Preparing to undertake the replacement of all the original parts in the (1980/L82/automatic) power steering system(valve,cylinder,pump and hoses). Anyone that might have some tips,suggestions or common problems i might encounter your input would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

Take a few pics of the hose routing and the PS bracket paying special attention to the bolts and spacers if any. Something simple like missing a spacer or bolt will drive you crazy until you look at someone else's car.
Also don't forget bleeding (turning the wheels full left to full right several times with the wheels off the ground and engine running.
If steering starts to turn by itself while on the stands. There's an adjustment that has to be performed. Ill let someone else chime in if that happens.
It's not hard, just take your time and clean it real good before you start if its dirty.

 

It's pretty straight forward, I got my parts from VanSteele, they offer a pretty darned good warranty. Also, to rebuild the cylinder completely, it has to be cut open, otherwise you just get the wiper seal, so you might want to check with whoever you get your parts from and make sure it's done right. If you need it there are papers on the forum from Jim Shea that will help you understand what the parts do and how to balance the valve and bleed the system. Use the right tools and you shouldn't have any problems.

 

I rebuilt the power steering ram and valve, and it was straight forward. The hardest part of rebuilding the ram was getting the old parts out. I layed everything out in the order it was removed, and subtituted the new parts in their place. Be sure to put the seals in the proper orientation as well.

Make sure you get the steering ram c-clip seated. The new gaskets and material are tight and I didn't get the clip well seated. It came out about a week later and shot hydraulic fluid all over the place. I managed to get the car home and reseat the clip.

The power steering proportioning valve was straight forward. Just take your time and be sure to put the seals in the proper orientation as well as place. Once the valve is finished and installed, elevate the front end on jack stands and start the car. There should be a nut in the end of the valve that regulates the flow of hydraulic fluid through the proprtioning valve. The flow should be regulated so that when the steering wheel is in the straight position, the steering linkage is centered relative to the frame. Adjust the position of the linkage by turning the nut either clockwise or counter clockwise.

 

there is a good video on U-tube about replacing the power steering components.you can adjust the valve your self ,no need to pay a shop for doing it .

 

Douglas,

Unless you plan on an NCRS restoration, you really should look at fitting a Borgeson Power Steering Box to your car. This is an integral power box and has the ram and control valve in the box's housing. You do away with the ram, factory control valve and all four hoses that hang under the engine. You need just two Borgeson hoses to connect your pump to the new box.

Instead of full boost at any wheel position and four turns LTL, you have variable boost (i.e. WHEN you need it) and only 2.7 turns LTL. This makes it a much nicer car to drive and the upside is that there are no leaks, unlike the old system.

Use the search function for others here who have done the conversion. The real icing on the cake is that it may well cost you LESS to fit a Borgeson box than to rebuild all of the old steering parts.

Regards from Down Under.

aussiejohn

 

No leaks since install 5yrs ago!! No control valve and hoses under the car.Bolts right up no brackets,steers quicker,looks factory..
[IMG][/IMG]

 

I am actually right in the middle of this now on my 74, along with rebuilding the front suspension. Based on the papers I have found in some other threads by Jim Shea you should fill the pump and turn the steering full lock left then right about 12 - 15 times with the engine off (checking to make sure the fluid level is kept topped up as the cylinder helps pull air out of the system. Then disconnect the ram from the frame and start the engine...this will prevent the steering wheel from spinning wildly if the valve is not correctly adjusted. There is a whole process to adjusting the valve, but ultimately you should be able to move the ram with your hand and feel equal, and very light resistance, in either direction with the engine running. Just to be clear, everything you are doing is with the car up in the air. Now it is safe to hook the ram back up to the frame and start the motor and turn the wheel lock to lock to get any remaining air out of the system. Track down the papers by Jim, they go into much more detail than I can here from memory. Take your time and think about each step before you do it. None of this is hard...well maybe getting the power steering control valve off the pitman arm is...but there are plenty of written and video sources to help you.

John

 

I would add one additional tip. Refill your power steering system, (regardless if it is the original parts or the Borgeson) with genuine GM power steering fluid. It is the amber fluid available at most GM dealerships.
Original GM Fluid:
GM 89020661
AC Delco 89021182

I do not recommend the new GM common power steering and automatic transmission fluid 88861037. The old original GM PS fluid still works best.
Jim

 

Can any of you guys who have done the Borgeson swap tell me what the difference is in measurement from the inside of the frame rail to the outside of the box (the side of the box closest to the engine) between the stock steering box and the Borgeson? Will it fit on a BB car?

 

I wonder if you looked into a Rack and pinion conversion ?

 

with all that stuff out now would be the time to adjust your steering box.

 

Questions:

1) How is the steering, now?

2) Why do you want to replace it? (leaks, performance, just age)

There is nothing 'wrong' with refreshing the P/S system. But, if your only problem is some leakage, why not just fix the leaks...at least, until you experience a functional problem with the P/S system?

If you decide to repair/replace it, first decide if you need to have your steering box rebuilt (or not). If you do, just purchasing the Borgeson box may be your best alternative. It replaces all the stock P/S components and will be simpler to install. BUT, if your steering box is working well now, perhaps you can save a LOT of money by just rebuilding the other components you now have. The rebuild kits for the control valve and ram are very inexpensive and the rebuild is relatively easy, unless you just don't DIY. Also, the 'report card' on purchasing already rebuilt components from the aftermarket parts places is NOT GOOD. Lots of malfunctioning control valves; the remfg. places don't seem to test their work!!

So, several things to consider here. But, my recommendation is keep the stuff you now have...or rebuild it, if your steering box and P/S operation with stock components is acceptable to you. If not, swap to a Borgeson system.

 

I would slow up a bit and put together a list of all the cost of what you want to do rebuilding the stock system. Then compare that cost to a new rack and pinion conversion. May be better off going rack and pinion for cost and advanced functionality. Or might find cost is a bit more but worth it while you have everything apart anyway.

 

I am really only rebuilding my power steering control valve because of the leak. My primary mission was to rebuild the front suspension, but decided to address this leak since I had many of the components off anyway. While this may be the right time to do a Borgeson or R&P install, it is just not in the cards this winter from a financial perspective. You need to consider the costs and what you are looking to accomplish. While I have no doubt that either of these options would improve my car a great deal, I wasn't really dissatisfied with the original setup. I simply want to get rid of the PS fluid spots on my garage floor.

Maybe someday I will upgrade the steering, but it is not high on the priority list at the moment. The point is, if you want to upgrade your steering system, do it...only you can determine what issues are important to you and in what order they should be resolved. My to-do list is so long that I will be busy for the next several years.

John

 

Although you didn't clearly state it, you seem to be saying that the stock system is operating OK, but it has a leak.

That being the case, AND since the components are off the car anyway, you should perform inexpensive rebuilds of the control valve and the seals at the piston end of the assist cylinder. In addition, I would HIGHLY recommend that you replace the hydraulic hoses; that is usually the source for P/S system leakages. Doing only that (and possibly replacing the P/S belt, if it is old and cracked) would completely refurbish your system for less than $100. You can get rebuild kits for the control valve and cylinder from most of the aftermarket Corvette parts places. I would buy the hoses locally, so that you can easily return them, if there is a problem.

You should also check the condition of your 'ragjoint' coupling on the end of the steering column. If that deteriorates, it affects steering stability/safety. That can be rebuilt easily, also. Refurb all of the components except for the flex disc, which can be replaced.

If you use the correct method, you can safely exchange the grease inside of the steering box, also. If you think you want to do this, PM me for the procedure.

 

Thanks for the replies. What is the fluid capacity for the entire (original) power steering system?

 

I have another tip for you - do NOT overtighten the hose connections to the valve, you can easily crack the valve casting. I had a leaking valve on a brand new steering system when I bought my '80 a few years ago, and tracked it down to the problem described above.

 

Jim,
At my dealer we only use the Cold climate fluid, which is part number 12345867 and it's green. This is what I have in my Borgeson conversion because I have a ton of it. Is this ok to use too. I've never had a problem with at all.

 

21 fluid oz of power steering fluid is required to fill a completely empty C2/C3 power steering system.

I know that the green, cold climate, power steering fluid was developed and tested by Saginaw Steering Gear Div, GMC back in the early 1980s. I think that it was developed to help solve "morning sickness" complaints that occurred with the change to the new, aluminum, rack and pinion gear housings around that time.

I don't remember the specifics but the fluid would have had to successfully pass extreme durability testing at Saginaw before being released as a fluid for servicing GM power steering systems.

A 32 oz container of cold climate PS fluid is 12345867.
A 16 oz container of cold climate PS fluid is 12345866.

Here is the GM Parts Direct description of the fluid.

-----------------------------
GM PART # 12345867
CATEGORY: Vehicle Care
PACK QTY: 12
CORE CHARGE: $0.00

List Price: $23.86
Price: $12.65
You Save: $11.21 (47%)
DESCRIPTION: COLD CLIMATE POWER STEERING FLUID 32 oz.
PRODUCT DESCRIPTION AND FUNCTION: A partially synthetic power steering fluid with exceptional low-temperature properties and increased oxidation stability.

This product is specifically recommended for extreme cold climate conditions with temperatures below -20¡F. Excellent

low-temperature fluidity.

¥ Minimizes pump squeal

¥ Inhibits corrosion

¥ Non-foaming

¥ Improves power steering response in cold weather GM VEHICLE APPLICATION:

Vehicles equipped with rack-and-pinion power steering systems used in cold climate. Required for Corvette.

Offered as a package quantity of 12.

12345867
--------------------
I think that the statement "Required for Corvette" is most likely refering to the rack and pinion Corvette power steering systems (1984 and later.) But it certainly wouldn't hurt to use it in the earlier systems.

Jim