Attachment 47749656Hi all I am new to Forum and have a few questions for the veterans. about 25 years ago I owned a 75 L-48 bone stock for the entire time of ownership as barely could even afford car at that time. now after 1st child through college and 2nd in high school I'm ready for another. I was really interested in a as seems as if prices are not more then some C3's. although I live in NJ. and i amd thinking older then 88 to avoid inspection and ability to go with classic car ins. and I dont like 84-88 and I just came across a deal on another 75 at a deal(help me out) that i beleive is too good to pass up. my budget was 8k to buy and this C 1975 with 49k original Miles came up from a aquaintence for $5500. I am supposed to go check car out tomorrow. all I know so far is that the heat does not work which I do all my own work and theres nothing to a heater that I cant fix. my prev 75 if it was just a little low on antifreeze heat would not work (I could only be so lucky) from a picture it looks as if a/c belt is off. again not a deal changer. so good deal?? also now that I have about 2k left in budget i am looking for perf. upgrades. most bang for the buck. as I read first and foremost true duals. (any suggestions?) side pipes or under.2 1/4 or 2 1/2" intake,cam? I will attemp to upload a pic. but I am no good at these forums. thanks for reading my long winded post well could
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If you can do the wrench work yourself then the 2 main considerations are rust in the frame, and body and paint condition. You need to get under the car and check the frame particularly just forward of the rear wheels. If that's OK, $5,500 isn't bad, particularly if it runs and drives and the interior is good.

 

Being a northern driven car, it would be worth the time and maybe a few bucks to put it up on a lift and do a thorough frame, crossmember and body mount inspection. Snow/salt/cinders can do a real number underneath. Radiator braces and supports also take a real beating so check closely. Body-off frame resto's are not easy or cheap. Hope she's the creampuff I see in the photo. And have fun!

 

I will see tomorrow, thanks for the tip. I feel confident about car just because I have known the seller for about 14 years and car has been in her garage the whole time. driven very infrequently.not sure if you saw pic but it is a very good looker and driver.

 

Thanks

 

Also while you're under there...see what's leaking. These unattended vettes after sitting will develop leaks from the differential, power steering control valve, engine, tranny and brake calipers with brakes being the most critical. You want it to run but also want it to stop!

Hey Pacecar 620...what's the 620 represent?

 

#620 of 6502 built

 

Welcome to the forum. See if you can look under the back of the car for the 2 body mounts. They are easiest to see and if they are OK, you might be in good shape since all the salt etc would have been washed up in that area over the years. Also see if the floor pans are OK in front of the seats. Not sure if '75 still had fiberglass floors or that was the year they switched to steel. Just pull up the carpet if you can. The rest of this is easy, and as for a midlife chrisis, this is cheaper than a 25 year old blond. Maybe, but they are both high maintainence.

 

will I see the body mounts from under the back? or in front of wheels? also I was reading an article today of a guy converting from th350 to 5 speed and mentioned 76 being last year for fiberglass floor so hope i'm good there.

 

This post might give you some idea where to look.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...-corvette.html

 

The drive belt being removed means that whatever it is turning no longer works. Or, at least, that is what you must assume. If YOU owned the car and wanted to sell it...and it just needed a belt to work properly, you'd buy and install the belt, wouldn't you?

You MUST check the frame for rust. Tell the owner what you want to do, then use a medium screwdriver like you would an icepick to drive the tip into several locations on both sides of the frame rails (don't do this on any fiberglass or sheet metal ). The screwdriver should not do any damage, other than to make a mark on the surface. But, if the blade penetrates the frame at all, or it dislodges layers of rust, the frame is likely rotten and will need patch repairs or replacement. This is the most important test you can do. Make sure that you do this test around the body mount areas and on the frame where it curves down behind the rear wheels. That is a common location for nasty frame rusting.

Also, you are buying a car to drive...not just to look at it. Test the function of EVERYTHING THAT DOES ANYTHING. Make sure all the operating systems, accessories, and engine/transmission work in all ranges and with load on them. Check steering, suspension, brakes, lights, wipers, etc., etc. Run/pour water over it to check for leaks. Any of this stuff that needs repair will be time consuming and costly. Also, make sure the condition of the paint is adequate for your needs. The cost of a new paint job will push your total expense over the worth of that car.

Good luck.

 

also now that I have about 2k left in budget i am looking for perf. upgrades. most bang for the buck. as I read first and foremost true duals. (any suggestions?)

These cars are money pits! Don't fool yourself into thinking you have an extra $2k to play with. Drive the car, if you're able, for awhile and see what essential repairs are needed.

Welcome back!
John

 

I can easily go from "I have an extra 2 grand to I need an extra 2 grand"!
LOL