
If you try to do that with a running engine, put on latex/plastic gloves and then a set of leather gloves to protect from heat. But, I would just turn engine OFF between tests.
No, do not do that, you can short out the module in the distributor. With the engine off you can pull a wire at the plug and ground it and then restart the engine.
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Originally Posted by 7T1vette
Sure. It will run a bit rough, of course; but you can compare how it runs 'before' and 'after' each plug cap removal to detect which line is the one with the problem. If you find one that eliminates the "miss", just make sure that you check the plug, the wire, and that specific contact in the distributor cap to find where the problem is located.
Note: After removing each plug cap, place it somewhere so that the opening is at least an inch or two from any grounded surface. Otherwise, it could 'leak' its spark out of the cap and mess up your testing.
P.S. I don't think you want to 'ground out' the removed plug wire. Keeping it "open" (away from metal) is no different than having a completely fouled plug....no spark will occur. Don't know how that will cause a problem for the module.
Fouled plugs often have electrically conductive (carbon) deposits on the insulator (between the center electrode and the threaded body. This shorts out the high voltage/current coming down the wire (similar to grounding the plug wire), preventing an ignition event in that cylinder.
Where possible damage can occur is when the plug wire is open circuited. The coil secondary voltage keeps climbing (as the magnetic field collapses) in an attempt to jump the plug gap, which in this instance is not a .035" gap but actually a very large gap (perhaps an inch or more). While the secondary voltage is going sky high (tens of thousands of volts) at this moment, the primary voltage at the coil C- terminal (which is also the collector of the switching transistor in the HEI module) is also seeing multiple hundreds of volts due to the primary to secondary turns ratio of the coil. The switching transistor in an OEM HEI module is a good robust item, but it's best not to abuse the system unnecessarily.
I've used a timing light and found misses, some times thats enough, other times I've found that removing the plug wire works, but also found it easier with a set of plug wire pliers with insulation to avoid getting shocked.