In continuation of thread, Need more horse power. Im in the process of having installed a motor from Blue print motors. Its # BP35512T1 298717
The engine was rated at 375 hp. The dyno specs. came in at 417 @ 5600 rpm. (I will attach spec sheets)
I work out of town quite a bit so Im trusting a local garage to get the motor installed. I have been using the for a few years now and they have not let me down on this car and my other rides.
With that being said i would have loved to do this on my own but unfortunately time constraints and being on the road a lot I don't get much time.
Since the engine has been removed I figure better have the transmission gone threw to. It's an automatic trans L-48 package. The transmission shop rebuilt it and was told about the motor going in and said they replace the converter with a high performance one made for corvettes? I will find out the specs on this tomorrow.
I purchased the car about a year ago and have gone threw all the electrical, brakes, suspension.
This is the first corvette that i have owned at thought i was getting a good deal on the car. After digging into it there was quite a bit going on with it. I've got almost all of it corrected. There was a time i thought to cut bait but I just couldn't do it. I have become wiser for future purchases. The rear end is stock and I have not changed anything other then bushing and joints.
I hope i have made the right decision in this motor, I'm sure it will be better then the factory Hp.
Thoughts???

 

Sounds like you will have a blast with it...and the horsepower and torque should be an improvement and quite enjoyable. These readings of HP/torque are on an engine dyno at the crank...correct???

DUB

 

Even with all the accessories and a stock exhaust system installed, I think she'd still feel much stronger than a stock L48. Enjoy.

 

Looks like a lot of bang for your buck. 417 HP! yeah you'll feel the difference.
That is less than I paid to re-build my own block. The roller cam 355 has similar specs to my 350 and still only $3400. If it lasts, you're solid.

 

Since the engine and auto trans are out and you likely have a 3.08 rear gear put a 2400 stall convertor in it and do a performance recurve on your distributor. Will make a huge difference in your bottom end and SOP torquometer. Notice the Dyno sheet starts @ 3000 RPM.

 

are you installing a larger gas tank????

 

Thanks for the input..What advantage will a stall convertor give me? The distributor is an O.E.M. A performance recurve not similar with this.

 

No but I have all the gas stations map out on my GPS...LOL

 

Headers will be installed and duel exhaust will be ran. Do you recommend a transfer pipe between the two sides?

 

You are correct sir...

 

Crate engines are a generic build. They are cammed and the compression is set for the most power with the components they are using with no regard to car weight, trans, stall speed of the convertor or rear gear ratio. I see so many people do just what you did only to be disappointed with the end result.

Was your engine dynoed with your carb and distributor?
Your new engine makes great peak power and looks great on the dyno sheet. But your car doesn't start at 3000 RPM like the dyno sheet. As a matter of fact it will spend over 90% of it's life below that. It is a good match for a manual trans with 3.70 gears. It is a mismatch with an automatic with stock convertor and 3.08 rear gearing. Your engine will not have the power or torque of your old engine at lower rpms. This will make throttle response and off the line acceleration worse than your L48. Once you get into the powerband of the cam (likely about 2200 rpm) you will surpass the power the l48 made by an increasingly wider margin as RPM increases. But not being able to roast the tires on launch and getting smoked by a Honda for the first block after you install a 400+ HP engine sucks. So the key is to get into the powerband faster. This is where gearing and a manual trans or higher stall convertor come in.

If your distributor is OEM and has the factory curve your leaving a lot of bottom end and throttle response on the table. You can do a performance recurve your dist for under $20 and a couple hours work.
You also need a vacuum can swap, and some carb jetting changes to actually see the extra power. Email Lars at V8FastCars@msn.com and ask for his most recent recurve paper and vacuum can sheet and instructions.

By raising the stall speed, or slippage, a performance converter raises engine rpm at launch, which increases power at launch. For example, if an engine makes 100 lb-ft of torque at 1,500 rpm and 175 lb-ft at 2,500, which would you rather have? With a higher-stall converter, your engine isn't making any more power, but it's allowing the motor to get to a place where it's happier more quickly.

Read more: http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...#ixzz2qA8KEjtz

 

Thanks I'm on it! I will order the stall converter today (2400) and look into the recurve of the distributor. I hope this motor wasn't a mistake.

 

Looking at getting this B&M 20412 - B&M Holeshot Torque Converters from Summit. thoughts???

 

I've noticed some have locking plates and anti ballooning, are these items needed?

 

"Re-curving the distributor" sounds all scary and technical, and can be intimidating, but it is really a very simple, cheap, effective way to optimize performance and fuel mileage. I would say it's not really any more complicated than changing spark plugs and doing an oil change. Don't be scared!

Scott

 

Most of the time these are used for high horsepower, hard launches - basically racing that puts a big shock on the convertor. The higher stall will likely add heat, so use a good trans cooler.

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tc...make/chevrolet

 

You know. When I built the 400" for my vette I said the same thing, ''I hope this ain't a mistake''. Best money I've ever spent. Power adds so much to the driving experience. good luck with your project.