Hi all,
I've researched and read a couple posts (including directions from Wilcox), on how to get at the center gauge cluster(I need to replace some gauges). It says it's simple by removing the passenger side dash area first. Remove 3 screws in front- easy enough, 2 on the side-easy, and the center side screws-easy....BUT where are these 'nuts' they are referring to that are not to be totally removed? It does not come out by removing the 3 & 2 screws and enter side screws. Also, do I need to do anything with the air vent?
Thanks!!
mark

 

The nuts are on studs which are about under the radio k ****.

 

Hi Mark,
The gauge bezel has 2 threaded studs along it's bottom that extend through the front edge of the shifter console. (Added, as Pete's picture shows.)
These nuts can be accesses by using a looooooong ratchet extension inserted up along the inside of the shifter console and the transmission tunnel.
You can see the location of the 2 rectangular areas the studs pass through in this picture. This is a 71 console and the nuts don't need to be removed, just loosened.... I'm not sure if the nuts need to be completely removed in 69 or not. This should help you know were to try to get your socket to end up to find the nuts.
There may in fact not be any nuts.... many dashes have been put back together with no nuts in place because of the difficulty in reaching them
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan

 

Thanks for the quick response...however, I may have not properly told my issue. I can not seem to remove the passenger side dash (haven't got to the center yet. Please re-read my original post and looking forward to help on that. THANKS for the center cluster help, it will save me another question!

 

Can you post the link that directs you to the "nuts"?

 

It is just like the diagram you posted. The 'nuts' I am referring to are labeled on your drawing as 1&2 - am I mistaken on those being nuts to remove?
Bottom line: I removed all other screws and it just will not come out.
Thanks again!

 

sounds like you got all the screws out from the pass side dash. The vent is just a slide on, off fit, there are wires connected to the back side on some years that have the flasher on the bottom right side of dash.
If the pass side dash was never out before it may just be STUCK, vinyl
will stick to metal and itself like glue sometimes.
The nuts #1,2 you said are clip nuts for the dash screws and do not get removed.
The center gauge console is very week so don't pull or pry on it. follow petes and alens instructions. don't forget the gauge console has a top center screw that goes into the top dash pad. also it wont come out to far because of the wires.

 

Got it out...!! thanks to everyone out there!

 

I have always found it easier to remove and install the passenger side dash panel after removing the passenger chrome sill plate and the underdash side vent (plastic thingy). There is a little notch in the side of the dash panel that fits in a groove in the side vent. Removing the sill plate allows easy removal of the side vent, and then the dash panel should just fall out.

As many times as I have had mine out, I am not about to put the two nuts back on the studs under the center shifter panel.

Ralph.

 

FOR WHAT IT IS WORTH:

I have installed so many shift consoles, center gauge clusters and so on that I have found on the 1968-1976...especially and air conditioned car and/or with fiber optic harness...or even a non-air car....that I actually attach the center gauge cluster to the shift console first. Carefully install the fiber optic harness. Then I begin to slide this assembly into place....and then get the control assembly for the air or non air installed by tilting it in place....then if I need to...run the fresh air vent cables to where they need to go...because I have already had them installed. Connect all connections to the radio and gauges and oil pressure line if needed.

I do it this way and I have found it is a bit tedious...but it goes in faster than fighting with those two nuts that go on the studs in Pete's photo....especially an A/C car. I have tried numerous ways...and if the shift console is new...I have not yet found the configuration of extensions and swivel sockets to get the job done quickly enough for me. If the shift console is broken...but still together...then the extension way works perfectly due to being able to pull back on the side of the shift console and get right at them.

Allan, If you have the magical set-up...I would love to see it....I have tried, and tried, and tried and given up using extensions. The vacuum tubing and wiring always gets in the way of re-assembly.

DUB

 

Wish you had posted a day earlier! Since it was 75* yesterday I changed out my console, your way sounds like the best way to do it.
Regards, Pete.

 

Someone on the forum suggested replacing the console nuts with wing nuts. The nuts where missing on my 68 so I replaced them with wing nuts which reduced console movement. I've had the console out several times since and I'm able to reach the wing nuts with my hands.

 

Hi,
I've had success reaching up from this location with a combination of a deep socket, a short extension, a swivel, and the long extension.
The screw that holds the side of the shifter console needs to be removed so the console and be pulled to the side slightly.
You can look in from the front of the console to guide the socket.
It's not easy.
Regards,
Alan

 

"Barrel nuts" could also be used in place of the OEM nuts.

A standard nut is approx. 1/4" thick........a barrel nut the same wrench size can be purchased in any thickness (length) from 1/2" long to 3" long....

then the nut would actually extend down so that a ratchet/etc would be easy to use without having all those extensions/swivels/etc.

The barrel nuts could also be started by hand much easier.

 

Reading in the service manual about removing and replacing the center bezel seems easy, but it's a bit more complicated in real life. My2ndvette had all the screws out and the panel was still stuck. That happens at times and and I've wondered should I pull harder and hope nothing breaks? As a hobby I like to tinker and think that 'I can do that'. KNOT!

About a week ago I removed the seats, the PB and shifter console and used as, Alan said, a deep socket to get to the nuts. Got the new parts in and have wing nuts started on the bottom studs. I have to replace some bulbs so the gauge cluster is my next mission. Barrel nuts sounds like another good suggestion.

Pete

 

Hi Pete,
As you said the MOST important consideration in all this is how extremely fragile the gauge cluster bezel is.
There is simply NO warning if you begin to push on the top of it while it's lower 2/3rds is still fastened or stuck in place. It makes just a tint 'pop' as it breaks.
Regards,
Alan

 

Alan71,

I have tried your way...and I can get them off...but I just do not have the "mojo" to get them back on. I prefer the factory nuts with eh spinning washers myself.

By the way...I modify and strengthen/reinforce the gauge bezel so it will not break (where they all do) JB weld and bent steel does it every time. Can not be seen when completed from the outside and does not effect fit from the sides either.

DUB