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Cant think of about any crate motor that doesnt have an overseas part in it somewhere, shoot many GM parts brand new are outsourced.
Heck if it holds together on a dyno should be good to go.
Beats using 40 yr old parts that have been rebuilt god knows how many times save for certain items. Just my .02
Do you change the oil and filter before you ship them out? Also, on the one-piece rear main seal engines, do you finish machining the fuel pump boss, so an engine driven fuel pump can be used?
ScottyP99,
Actually when we ship our engines we prefer to ship them dry, they will not have any oil or an filter on the engine. As far as the one piece rear main seal engines I assume you are looking at the SBC engines, and yes all of them will be setup for a mechanical fuel pump boss.
Scott
Originally Posted by Solid LT1
Lots of Chinese parts on that 383 hope they have solved all their valve train problems....based on what we expirenced in the past we refuse o go there in our builds. Go to Church light a candle and say a prayer....
Solid LT1,
I am sorry you had issues in the past with some of the valve train on one of our engines. I would really like to get that fixed for you because any problem like that would be covered under our 30 month 50,000 mile warranty.
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
I;ve been around this sh*t for 40years and I can count on one hand and still have fingers left over that anyone got another engine or repaired engine when one fails. If you have to send it back it's on your dime and 99% they will "find" some thing that you as the end user have done to make the engine fail.
Do yourself a favor and get one built locally that way you can poke them with a stick if something goes wrong, right upfront you can get them to agree that you can be present when they tear it down if it fails.
With regard to break in or dyno testing it's easy to find out if it's been fired before, the easy one is to stick your finger up the exhaust port with some paper towel wrapped around, if it's been fired up there will be exhaust dust all over it. If it's clean it ain't been fired.
I;ve been around this sh*t for 40years and I can count on one hand and still have fingers left over that anyone got another engine or repaired engine when one fails. If you have to send it back it's on your dime and 99% they will "find" some thing that you as the end user have done to make the engine fail.
Do yourself a favor and get one built locally that way you can poke them with a stick if something goes wrong, right upfront you can get them to agree that you can be present when they tear it down if it fails.
With regard to break in or dyno testing it's easy to find out if it's been fired before, the easy one is to stick your finger up the exhaust port with some paper towel wrapped around, if it's been fired up there will be exhaust dust all over it. If it's clean it ain't been fired.
I wish I could agree with you on getting a local engine builder. Problem is, that no matter who you call, they will tell you that they are a great engine builder with years of experience. Am I supposed to believe that? I am to the point of trusting nobody but myself, and that sucks, cause I have to learn it all the hard way. Every place you find online makes big claims, ...Skip White, CNC Motorsport, on and on. Everybody thinks of themselves as the best. In the end, I have found out the hard way, that you just can't believe it.
Blueprint is a supporting vendor here.
I have no doubt I'll get all the support I need.
Hell, I would like to be the guy who puts an end to some of this Blueprint bashing
So I'm gonna get the roller cam 383 in a week or 2 (gotta get thru Christmas! ) and I'll document every bit of the purchase, install, break in, and final results.
I am sorry you had issues in the past with some of the valve train on one of our engines. I would really like to get that fixed for you because any problem like that would be covered under our 30 month 50,000 mile warranty.
Sorry if it looks like I'm speaking about your product I am not! I work out of a Northern California Auto Machine shop. I have no idea of the current state of quality of off shore sourced parts for Gen1 Chevy motors. My opinions are based on experiences from the early 2000s when these products first came to market. I won't use these products in motors I assemble for myself or customers but, it's a free country to do as one chooses. I try to chose to try to support the manufacturing base of North America (can't even say USA anymore)
I think this forum sponsor is trying to do a good job and prices are certainly affordable. I was speaking more in terms of the motor the original poster linked to that was from a different shop than Blueprint Engines, it seems to have many foreign parts on it. If that is what someone wants o put into their Corvette which to me is a symbol of American Excellence that is their choice.
What I can add to what LT1 is saying, is that I purchased the ATK rebuilt GM block that is included in the Skip White motor. I actually bought it from Summit, but ATK provides it to both. On inspection, three of the cam bearings were not centered in the webs, something I could correct. I then measured the main crank bearing bores, and they were all aligned bored out of limits. Combine that with the brand new Scat crankshaft being overground to close to limits, my main bearing clearance was at 038. This was on NEW parts. I could have had the main bearing cap reground, but why do this on what is supposed to be ready to go. It made me lack confidence in any of the machining done on the block.
So, this is my problem with trust. I chose to buy a GM ZZ4 shortblock brand new, and I only hope it is built right.
What I can add to what LT1 is saying, is that I purchased the ATK rebuilt GM block that is included in the Skip White motor. I actually bought it from Summit, but ATK provides it to both. On inspection, three of the cam bearings were not centered in the webs, something I could correct. I then measured the main crank bearing bores, and they were all aligned bored out of limits. Combine that with the brand new Scat crankshaft being overground to close to limits, my main bearing clearance was at 038. This was on NEW parts. I could have had the main bearing cap reground, but why do this on what is supposed to be ready to go. It made me lack confidence in any of the machining done on the block.
So, this is my problem with trust. I chose to buy a GM ZZ4 shortblock brand new, and I only hope it is built right.
I'd be interested in the same inspection on the GM engine.
I wonder if they are anywhere near perfection?
I'd be interested in the same inspection on the GM engine.
I wonder if they are anywhere near perfection?
I think you are going to an extreme to say that asking for main bearing bores to be bored within limits, and a brand new Scat crank to be ground close to correct dimensions, is asking for perfection. The end result of this combination, sold to me by this vendor, was essentially worn out before I started, and would have required taking it to be remachined, at additional dollars, to make it within limits.
I do have concerns that my MADE IN MEXICO GM short block is built as well as GM should build engines, but I figured it was a better bet than what I had wasted money on thus far.
Good thing was that Summit agreed to refund my money, and Skip White only charged me a restocking fee. I still lost close to $500 in that and shipping charges.
As far as the one piece rear main seal engines I assume you are looking at the SBC engines, and yes all of them will be setup for a mechanical fuel pump boss.
Have you thought about mentioning this on your website and advertising? It's an issue for many of us who would like to upgrade to a one-piece rear main seal engine, but don't want to install an electric fuel pump. It could be a good selling point for you.
Here's my thought on the 383 they offer. A lot of the parts say forged this or forged that. Which is good BUT they don't mention a brand. So that kinda worries me. Also the price of their aluminum heads corresponds to the price of procomp heads which we all know someone that has probably bought a set and learned you get what you pay for. As far as local builders all claiming they are the best, I chalk that up to them attempting to sell themselves. There's a few builders around my area and some are good at this but not so good at that. From my experience the shop that will spend quality time with you and what not would be my choice. There's a shop that I use that went out of their way to look things up to help me so I wouldn't spend money that I didn't have to
Here's my thought on the 383 they offer. A lot of the parts say forged this or forged that. Which is good BUT they don't mention a brand. So that kinda worries me. Also the price of their aluminum heads corresponds to the price of procomp heads which we all know someone that has probably bought a set and learned you get what you pay for. As far as local builders all claiming they are the best, I chalk that up to them attempting to sell themselves. There's a few builders around my area and some are good at this but not so good at that. From my experience the shop that will spend quality time with you and what not would be my choice. There's a shop that I use that went out of their way to look things up to help me so I wouldn't spend money that I didn't have to
i bought a set of bare pro comp heads and got a lot of value. i did not buy them assembled, but had them finished by someone extremely competent with components i picked out. companies like Dr j's offer a few heads based on pro comps. they have an excellent reputation . i wouldn't buy AFR heads assembled, those guys make a mistake now and then too.
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Originally Posted by iwasmenowhesgone
I wish I could agree with you on getting a local engine builder. Problem is, that no matter who you call, they will tell you that they are a great engine builder with years of experience. Am I supposed to believe that? I am to the point of trusting nobody but myself, and that sucks, cause I have to learn it all the hard way. Every place you find online makes big claims, ...Skip White, CNC Motorsport, on and on. Everybody thinks of themselves as the best. In the end, I have found out the hard way, that you just can't believe it.
Go to a drag strip and ask which engine builder is best in you neck of the woods. Ask a whole bunch of guys and if one name comes up way more than the others, there's your shop
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
We all know that you get what you pay for, most of the time. I paid the extra $$$ for my AFR 195's assembled. They are sold set up for most HR cams. I checked with Howard's if I needed to change the springs in the 195's. They said the assembled springs would work with their 0.560" HR. Absolutely no regrets on the purchase of the 195's/cam. If you want an engine to last, don't cheap out on the parts and take short cuts on the assembly.
You were one of the lucky ones. A Google search will yield enough for me to not risk the hassle
do your google search and find something less than 5 years old. no question there were issues but most have been solved now. have them assembled by someone competent and you should be fine.
Blueprint is a supporting vendor here.
I have no doubt I'll get all the support I need.
Hell, I would like to be the guy who puts an end to some of this Blueprint bashing
So I'm gonna get the roller cam 383 in a week or 2 (gotta get thru Christmas! ) and I'll document every bit of the purchase, install, break in, and final results.
Just did a search on Summit. 3.75 stroke, forged crank, standard snout, internally balanced. $629 to $1670. Quite a price range. I have seen these at other suppliers for as little as $500 and over $2000. Which one is in a cheap stroker? None of them. They are using an externally balanced crank that is "forged" but a different alloy 4140 for under $400. The same thing can be done with pistons, rods rod and main bolts/studs, heads, valvetrain components ect. If the part descriptions are intentionally vague and the manufacturer is not listed or material is not specified buyer beware. tolerances vary drastically between manufacturers as well as many other variables like forging process, weight, type of balance, hardening or heat treatment process, ect, ect. You get what you pay for sometimes. Stock, reconditioned rods are "forged"
We all know that you get what you pay for, most of the time. I paid the extra $$$ for my AFR 195's assembled. They are sold set up for most HR cams. I checked with Howard's if I needed to change the springs in the 195's. They said the assembled springs would work with their 0.560" HR. Absolutely no regrets on the purchase of the 195's/cam. If you want an engine to last, don't cheap out on the parts and take short cuts on the assembly.