Happy New Year to all!
I have taken the console apart so I can address some issues:
1. Clock(previous replacement) not working. Also reset not working much either as it slips a lot.
2. Seat belt warning light stays on / push button not working.
3. Cigarette lighter not working. I think no juice.

Questions: What should be hot at all times? The door open lights seem to be the only thing. I assume the clock? Maybe my clock works as it does not appear to be getting any juice?
What should be working with the ignition switch on? The only things I see are the door ajar indicator and the headlight on indicator.
What would only work with the engine running? How do I test those items with the engine off?

Thanks, Ed

 

You REALLY NEED to get a wiring diagram. Once you do...it will make sense when you look at the fuse panel and study it. ALL the fuses on ONE SIDE will have power to them even with the ignition being OFF. So your brake lights,hazard lights, courtsety/clock/lighter,etc will be "hot". Then...the fuses on the other side of the fuse panel are only "hot" when the key is ON. So the wiper, gauges,turn signals, etc are HOT ONLY with the key ON. It does not a matter if the engine is running or not. Unless you are checking the spark at your plug wires. NOW...the really short fuse in the fuse panel is for your gauge lights...and ONLY becomes HOT with 12V when the headlight switch is pull to the on position.

The center ports (BAT, IGN and ACC) in the fuse pane that you can attach wire terminals to to power up "other" things are getting their power through the fuse beside it. So they are already protected.

The headlights are HOT at all times...BUT they do not have a fuse...they are protected by the fusible link at your starter or by your wiper motor that is taped out of the harness.

Any bit of advice I can give you is that if you do not have one...obtain a wiring diagram and VERIFY that your wiring is correct. I am mainly concerned about ALL of the fusible links that GM provided in the harness for PROTECTION. I can not tell you how many Corvettes I work on yearly that has had someone who does not know a damn thing about wiring and they cut out a damaged /burnt fusible link and join the broken circuit with a wire. When this is dome...there is NO PROTECTION to this circuit. AND if it is a main power feed to the cars electrical system...you have NO protection...and a wring problem can cause a fire. Because many of these power wires are so large in gauge...if they ground out...they can burn for some time before they burn through...which can still cause a fire ...depending on where they are sparking. I have repaired numerous cars where the area that the wire grounded out...burnt the wire back on both sides of the point of contact about 1 foot+...and damaged so many other wires that were beside it in the harness.

DO NOT make a big mistake...and preform your own wiring without performing tests. Making sure your gauge of wire is correct for the distance of wire used along with the amp draw on the wire...and your methods for the repair is/are correct. All connectors are crimped, soldered and shrink-wrapped. All wiring is soldered and shrink-wrapped.....some times the shrink wrapping is doubled or tripled up for protection. Just a bit of PROFESSIONAL ADVICE . Because 98% of the electrical repair issues I encounter were performed by someone had no business touching the wiring. I have darn near literally seen it all.

DUB