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replacing rear ujoint

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Old Nov 30, 2013 | 11:57 AM
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Default replacing rear ujoint

Okay tracing down a thump. Now the question is, how hard is it to replace the rear drive line u joint? It looks difficult for a rookie with tools.
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Old Nov 30, 2013 | 12:47 PM
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The trans yoke and differential yoke should each have 4 bolts or nuts holding the straps on. Once those are off the drive shaft should come out.

Then, I used a hammer and a deep socket to tap out the old joint, and a bench vice and shallow socket to press in the new joint.

I think you would need some type of press or vice at the least.
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Old Nov 30, 2013 | 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by popshumphrey
It looks difficult for a rookie with tools.
Not as difficult as a rookie without tools.

What year car have you got?
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Old Nov 30, 2013 | 05:30 PM
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Not bad to repair just make sure caps don't loose the needle bearings, stay clean, greased ,& are in proper place before tightening. You can crack the caps if tightened & not seated properly. Just take your time & be meticulous. I like to tighten caps when car has weight bearing on rear end so they are not misaligned when tightening. Use blocks under rear wheels but still keep jacks in place so it doesn't fall or slip. Safety is #1.
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Old Nov 30, 2013 | 05:50 PM
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If you do the drive shaft you HAVE TO MARK IT...so you know which is front and rear.

Using a press is what I do....if you use a vice...you might need to apply a very small amount of grease to the needle bearings in the caps so they do not fall down when you try to compress them with a vise. I also have a large round wire bush to clean the driveshaft where the caps go...and also any dirt and crud out of eh groove for the clip.

I inspect the end of the driveshaft to see if some previous "BOZO" got in there and beat the end of the driveshaft to death with a hammer...thus damaging it and making it very hard to either remove the clip or install the new one due to indented metal.

If you are doing the half shafts...that is a completely different scenario. Let us know if that is what you are planning on doing. They are a bit more "tricky" than the driveshaft because they require the use of the inner flange to keep the part solid so it will not break when you go to remove or install a new U-joint at the wheel side of the half-shaft (outers).

DUB

Last edited by DUB; Nov 30, 2013 at 05:54 PM.
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Old Nov 30, 2013 | 09:20 PM
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The driveshaft is a balanced assy. Be sure you mark the axle yoke and driveshaft, as it is possible to get it reinstalled 180 degrees out of the current balanced position.
The same is true for the slipyoke end of the driveshaft. Mark the lug ear of the slipyoke and be sure it mates to the driveshaft in the same orientation.
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