73 trailing arm bushing
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 21
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From: Near Vermont border Quebec
73 trailing arm bushing
Rebuilding trailing arms , My question is , The last owner had bought the parts back in 1992 to rebuild them but never got to it.
When I went to do it I am having a problem, The bushings that he had dont seem to be the same as they sell today(after checking a few corvette parts places online) My have fixed outer and inner sleeves.
The ones on line dont seem to show any with inner sleeves , And they use washers at both ends.
I have the washers for both ends ,But with the washers and the bushing I have the retainer sleeve that goes inside doesnt seem long enough?
What am I doing wrong?
Thanks Spike
When I went to do it I am having a problem, The bushings that he had dont seem to be the same as they sell today(after checking a few corvette parts places online) My have fixed outer and inner sleeves.
The ones on line dont seem to show any with inner sleeves , And they use washers at both ends.
I have the washers for both ends ,But with the washers and the bushing I have the retainer sleeve that goes inside doesnt seem long enough?
What am I doing wrong?
Thanks Spike
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: North of Toronto - Ontario
That looks pretty much right
The bushings need to be compressed to a specific dimension prior to staking the inner sleeve which holds them in place
You can do it with some home made tools or buy the proper staking/install tools from one of the vendors
M
The bushings need to be compressed to a specific dimension prior to staking the inner sleeve which holds them in place
You can do it with some home made tools or buy the proper staking/install tools from one of the vendors
M
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 11,183
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From: North of Toronto - Ontario
Here's a picture of the typical install tool
It is tightened (the outside bolts) to compress the bushing to the correct thickness. Then the staking is done by striking the center pin
HIH
M
BTW, if you posted your location, someone near you may have the tools or could recommend a shop
It is tightened (the outside bolts) to compress the bushing to the correct thickness. Then the staking is done by striking the center pin
HIH
M
BTW, if you posted your location, someone near you may have the tools or could recommend a shop
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: Near Vermont border Quebec
Thanks so much I see where I went wrong by using your pic of the install tool and did some quick check of the GM parts numbers, I was trying to use a washer on each end..Silly me, the other washer after checking the part numbers are washers for the strut bushings. I see I only use one washer Is this correct?
And I am from Quebec on the Vermont Border
And I am from Quebec on the Vermont Border
Last edited by canadiangold; Jan 5, 2014 at 09:05 AM.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: North of Toronto - Ontario
Unless the GM ones are different....
I've only ever seen ones that have a washer on both sides. Both washers are the same with a large chamfer on the one side. The center sleeve has the flare on the one end that fits into the chamfer on the first washer then the staking flares the other end into the chamfer on the other washer at the other end.
Looking at the picture you posted, the one washer seems right, the other one seems too small (center hole)
Check through your parts again, I think your missing a washer
M
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[/IMG]
I've only ever seen ones that have a washer on both sides. Both washers are the same with a large chamfer on the one side. The center sleeve has the flare on the one end that fits into the chamfer on the first washer then the staking flares the other end into the chamfer on the other washer at the other end.
Looking at the picture you posted, the one washer seems right, the other one seems too small (center hole)
Check through your parts again, I think your missing a washer
M
[IMG]
[/IMG]
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 21
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From: Near Vermont border Quebec
Wow , Thanks so much , I just couldn't get it this morning, I see what has happened , for some reason @ of the washers had changed places, I had one washer from the trailing arm and one from the strut bushing in the same bag, You are right it was too small . it was throwing me off.
Thanks to your get pic of how the set should look, now makes sense.
Thanks so very much . Here is a pic of it straightened out , I think,,,
Thanks to your get pic of how the set should look, now makes sense.
Thanks so very much . Here is a pic of it straightened out , I think,,,
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Scottsdale Arizona
Thanks so much I see where I went wrong by using your pic of the install tool and did some quick check of the GM parts numbers, I was trying to use a washer on each end..Silly me, the other washer after checking the part numbers are washers for the strut bushings. I see I only use one washer Is this correct?
And I am from Quebec on the Vermont Border
And I am from Quebec on the Vermont Border
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Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Jan 2014
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From: Near Vermont border Quebec
CA-Legal-Vette, Thanks so much for the offer , I need to get it put together by April,( have the body off) I don't get down your way very often.
Will order a tool tomorrow, thought about making one, but about the same cost to buy one.
Mooser, Have added it , new to site , lots to learn
Will order a tool tomorrow, thought about making one, but about the same cost to buy one.
Mooser, Have added it , new to site , lots to learn
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 12,692
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From: Scottsdale Arizona
CA-Legal-Vette, Thanks so much for the offer , I need to get it put together by April,( have the body off) I don't get down your way very often.
Will order a tool tomorrow, thought about making one, but about the same cost to buy one.
Mooser, Have added it , new to site , lots to learn
Will order a tool tomorrow, thought about making one, but about the same cost to buy one.
Mooser, Have added it , new to site , lots to learn
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
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From: Charlotte NC
For what it is worth:
Prior to installation...make sure that the trailing arm pivot bolt can pass through the sleeve FIRST. I have 20+ GM sleeves and none of them will allow the bolt to pass through ...so I have to ream each one out every time I do trailing arm bushings.
When you do compress the bushings and stake them....make sure that you file down the possible raised portions of eh sleeve. You are trying to make sure that the sleeve is flush with the outer washer...so the shims can lay flat against the outer washers.
Mooser,
I have done trialing arms for 20+ years and I have not found any data where it states there is a specific compression width. If you have printed GM text..I would love to see it. I have measured the factory bushings I have taken out of Corvettes in the past and there seemed to be no two that were exactly the same. I have always compressed the rubber style bushings to the point where I know I am getting a good staking on the washer. And knowing that there are several thicknesses of trailing arm shims...I have never had an issue in getting the shims to pack tight and get the rear end aligned correctly.
DUB
Prior to installation...make sure that the trailing arm pivot bolt can pass through the sleeve FIRST. I have 20+ GM sleeves and none of them will allow the bolt to pass through ...so I have to ream each one out every time I do trailing arm bushings.
When you do compress the bushings and stake them....make sure that you file down the possible raised portions of eh sleeve. You are trying to make sure that the sleeve is flush with the outer washer...so the shims can lay flat against the outer washers.
Mooser,
I have done trialing arms for 20+ years and I have not found any data where it states there is a specific compression width. If you have printed GM text..I would love to see it. I have measured the factory bushings I have taken out of Corvettes in the past and there seemed to be no two that were exactly the same. I have always compressed the rubber style bushings to the point where I know I am getting a good staking on the washer. And knowing that there are several thicknesses of trailing arm shims...I have never had an issue in getting the shims to pack tight and get the rear end aligned correctly.
DUB
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From: North of Toronto - Ontario
I've only done a couple of sets so I just measured the supplied sleeves and washer chamfers and they worked out to somewhere just under 2-1/4 so I used that.
I doubt I've ever seen the GM requirements either. Seems to me the chassis manual just said basically squeeze and stake.
I agree that the sleeves are not great and can swell some when staking, I had to ream one of the two on the last set I did out to get the bolt to fit even before staking
M
I doubt I've ever seen the GM requirements either. Seems to me the chassis manual just said basically squeeze and stake.
I agree that the sleeves are not great and can swell some when staking, I had to ream one of the two on the last set I did out to get the bolt to fit even before staking
M
Race Director
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From: Charlotte NC
I've only done a couple of sets so I just measured the supplied sleeves and washer chamfers and they worked out to somewhere just under 2-1/4 so I used that.
I doubt I've ever seen the GM requirements either. Seems to me the chassis manual just said basically squeeze and stake.
I agree that the sleeves are not great and can swell some when staking, I had to ream one of the two on the last set I did out to get the bolt to fit even before staking
M
I doubt I've ever seen the GM requirements either. Seems to me the chassis manual just said basically squeeze and stake.
I agree that the sleeves are not great and can swell some when staking, I had to ream one of the two on the last set I did out to get the bolt to fit even before staking
M
I was hoping you had some "techno-data" I could file away.
For a minute there...I was worried that there could have been a specific measurement that I could have been using....but measuring so many and them being different...I figured...squeeze them...stake them...file them and then install.
DUB
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From: North of Toronto - Ontario
No doubt there was a spec at sometime but it would have been at the trailing arm level and likely lost by now.
I did a few searches today (through my books and some online) and didn't come up with anything concrete.
I found Gary R. noted in one post over on DC that he stakes at 2.200 -2.230, that's slightly tighter than my numbers which are closer to 2.225-2.250 (spacers are set at 2.225 long, then they spring back a little, I file them flat and they have been measuring at 2.225 to 2.235 when done.
Don't think it really matters a whole lot as long as they are tight, as I said, I just calculated mine based on the supplied parts.
I'd be curious to see what / if any of the vendors (ie Van Steel) use
M
I did a few searches today (through my books and some online) and didn't come up with anything concrete.
I found Gary R. noted in one post over on DC that he stakes at 2.200 -2.230, that's slightly tighter than my numbers which are closer to 2.225-2.250 (spacers are set at 2.225 long, then they spring back a little, I file them flat and they have been measuring at 2.225 to 2.235 when done.
Don't think it really matters a whole lot as long as they are tight, as I said, I just calculated mine based on the supplied parts.
I'd be curious to see what / if any of the vendors (ie Van Steel) use
M
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From: New Or-leens Loo-z-anna
Thanks for all the info.....trailing arms will be easier to do the first time because of you guys taking the time to share your knowledge....
This thread is going to my new Christmas present right now (a wireless printer located between me and the garage!)
This thread is going to my new Christmas present right now (a wireless printer located between me and the garage!)
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Charlotte NC
I kinda figured there was no specific staking measurement to the thousandth. And I am glad you looked and found nothing concrete. And if it were that critical...knowing when the bushings are being compressed...the outer shells contact themselves...and thus the staking/compressing tool could have a stop made onto it to keep you from over tightening it....such as steel sleeves that go onto the bolts so the two parts of the staking tool can only be pulled together but so much. Heck...I might do that now...thinking of it.
DUB
DUB
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I kinda figured there was no specific staking measurement to the thousandth. And I am glad you looked and found nothing concrete. And if it were that critical...knowing when the bushings are being compressed...the outer shells contact themselves...and thus the staking/compressing tool could have a stop made onto it to keep you from over tightening it....such as steel sleeves that go onto the bolts so the two parts of the staking tool can only be pulled together but so much. Heck...I might do that now...thinking of it.
DUB
DUB
They spring back a little when released and when I file them flat they are 2.225-2.235 flat and parallel, (not that the frame pockets are all that parallel but hey I have no control over that
)M