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I have a little bit of a leak at my steering control valve, pretty sure it is the original. Has anyone just done the kit replacing the seals? OR should I just replace it with a remanufactured/new one?
I have a little bit of a leak at my steering control valve, pretty sure it is the original. Has anyone just done the kit replacing the seals? OR should I just replace it with a remanufactured/new one?
Have you cleaned up everything to make sure that it is the valve and not one of the hoses that leaks? I have overhauled the valve successfully and would suggest if you want to do this that you do both ends whilst you are at it (there are two kits, one for the valve end, one for the ball socket end) There are some excellent instructions and video of how to rebuild the valve available from at least one of the site vendors. I used a pitman arm puller to remove the arm rather than a pickle fork, it seemed easier to me than flogging away with a hammer when I didn't have much room to work. Check the hoses carefully,if they have been there as long as the valve it may be worthwhile replacing these too (while you're at it disease). Pay particular attention to instructions for bleeding the steering after reassembly and balancing the valve.
I have a little bit of a leak at my steering control valve, pretty sure it is the original. Has anyone just done the kit replacing the seals? OR should I just replace it with a remanufactured/new one?
Hey Alex, it is pretty easy to rebuild. I did it a while ago but haven't gotten a chance to test it out as you know the current status of my vette. I would try the kit since it is pretty cheap.
Leakage is most likely from a hose or hose fitting. Check carefully to make sure what is leaking before you attempt to repair it.
If the control valve is leaking, I would recommend buying the seal kit and rebuilding your original valve. You know that works; not the case with a "rebuilt" unit.
My car had sat for a long time before I bought it and the seals were absolutely shot. I went ahead and rebuilt both sides, and a good thing too, as the ball cups were broken on that side. I had never done anything like that before but ut was straight forward. Like the other replies, I recommend you do both sides.
Just make sure you get the seals oriented correctly. I didn't and fluid leaked badly between the hydraulic and mechanical portons of the valve. Onec your fnished, you'll have to adjust the idle position of the valve using the nut on the end, but that's easy too. Unless you're sure the ram is in good shape, I would consider rebuilding it as well. I believe a seal kit is around $15.00.
I have had 3 years of good luck and performance with a rebuilt control valve unit. I sent them my original core, bolted it on, and attached new hoses. Also replaced my pump with a new pump, still using the original ram. Power steering works and sounds flawless.
So its your choice.... rebuild or replace. Either way works in my .00002c
If a purchased rebuilt unit works when received, there is no problem. But a significant number of folks have reported that their 'new' rebuilt unit didn't function properly and/or leaked when installed.
If you know that YOUR control valve functions fine, your odds are better if you rebuild yours. Just sayin'....
P.S. It is a good idea to rebuild the rod seal on the end of the assist cylinder while you are in there. It is a pretty simple task, once you are able to pry the old seal out. There is nothing to rebuild inside the cylinder; if it works, it's good.