Hi folks,
I'm looking for feedback on repairing a 68 convertible windshield frame. Mine has major rust on the winshield side but the inner windhield framing is solid ( in side the interior seating area). I have read repair instructions that reference using a jig to maintain the dimensions of the frame, welding the jig in place and then cutting out all the rusted sections completely. I don't have access to such a jig. Instead, I wanted to know if anyone has ever tried drilling out all the spot welds on the windhield header and pillars, separated the metal on the winshield side and then welded in new pieces by again drilling out the spot welds and separating the seams from new sections and using only the sections that contact the windshield. That way the original framing is still there to work with as opposed to removing it all and running the risk of things going back together in the wrong dimensions. would this seem to be able to work?

 

I do not believe the frame will come apart as you described. Before you tackle the WS frame I would make sure you do not have bigger problems below where all water would have run to. If not lower birdcage issues then I would think you could a cutting wheel to remover the bad areas a section at a time and repair before moving to the next section. This way you keep the structure intergrity of the entire frame.

 

We had to replace the top corners on our 71. We ground down the welds instead of drilling.
For a jig, you could spot weld a rod, a square or round tube, or whatever you have... at an angle from the top header to the side post. That should keep it from moving while you cut or grind the back side off.
But, keep in mind that the repair sections will also have to be separated before you could weld them in.
Repair sections come for corners, top section, and side posts.
We only did corners, then welded in sheet metal along the top to patch a few small holes.

 

Hi M,
WELCOME! First Post!!! Glad you're here.
Sorry your first post needs to be about rust!
If you decide to take (drill out the spot welds) the windshield frame apart, rather than cutting it apart, I agree with gto that buying the replacement sections readily available, (header, corner, sides), seems like a good way to proceed.
Good luck,
Regards,
Alan

 

You need to support it if you are going to remove the header and the corners.... You might check this link out. http://willcoxcorvette.com/repairand...lp.php?hID=306

Can you post pictures of the damage?

 

Just finished doing this on my coupe. It is not a walk in the park. Have the fridge stocked with your favorite beverage. You need to be patient and take your time. You are not going to tackle this in a weekend, at least I didn't.

Allen is right that that the best way to disassemble is by cutting the spot welds. You can drill them out but a spot weld cutter works better. You can get these online at Eastwood or you can buy them at Harbor Freight which is what I did. Buy a few. They are cheap. The biggest thing you have to worry about is ensuring that you get the replacement piece into exact anotomical alignment. With the coupe you have the t-top center bar so it is a little easier. I built a jig to measure the corner alignment and height. Take lots of reference measurements before you start cutting spot welds.

The AIM has a page that indicates the location of the spot welds on the frame corners, etc. I found that the AIM was fairly accurate but there were some extra spot welds. Lots of spot welds to cut so have an extra battery pack on hand. I used an pneumatic drill.

 

Be prepared to do some massaging of the replacement parts because, despite what some claim, they are not a perfect fit. The top piece that I got was tweaked on the ends which I had to twist into shape on the vice. The ends also required allot of work to get them to line up with the posts. The ends were bubbled out and I cutting them and welding in sheet stock to get them to fit right.

 

In addition to the need to massage the parts to get them to fit, with the exception of the captive nuts for the mirror, the head bar comes completely blank with no holes for any of the trim or interior pieces, pillar corners, etc. I got everything tacked into position, drilled holes and then fitted the corners followed by a test fit of the stainless. In the course of doing so, I discovered that the channel on top was a little to wide and tall in a couple of spots. I referenced the old header piece quit a bit to compare to the new one to figure how to trim it. The spots where the visors mount in the center of the car have captive nuts for the visor screws. I cut these from the old frame to transplant onto the new header.

 

With the help of a buddy, I set the windshield in to make sure all was good. Once the fit checked out, welded the corners into place.

 

Then finished up drilling the rest of the interior holes followed by a test fit and then drilled and installed the trim clips. Order new clips and screws ahead of time. The old ones will be no good. Then a final test fit of everything.

 

Wow! This is more intense than I was expecting. I do like the spot weld cutter idea. I think I will try a combination approach of welding in a cross section support, take multiple measurements, replace small sections at a time, and test fit the windshield and convertible top often. Thanks for the welcome to the site and all the helpful advice.

 

One more question, was your jig actually welded to the top crossmember? In the photos it looks like the pieces you welded in were used just as markers for the angles of the crossmember to line up with - is that correct? Maybe you have a photo of the crossmember with the jig still in place?

 

I did not weld the jig to the header. In hindsight the jig on the front side of the frame was really not that critical and probably not needed. The jig that located the height and position of the corners turned out to be the most important. Test fitting the top before welding is a good idea. I test fitted my t-tops as part of the process before welding. Now get to it.

 

I have to go back in and redo part of mine because my measurement was off on the tee-top centre. Measure the crap out of everything, and document the hell out of it.

Test fit EVERYTHING multiple times, almost to the point of complete re-assembly (all of the trim, the tops, everything).

 

I had the header and top corners replaced on my 70, done by a local Corvette shop. They found a donor piece, cut the spot welds, transferred the header with corners still in place to the pillars on my car. Came out just fine, no issues with repro parts, misalignments, etc.

 

wow... looking great.... 1 question, what are you going to use to fill the top channel with. I took the cracked tar like stuff out of mine and cant seem to find what others are using. I'm going to be putting my windshield in soon.

thanks..

Tim

 

I'm kinda in the same boat. My car is going off to paint here in the next week or so. Not sure what to fill the channel with. Thought about maybe trying expanding crack filler and then shaving the top off with a blade of some type. Any suggestions from others would be helpful.

 

I have the old fram section that I cut out. I'll do some experimenting.

 

tom00799 ...I AGREE with ALL of what you have shown and mentioned.

The frame parts at the ends of the top bow where they meet with the pillar posts is a disgrace and it does take time to get it fit correctly so the outer corner molding fit correctly....and there is actually enough steel so you can screw your pillar post weatherstrip in place at the top as designed.

ONE THING I need to add to those who do this.

AS we all know...most of these Corvettes have been damaged in one way shape, form or another. And when doing your measurements and jig set-ups. KEEP THIS IN MIND ...or you will regret it later.


And that is making sure that the pillar post angle is correct. I know you might not think it is a big deal...but if it is laid inwards...you will basically loose you door glass adjustments and sometimes you will NOT be able to adjust your door glass.

SO...before you go and put your windshield in...you better check and make sure that the pillar post trim and weatherstrip ...when installed...will allow the door glass to be adjusted so it fits CORRECTLY.

SO ..regardless if it is coupe or convertible....the outer ends of the windshield frame can move enough that you will not see....unless you took critical measurements. You can weld away and have things move further on you.

Just a bit of advice....I have done NUMEROUS windshield frames and paid my dues on having this angle come back and bite me. I NEVER make that mistake any longer.

DUB

 

I was thinking on using the rubber you can coat tool handles with. It a hears to metal and when dry is still pliable. They have it at Home depot