How often to turn car over
Thread Starter
3rd Gear
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
How often to turn car over
Hello,
I have a question, My vette is not a daily driver, so I would normally only take it out 4 x per year.
how often is it recommended to turn the car over? to keep protect the engine?
Vet71
I have a question, My vette is not a daily driver, so I would normally only take it out 4 x per year.
how often is it recommended to turn the car over? to keep protect the engine?
Vet71
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,503
Likes: 33
From: McGrady NC
St. Jude Donor '15-'16
I would crank it up at least once a month and let it get to operating temp for a few minutes to keep the moisture from building up in the crankcase and circulate the oil well. I'd also run the transmission through the gears, manual or automatic, for the same reason. It may not be necessary but I fell better about it. Pumping the brakes might be beneficial, too.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,503
Likes: 33
From: McGrady NC
St. Jude Donor '15-'16
Differing opinions for sure. Never really heard a definitive answer. I'd be curious for the logic behind each opinion. Mine is to fight condensation. It all may depend on how you are able to store your car. Heated garage vs. outside under a car cover or under an open shelter. I'm very interested!
Racer
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 375
Likes: 21
From: London Ontario
I don't think it matters if all the fluids are in good condition
I disconnect the battery and have a trickle charger
keep the fuel tank full to prevent moisture
If there is a clear/warm day here in the Great White North I drive it around the neighbourhood to exercise the brakes/drivetrain ect.
I disconnect the battery and have a trickle charger
keep the fuel tank full to prevent moisture
If there is a clear/warm day here in the Great White North I drive it around the neighbourhood to exercise the brakes/drivetrain ect.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 15,892
Likes: 42
I would crank it up at least once a month and let it get to operating temp for a few minutes to keep the moisture from building up in the crankcase and circulate the oil well. I'd also run the transmission through the gears, manual or automatic, for the same reason. It may not be necessary but I fell better about it. Pumping the brakes might be beneficial, too.
Shifting the gears on a transmission on a car sitting still does nothing.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,886
Likes: 9
DRIVE THE CAR for at least half an hour twice a month. Otherwise, the engine oil will have dripped down off the top of the engine and out of the lifters and bearings, and when you start it up, it will all be dry.
The trans and diff also need to get to operating temperature, to drive away moisture.
All the systems of the car need to be "exercised" periodically.
The trans and diff also need to get to operating temperature, to drive away moisture.
All the systems of the car need to be "exercised" periodically.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 15,892
Likes: 42
I have personally stripped down engines of all types from lawn mowers to commercial jet engines that have sat for years without being started. Not one of them had dripped dry exposing bare metal to corrosion. 
This is not rocket science.
This is not rocket science.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,241
Likes: 4
From: Okinawa Okinawa
Mike is correct. Unless you are going to go out and drive it and get it up to temp, you are better off letting it sit.
You are actually better off driving more than 4 times a year. I drive mine as often as possible because it is just plain fun.
You are actually better off driving more than 4 times a year. I drive mine as often as possible because it is just plain fun.
2026 Loser of the Year
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 36,595
Likes: 7,043
From: New Or-leens Loo-z-anna
And....it can extend the life of the battery, gaskets, and seals to prevent drips/leaks on the garage floor by driving it more often...as a member suggested---get a battery trickle charger, too.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 3,453
Likes: 67
From: Midland Ontario
NCM Sinkhole Donor
If she must sit; trickle charge the battery, keep the tank filled to keep out moisture, and if you're really particular - put a few extra psi in the tires. You might develop a slight "flat spot" if she sits as long as Mike and mine does every winter, but this usually disappears after the first 20-30 miles. Short trips and idling are the worst things you can do for that engine. If you're feeling worried about her sitting, then as Gunner says, "exercise that girl".
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,714
Likes: 42
From: Austin Texas
I carry a couple of processes from winterizing a boat over to my car if she will be sitting for long periods of time. Regarding the motor, I worry about the fuel gumming things up or going bad and condensation.
If I know it will be out of commission for several months, I add fuel stabilizer to the gas and make sure it has time to circulate through the tank and into the carb. Ideally, like on a boat, I would have a fuel cut off valve and purge the fuel from the carb. I still think about adding a valve between the tank and the hard line.
The next thing I like to do is pull the plugs and spray the cylinders with fogging oil. http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...ont%2ffog.aspx
I think there are many factors and different steps to be taken for each. For example, If it's going to sit for 6 mos or so, I will use fuel stabilizer and try to have a quarter tank or less of gas. Then, before I fire it, I will shot it with fogging oil again and head straight for a gas station and fill up with premium fuel. I worry more about the fuel degradation aspect than condensation in the fuel tank.
If the fuel goes bad, you have 20 gallons of bad fuel to deal with, if condensation forms you could rust the tank or contaminate the fuel... If it can't be drained, best probably to fill her up and add stabilizer.
If I know it will be out of commission for several months, I add fuel stabilizer to the gas and make sure it has time to circulate through the tank and into the carb. Ideally, like on a boat, I would have a fuel cut off valve and purge the fuel from the carb. I still think about adding a valve between the tank and the hard line.
The next thing I like to do is pull the plugs and spray the cylinders with fogging oil. http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...ont%2ffog.aspx
I think there are many factors and different steps to be taken for each. For example, If it's going to sit for 6 mos or so, I will use fuel stabilizer and try to have a quarter tank or less of gas. Then, before I fire it, I will shot it with fogging oil again and head straight for a gas station and fill up with premium fuel. I worry more about the fuel degradation aspect than condensation in the fuel tank.
If the fuel goes bad, you have 20 gallons of bad fuel to deal with, if condensation forms you could rust the tank or contaminate the fuel... If it can't be drained, best probably to fill her up and add stabilizer.
Last edited by johnt365; Jan 11, 2014 at 03:40 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,503
Likes: 33
From: McGrady NC
St. Jude Donor '15-'16
I drive mine so much (except in really bad weather) that I'm apparently not a good source of info. Just doing it that way I was taught and learned over the nearly 50 years I've been messing with vehicles. Perhaps things have changed enough as far as lubricants and such that the old way isn't necessary. It's all good.
Racer
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 254
Likes: 3
From: Tampa Bay Florida
If it's going to sit for 6 mos or so, I will use fuel stabilizer and try to have a quarter tank or less of gas. Then, before I fire it, I will shot it with fogging oil again and head straight for a gas station and fill up with premium fuel. I worry more about the fuel degradation aspect than condensation in the fuel tank.
If the fuel goes bad, you have 20 gallons of bad fuel to deal with, if condensation forms you could rust the tank or contaminate the fuel... If it can't be drained, best probably to fill her up and add stabilizer.
If the fuel goes bad, you have 20 gallons of bad fuel to deal with, if condensation forms you could rust the tank or contaminate the fuel... If it can't be drained, best probably to fill her up and add stabilizer.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 15,892
Likes: 42
Corvettes from the early 70s onwards have sealed gas caps to prevent fuel vapours from escaping. Any 'breathing' required to accommodate atmospheric pressure change is routed via the charcoal canister which effectively prevents moisture from entering.
Not a concern.
Not a concern.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,714
Likes: 42
From: Austin Texas
It wouldn't be a very spirited debate because I agree with you about the concerns over fuel degradation. I think my 3 points would be to
1. Treat the fuel. (I am not an expert and have no opinion on the level in the tank)
2. Drain the carb if possible. (My thinking here is even if you fill up the tank, the carb still has a vent. On boats that sit over the winter, this is standard practice)
3. Fog the cylinders when you put her to bed and when you wake her up. (This attempts to address condensation in the cyls and possible dry start up)
Is all of that necessary if you are going to be driving the car in 3 months anyway? I don't know, maybe it's overkill unless you go 6-9 months or more. I have gone 2-3 months with nothing more than a trickle charger and a shot of starting fluid followed by an afternoon drive.
1. Treat the fuel. (I am not an expert and have no opinion on the level in the tank)
2. Drain the carb if possible. (My thinking here is even if you fill up the tank, the carb still has a vent. On boats that sit over the winter, this is standard practice)
3. Fog the cylinders when you put her to bed and when you wake her up. (This attempts to address condensation in the cyls and possible dry start up)
Is all of that necessary if you are going to be driving the car in 3 months anyway? I don't know, maybe it's overkill unless you go 6-9 months or more. I have gone 2-3 months with nothing more than a trickle charger and a shot of starting fluid followed by an afternoon drive.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 15,892
Likes: 42
All my summer toys sit for 6 months over the winter and the winter toys for six months in the summer.
None of them gets touched while in storage.
Those with batteries gets tenders.
Those with sealed fuel systems get a full tank of fuel, no stabilizer. Those with open fuel systems get drained dry.
Been doing it this way since the 60s. Still have some of the toys from back then. Not rocket surgery.
None of them gets touched while in storage.
Those with batteries gets tenders.
Those with sealed fuel systems get a full tank of fuel, no stabilizer. Those with open fuel systems get drained dry.
Been doing it this way since the 60s. Still have some of the toys from back then. Not rocket surgery.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 30,995
Likes: 99
From: Ontario
My Corvettes have been stored in comfortable (60*F, dry) surroundings for >20 years. They go in late October and come out in late March/early April. This is dead storage: they are not started.
I do fill 3/4 with fresh fuel before and add Stabil or equivalent. The batteries do last 6 months easily if in decent condition. I have never had an engine failure owing to storage.
Last October heading into storage (bad pic).
I do fill 3/4 with fresh fuel before and add Stabil or equivalent. The batteries do last 6 months easily if in decent condition. I have never had an engine failure owing to storage.
Last October heading into storage (bad pic).
Last edited by Paul L; Jan 11, 2014 at 07:08 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,652
Likes: 49
From: Bridgewater nj
If you're in storage more than 6 months. Run the carb dry (pinch off or disconnect gas line) and add stable.
If you're in storage for years. Drain the tank!
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 81,241
Likes: 3,063
From: altered state
St. Jude Donor '05
Leave it be it will be fine. I never back my rockers off bump it over run a solid roller also never lost any spring pressure etc. It will be fine. When youre ready turn the key and go. hard to get oil up to temp and burn off the moisture without a load on it.