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Courtesy light circuit

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Old Dec 2, 2013 | 10:55 PM
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Default Courtesy light circuit

Okay guys, I purchased the alarm switch and installed it on my 1972 tonight. It did not come up all roses. I blew a fuse and the courtesy lamps went out too. I replaced the fuse, but the circuit is still dead. I am thinking I need to remove the alarm switch and start over. Your input is appreciated.
Thanks

Last edited by tbayless; Dec 2, 2013 at 11:11 PM.
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Old Dec 3, 2013 | 08:18 AM
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What are you calling an "alarm" switch? Door jamb switch?
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Old Dec 3, 2013 | 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Easy Mike
What are you calling an "alarm" switch? Door jamb switch?
The key switch that looks like a trunk locking mechanism. It wires to a horn and both door jambs and the hood, as well as a flasher and a another component in the jack compartment.
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Old Dec 3, 2013 | 07:34 PM
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QUESTIONS:
Is there any special reason you are wanting to use this alarm system???
(You are aware that if you have it working and energized...and the alarm goes off...it will drain your battery) It is like an 8-track tape player in a Compact Disc world.

I have upgraded alarm systems like this to the newer style so it will at least shut off the horn...and still disable the starter.

Do you have a wiring diagram???

Have you tested the horn to make sure it works????

The flasher, relay and other wiring connections...are they clean and in good condition???

DUB
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Old Dec 3, 2013 | 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by DUB
QUESTIONS:
Is there any special reason you are wanting to use this alarm system???
(You are aware that if you have it working and energized...and the alarm goes off...it will drain your battery) It is like an 8-track tape player in a Compact Disc world.

I have upgraded alarm systems like this to the newer style so it will at least shut off the horn...and still disable the starter.

Do you have a wiring diagram???

Have you tested the horn to make sure it works????

The flasher, relay and other wiring connections...are they clean and in good condition???

DUB
Dub, Does the alarm system on these early C3's disable the starter? My 71 is disconnected and it was on my list to at sometime make operable again.
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Old Dec 3, 2013 | 09:09 PM
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Take a look at wiring and connections at the door switches. Take the rear wheels off and take off the access plate located in the wheel-well or u may get lucky and just remove switchs and see if wiring comes out with the switch.

Last edited by 19LEW71; Dec 3, 2013 at 09:14 PM.
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Old Dec 3, 2013 | 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by DUB
QUESTIONS:
Is there any special reason you are wanting to use this alarm system???
(You are aware that if you have it working and energized...and the alarm goes off...it will drain your battery) It is like an 8-track tape player in a Compact Disc world.

I have upgraded alarm systems like this to the newer style so it will at least shut off the horn...and still disable the starter.

Do you have a wiring diagram???

Have you tested the horn to make sure it works????

The flasher, relay and other wiring connections...are they clean and in good condition???

DUB
Dub, I just wanted to use the system and return the car to its glory days...make it as original as I possibly could. I do have wiring diagrams and have ordered the AIM. I am checking each lamp in the circuit, but so far have no power with the fuse replaced.
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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Roco71
Dub, Does the alarm system on these early C3's disable the starter? My 71 is disconnected and it was on my list to at sometime make operable again.
NO...the starter disable or starter enable was not available with this type of alarm system. All it does is make noise....and drain your battery if not turned off.

A factory upgrades system can be installed...if you choose.
But...one good thing is that I have installed the theft deterrent system for a 1986 and I actually wired in the starer enable relay and also installed a lock cylinder in the steering column that requires the correct "chip" in the key to get the car to crank.....and all done with no computer.

DUB
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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by tbayless
Dub, I just wanted to use the system and return the car to its glory days...make it as original as I possibly could. I do have wiring diagrams and have ordered the AIM. I am checking each lamp in the circuit, but so far have no power with the fuse replaced.
Have you check to see if you are actually getting power through the fuse???? These old fuse panels are notorious for losing good contacts and having fuses that fail due to corrosion, dirt, crud, etc. I run into it quite often each year.

I am willing to help you when you are at the car working if you can not figure it out but you will have to call me. I am not going to type for hours on what you need to check...what you may have or have not checked, etc. It would be faster when you are at the car with test light, volt/ohm meter and other tools. One thing is for sure...all contacts and or terminals in the connectors need to be clean.

DUB
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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by DUB
NO...the starter disable or starter enable was not available with this type of alarm system. All it does is make noise....and drain your battery if not turned off.

A factory upgrades system can be installed...if you choose.
But...one good thing is that I have installed the theft deterrent system for a 1986 and I actually wired in the starer enable relay and also installed a lock cylinder in the steering column that requires the correct "chip" in the key to get the car to crank.....and all done with no computer.

DUB
Was there anything special needed to install the VATS lock cylinder into the steering column? I was always under the impression that the columns changed when VATS came out.

Also, I assume by no computer you don't mean no VATS module? Or do you have a way to match resistances to enable the starter relay that doesn't use the VATS module?
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Old Dec 6, 2013 | 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Amorget
Was there anything special needed to install the VATS lock cylinder into the steering column? I was always under the impression that the columns changed when VATS came out.

Also, I assume by no computer you don't mean no VATS module? Or do you have a way to match resistances to enable the starter relay that doesn't use the VATS module?
Slight modification to the steering column area where the lock cylinder is installed is required for the wires and movement. Also making a spacer due to the length of the lock cylinder is a tad longer. I made mine out of black ABS plastic and it worker great.

NO...the ECM is what I was referring to ( sorry for the confusion)...the VATS module was needed or the system would not work at all.

Creating an entirely new system to replace the VATS module was too costly. I probably could if I wanted to spend time I do not have on designing one.

DUB
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Old Dec 6, 2013 | 05:48 PM
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Thanks, DUB. Great information there.

I am looking into installing a 98-02 F-Body BCM in the 81, your post inspired me.
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Old Dec 6, 2013 | 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Amorget
Thanks, DUB. Great information there.

I am looking into installing a 98-02 F-Body BCM in the 81, your post inspired me.
WHY???? Why do you need the BCM????

Now you have my curiosity going.

DUB
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Old Dec 6, 2013 | 07:42 PM
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Major reason, the power retention feature. I really loved being able to turn off the car, finish the song I was listening to with no interruption, roll up the windows and then continue on my merry way. Also, remote keyless entry with the stock GM key fobs, which I prefer the look of compared to many. The BCM also has the VATS module, which I could incorporate at a later time if I wish, even more so that I'll be running TPI so I could actually make it fully functional.

Since the 81 already has the delayed interior lighting stuff hooking up the BCM should be pretty easy since most of the needed inputs are already in one place.
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Old Dec 7, 2013 | 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by 19LEW71
...Take the rear wheels off and take off the access plate located in the wheel-well or u may get lucky and just remove switchs and see if wiring comes out with the switch...
Wrong switches. The door ajar switches are not involved in the factory alarm. The alarm uses the courtesy light door jamb switches and an under hood switch.
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Old Dec 7, 2013 | 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Amorget
Major reason, the power retention feature. I really loved being able to turn off the car, finish the song I was listening to with no interruption, roll up the windows and then continue on my merry way. Also, remote keyless entry with the stock GM key fobs, which I prefer the look of compared to many. The BCM also has the VATS module, which I could incorporate at a later time if I wish, even more so that I'll be running TPI so I could actually make it fully functional.

Since the 81 already has the delayed interior lighting stuff hooking up the BCM should be pretty easy since most of the needed inputs are already in one place.
AWESOME!!! This is something that I would do if I had the time. Maybe if I got "snowed-in" at the shop for several days. Then I could take the phone off the hook and focus on wiring circuits.

Best of luck with it. If for some odd reason you need to have the BCM overhauled or repaired...let me know via a PM. I know a great company that can do it along with PCM's (ECM's)

DUB
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