removing 69 rear wheel spindle
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 262
Likes: 0
From: Roanoke Va.
removing 69 rear wheel spindle
Working on a 69. Trying to remove rear wheel spindles since that seems like the only way to access parking brake "hardware". Previous owner has removed parking brake shoes and hardware along with rear cable. Kinda glad I'm into it this far because when you spin rotor/hub on drivers side, it turns with jerky pressure. Like the end play is way too tight and/or wheel bearings are shot. Gotta get spindles off but it seems like I am missing something or doing something wrong. I have read book and have everything necessary removed but puller is not removing spindle. It seems very tight. Tight enough to actually bend the inside of the trailing arm with puller. Is there something I am missing or are they usually this tight? Any suggestions welcome.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 14,380
Likes: 6,391
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
The spindles are pressed onto the bearings with a pretty substantial press fit. If you add a little corrosion to that, the chances of pulling the spindles out with a puller are pretty slim: You have to use a press to get those out. If your bearings are making noise, it sounds like you're due for a complete rebuild - you can remove the entire spindle/bearing/housing assembly from the trailing arm and leave the arm in the car and then press the assembly apart. If you haven't done the operation before, you might be best off sending your spindles to Van Steel for a proper setup (and installation of the parking brake components). If everything is OK and you don't need bearings, you can, in fact, populate the parking brake components into the bearing/spindle assembly with some patience without removing the spindle.
Lars
Lars
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
Panhead59,
Using a puller against the trailing arm is NOT the way to do this. I do them all the time and I use a specifically made press...or a tool that attaches to the end of the spindle and knock them out...which is not easy at times also. Just be aware that it takes specific tools to do the rear wheel bearing and achieve the correct run-out. Now you can make home-made tools like some have to keep the cost down...But I have the correct tools due to I do many of them yearly. Also..even if you get them apart...and back together again with the run-out correct...and you go and check the run-out of your rotor...do not be surprised that the spindle might actually have been bad and not true. This is why I always check the spindles on my bench center before I go and re-install it again. You might want to take a good look at your trailing arm bushing also.
DUB
Using a puller against the trailing arm is NOT the way to do this. I do them all the time and I use a specifically made press...or a tool that attaches to the end of the spindle and knock them out...which is not easy at times also. Just be aware that it takes specific tools to do the rear wheel bearing and achieve the correct run-out. Now you can make home-made tools like some have to keep the cost down...But I have the correct tools due to I do many of them yearly. Also..even if you get them apart...and back together again with the run-out correct...and you go and check the run-out of your rotor...do not be surprised that the spindle might actually have been bad and not true. This is why I always check the spindles on my bench center before I go and re-install it again. You might want to take a good look at your trailing arm bushing also.
DUB
Last edited by DUB; Dec 9, 2013 at 06:23 PM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 262
Likes: 0
From: Roanoke Va.
Thanks guys. Sounds like this job is best left to the pros. I'm about ready to put in a "new" 427 so I guess I'll take it to someone experienced in this procedure once I'm ready. Thanks again.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,088
Likes: 181
From: NC
2022 C2 of the Year Finalist - Modified
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