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Old Jan 2, 2014 | 03:36 PM
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Default Differential Question--

I'm replacing half shafts and universal joints on a 69 BB. Upon removal, I find that one side yoke on the differential moves away from the differential about 5/16 of an inch, (does not come out). The other will not pull away that far. If I push them both in as tight as they go, they bump each other. Is that movement something I should address and if it is, what does that entail? It's a 308 posi.
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Old Jan 2, 2014 | 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by 1969RAY
I'm replacing half shafts and universal joints on a 69 BB. Upon removal, I find that one side yoke on the differential moves away from the differential about 5/16 of an inch, (does not come out). The other will not pull away that far. If I push them both in as tight as they go, they bump each other. Is that movement something I should address and if it is, what does that entail? It's a 308 posi.
5/16? .. that's a lot .. you may have broken a "C" clip, or the groove is worn .. pull cover and inspect it.
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Old Jan 2, 2014 | 07:03 PM
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http://mycorvetterestoration.com/196...p#.UsX6rU2A27Q

http://mycorvetterestoration.com/196...p#.UsX7sE2A27Q



Here is a link to a site that helps to explain the removal of the Rear Diff on early model corvettes.

With it having more play on one side than the other tells me also something is worn and it should be removed and inspected. You can purchase a completed Differential or a rebuild kit from the vendors on this site.

http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corve...1963-1979.html

http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/trans....html?limit=96
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Old Jan 2, 2014 | 07:17 PM
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I researched this very thing a few months ago. There are alot of different opinions out there. Some claim that this is not a big thing and is common to many of our cars, and it is not really a problem. I THINK that this is something I can live with and may fix in the future.
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Old Jan 2, 2014 | 07:25 PM
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It's certainly not a safety issue nor does it affect handling in normal street use. (Flame suit on)

This is an economic issue. If the yoke wears far enough, the dust shield will cut into the diff housing which may cause further damage.

If you do remove the diff to replace the yoke, may as well do a complete overhaul given the amount of work required to access the part.
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Old Jan 2, 2014 | 09:17 PM
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Thank you all for the good info. I did wonder if a hard right turn would tug the yoke further out-possibly requiring that flame suit. It does seem locked in. Does that mean the "C" clip is still in-place, maybe in a worn groove?
I will climb under again soon to see if I can pull the cover. Also thanks for the restoration site and the link to Ecklers--I'm a big fan-ordered my new half shafts w/universals and flange from them just yesterday.
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Old Jan 2, 2014 | 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by 1969RAY
I did wonder if a hard right turn would tug the yoke further out-possibly requiring that flame suit.
The suspension geometry is such that even hard cornering does not generate enough force to pull the yoke outwards. There is a static load of 300 lbs pushing the yokes inwards.

Some have trouble visualizing this.
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Old Jan 2, 2014 | 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 1969RAY
Thank you all for the good info. I did wonder if a hard right turn would tug the yoke further out-possibly requiring that flame suit. It does seem locked in. Does that mean the "C" clip is still in-place, maybe in a worn groove?
I will climb under again soon to see if I can pull the cover. Also thanks for the restoration site and the link to Ecklers--I'm a big fan-ordered my new half shafts w/universals and flange from them just yesterday.
It cannot come out, there is force being applied inward.. by the way, heres another vendor you might check out in the future, http://www.duntovmotors.com/corvette-parts.php .. Tell Edward I sent you

Last edited by fishslayer143; Jan 2, 2014 at 09:54 PM.
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Old Jan 16, 2014 | 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by fishslayer143
It cannot come out, there is force being applied inward.. by the way, heres another vendor you might check out in the future, http://www.duntovmotors.com/corvette-parts.php .. Tell Edward I sent you
Say Fish, Eckler's was a back order of unknown length of time. So went to Duntovmotors. Now I did forget to ask for Edward or to mention your name but Jason was good help. For some reason the parts sat a week before they shipped but today I received two very nice half-shafts with all the trimmings-Spicer universals and 3 inch shafts. Thanks for the recommendation and the knowledge---Steve
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Old Jan 16, 2014 | 07:52 PM
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If it moves 5/16 of an inch your c clips are no longer on the halfshaft likely worn to the c clip groove or past. The reason it does not pull out is because the end of the yoke is mushroomed. The filings of the 1/4 inch of worn halfshaft is now running through all your gears and bearings eating the internals of the differential. This subject comes up every once in a while. I am on the side of rebuilding the differential while as much of the case and internals are salvageable as possible. There are those that say just drive it until it implodes or explodes. Guess it depends on how important having the correct numbers matching rear differential in your 69 BB car is to you. I think it would be important to me.
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Old Jan 17, 2014 | 05:04 AM
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Default differential

mike dyer is a very competent diff. rebuilder
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Old Jan 17, 2014 | 05:37 AM
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Originally Posted by 63mako
If it moves 5/16 of an inch your c clips are no longer on the halfshaft likely worn to the c clip groove or past. The reason it does not pull out is because the end of the yoke is mushroomed. The filings of the 1/4 inch of worn halfshaft is now running through all your gears and bearings eating the internals of the differential. This subject comes up every once in a while. I am on the side of rebuilding the differential while as much of the case and internals are salvageable as possible. There are those that say just drive it until it implodes or explodes. Guess it depends on how important having the correct numbers matching rear differential in your 69 BB car is to you. I think it would be important to me.
I have been reading about diff. repair since the driver's side yoke slid out about an inch when I removed the halfshaft. Since the PO rebuilt the diff., seems like the best possibility is that the yoke retaining clip popped aloose---NOT a good thing to have a clip "floating around" inside the housing.

Also...if I read correctly....the repair can be made with the diff. in place----remove the cover and make the repair (unless the entire diff. needs a rebuild). Since I removed the complete suspension assembly for cleaning/painting---I'll remove the cover and make internal repairs / replace external seals since the car has not been driven in 15 years.

(I can't see driving a car until a component explodes either....and I'm a rookie!)
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Old Jan 17, 2014 | 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by 1969RAY
Say Fish, Eckler's was a back order of unknown length of time. So went to Duntovmotors. Now I did forget to ask for Edward or to mention your name but Jason was good help. For some reason the parts sat a week before they shipped but today I received two very nice half-shafts with all the trimmings-Spicer universals and 3 inch shafts. Thanks for the recommendation and the knowledge---Steve
No problem.. I send them lots of customers . The Guys at Duntov are very helpful. If its for a 63-82 Corvette, THEY HAVE IT .they get tied up sometimes when its Race Season with their Race Car. .If you decide to rebuild later, they have kits with complete instructions and will even walk you thru, over the phone if you run into trouble Glad you got what you need.
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Old Jan 17, 2014 | 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by doorgunner

Also...if I read correctly....the repair can be made with the diff. in place----remove the cover and make the repair (unless the entire diff. needs a rebuild). Since I removed the complete suspension assembly for cleaning/painting---I'll remove the cover and make internal repairs / replace external seals since the car has not been driven in 15 years.

(I can't see driving a car until a component explodes either....and I'm a rookie!)
You can't remove just the cover with the diff in the car.

About 'exploding diffs'- I think someone is exaggerating. The metal filings and bits settle to the bottom of the housing and sit there, not circulate continuously.

The usual effect of running with worn yokes is the outer dust seal shield touching the diff housing- but this might take 30-50K miles to occur.
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Old Jan 17, 2014 | 11:14 AM
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I can't believe anyone on this forum is still giving money to duntovmotors. Do a search, they are crooks. Most of their parts will fail in short order. I lost $600 to them.
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Old Jan 17, 2014 | 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by zwede
I can't believe anyone on this forum is still giving money to duntovmotors. Do a search, they are crooks. Most of their parts will fail in short order. I lost $600 to them.
Really? That's Funny, Mine is 5 years old behind 525HP.. never had an issue. I know at least 2 dozen others with their differentials as far away as Switzerland . None have had any problems.. What exactly did you buy for $600 ? it certainly wasn t a Differential .
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Old Jan 17, 2014 | 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike Ward
You can't remove just the cover with the diff in the car.

About 'exploding diffs'- I think someone is exaggerating. The metal filings and bits settle to the bottom of the housing and sit there, not circulate continuously.

The usual effect of running with worn yokes is the outer dust seal shield touching the diff housing- but this might take 30-50K miles to occur.
I agree.. maybe theres no gravity in that one persons car that keeps circulating clips .
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Old Jan 17, 2014 | 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by fishslayer143
Really? That's Funny, Mine is 5 years old behind 525HP.. never had an issue. I know at least 2 dozen others with their differentials as far away as Switzerland . None have had any problems.. What exactly did you buy for $600 ? it certainly wasn t a Differential .
Outer spindles, diff yokes and strut rods. After a few thousand miles:

2 of the strut rod bushings were gone. Metal on metal. The other 2 had about 1/2 the rubber gone.

The spindles had twisted and were about to snap in half (inferior steel).

The yokes were twisted as well as severely worn. They were apparently not hardened. Wear as over 0.050" in just a few thousand miles.

I tried contacting them several times and was ignored. So now I warn people to stay away.
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Old Jan 17, 2014 | 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by zwede
Outer spindles, diff yokes and strut rods. After a few thousand miles:

2 of the strut rod bushings were gone. Metal on metal. The other 2 had about 1/2 the rubber gone.

The spindles had twisted and were about to snap in half (inferior steel).

The yokes were twisted as well as severely worn. They were apparently not hardened. Wear as over 0.050" in just a few thousand miles.

I tried contacting them several times and was ignored. So now I warn people to stay away.
I find it a little hard to believe you twisted 2 spindles and 2 yokes .. how much HP do you have? and considering as many people I personally know have bought parts from them.. If it was a defective strut bushing, that's not something they build. But if this is true, they should have replaced it if it happened within a reasonable time. Sorry if you had a problem, but I know plenty satisfied customers of theirs, me for one
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Old Jan 17, 2014 | 06:15 PM
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Pictures tell all, I think. The yokes are not hardened.

I only drive on street tires. Car has never been on slicks.

A quality vendor would have responded to me and made it right.
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