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could you use a wood spacer ,made from the right wood ?
Wood is too porous...laminated phenolics are pressed wood imbedded with epoxy....standard 2 barrel spacers will work fine.
I plan on going through these carbs and Ultrasonic cleaning them...
They are in great shape and should come out nice....but while they are off....I can fit some spacers under them.....
I went for a ride the other day...and to confirm my suspicions...the carbs were too hot to touch.....
As an engine builder....this has always been very important to me...
I believe that blocking the exhaust crossover in the intake and installing a heat baffle shield underneath the intake to avoid hot engine oil from spraying onto the intake, is worth more than this spacers.
At least it worked on my car. The choke becomes inoperative when blocking the crossover, but who needs it in Texas ?
If you don't plan on starting the car when it is really cold outside, blocking the exhaust crossover channel and adding the splash shield when installing the intake manifold gaskets are the best fixes. Putting an insulating spacer and fiber gaskets under the carbs is the next 'line of defense' against fuel boiling problems in the carbs.
If you don't plan on starting the car when it is really cold outside, blocking the exhaust crossover channel and adding the splash shield when installing the intake manifold gaskets are the best fixes. Putting an insulating spacer and fiber gaskets under the carbs is the next 'line of defense' against fuel boiling problems in the carbs.
I agree.....I am going to pull the intake....soda blast it and put the Fel-Pro blockoff intake gasket on it.....
I haven't crawled down there yet so not sure about the heat riser....I put Mid Americas spacer on the 66'....worked great....brass nuts etc...
Finding out the intake is short than the SHP Tri-Powers is good info...
I have Brodix alum heads on my '69 L71, and they have no exhaust crossover provisions. I took out the flapper valve and used the spacer. I debated what to do with the divorced choke mechanism on the tri power manifold. I received some recommendations here on the Forum to leave the choke alone, it would just warm up slower. That is what I did and once the engine is hot, it makes no difference. In Denver climate, the choke setting upon starting helps to keep things running until warmup. Works fine for me.
I tried to locate a electric choke to install it to the tripower, but ( I think it was Lars ) told me, there is non existing that works the right way around. Electric choke would be great to replace this bimetallic choke.
NOT TRUE, all tri power intakes in 68-69 same height, 67 was when both 400 and 435 intakes higher, only difference in 68-69 is oval or rectangle ports, same in 67, how do I know .. I have owned both.