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Fully forged, internally balanced bottom end, 489 CI with head gaskets, rings, bearings, .047 quench 9.93 to 1 compression. little to no clearancing required, will need balancing but will balance with no Mallory needed. Will easily run on pump fuel if you use the cam I linked earlier. Polish the chambers, it will reduce carbon buildup and future detonation issues. Under $2100
You could call this guy and check on either milling the domes 6CC or changing pistons. Looks like a real good price forged, already balanced with damper. Tell him you have a manual flywheel. I Haven't Used Him!!! You would need a standard thickness .039 gasket (cheaper)with this as the piston compression height is .010 taller
I'm with Mako, if you have to buy a crank, rods and pistons, no reason to NOT to a 4.25" crank. Scat 4340 crank and Scat 4340 rods will not need clearancing. You will want to balance the whole assembly though once you get the pistons.
**Also, plan on buying a moroso 20403 oil pan. The 4.25" crank will definitely have windage issues with the stock vette oil pan... Hell even with the 20403 pan, I can still only run about 5.75 qts of oil... Any more then that and it loses a ton of HP and some oil pressure.
Even with stock 781/049 oval ports, this thing will make 500-550 hp with even a mild cam. Some good ported ovals and a hyd roller is 600+hp. Best off is the torque it makes. You can run a 3.08 gear and it still hauls azz...
Scat ProComp (Not the junk ProComp brand) rods are stroker clearanced, designed with material removed in the right spots for both cam and pan clearance - these are the rods listed in 63Mako's wish list. I'd consider one of their cranks as well, the one he listed is internal balance and should be exactly what you need. Might try Diamond or SRP pistons, they're both good quality and won't break the bank.
Stay away from the ProComp junk, you'll spend more in machine work than you can save.
If you are running a 4.25" stroke, you'll want to run about 5.5 to 5.7 qts of oil at the most..(with filter).... Running 6 qts in that pan will cost you 40hp+....and you will lose a little oil pressure... I tested this on the dyno--its the real deal..
We did not use the windage tray with that pan due to clearance issues.
I run 5.6 qts on a fresh oil change and check my oil religiously..(like every weekend and top off as needed)... If you're gonna road race it or do top end runs, I recommend adding an accusump oil accumulator for added safety.
I ended up with the 489 option and "while I was at it" I got a set of Brodix RaceRite ovals with 119cc chambers (10:1 compression) and 270cc intake runners. They appear to match up very well with the stock L36 intake.
I will also get a set of Hedman 68096 headers (2''/3'').
The machine shop will finish up the bottom end this week.
I was thinking about getting a Straub cam with the expensive Morel lifters, but given that I have the rev limiter set at 5500RPM would that be overkill?
Does anyone here have experiences with the cheap Howards roller kits on a big block?
/Karsten
With a 5500 RPM redline buying off the shelf that cam will be fine. Those heads would really like a little more duration on the exhaust side, about a 10 degree split. They flow way more than the GM oval port on the intake side and a little more on the exhaust. Everything I see with the bigger split sacrifices lift. Custom lobe cam is really the only way to improve on that cam and they are expensive. Will run on 89 octane if you have good quench. Make sure your springs are speced for that cam. Big Blocks are real sensitive to proper spring pressures because of the heavy valvetrain.
Thanks for answering.
Piston to deck distance is almost zero (+/-0.03mm or 0.001'') so with a .040 gasket the quench distance should be right.
The springs are 140lbs on the seat and 400lbs at .600. I bought the heads from D&F performance and he verified the lift (coil bind) and I think he verified the spring rates as well.
With a longer exhaust duration comes even worse idle quality, right?
I can't tell you how much I hate the ****** rumpeti thump sound of those crappy "thumpr" type camshafts. I don't want it to sound like the engine could come apart at any time.
Find out recommended spring pressure for the cam and compare to yours.
Thanks for answering.
Piston to deck distance is almost zero (+/-0.03mm or 0.001'') so with a .040 gasket the quench distance should be right.
The springs are 140lbs on the seat and 400lbs at .600. I bought the heads from D&F performance and he verified the lift (coil bind) and I think he verified the spring rates as well.
With a longer exhaust duration comes even worse idle quality, right?
I can't tell you how much I hate the ****** rumpeti thump sound of those crappy "thumpr" type camshafts. I don't want it to sound like the engine could come apart at any time.
I hate camshafts that are designed to make a car sound lopey, I love a cam shafts fit to its purpose of making power with the side effect of a lopey, no posing. When I was a kid going up in Missouri every one had hotrods half of them had camshafts to big and it's severely disappointing for a car to sound like it should run good but don't. I feel that quite the oposite is true also, it sucks to cam a engine leaving power on the table trying to stay away from sounds. My point is don't cam it for sound one way or another, cam it to work best with the engine as a combo and let the sound fall were it may. Good luck, a healthy big block is going to keep a smile on your face from ear to ear so long that you'll have facial cramps when your not driving.
Howards tech says the 140/400 springs are good for the CL120325-10 kit
@bluedawg: I "need" no more than 500HP, so a combination that will give me 600HP and terrible idle would be "mission failed" in my book.
I know many of you guys want to squeeze everything out of it, but really what use do you have for +500HP in these cars? It will just rip everything apart.
I just want to be able to occasionally "educate" guys in their family saloon cars, who have been watching too much Top Gear and thinks that a modern daily driver is faster than yesteryear's sports cars
500 horse is completely doable, some of the new Cadilac over here get it, power is a drug in my book and I can't have to much. A 489" with decent heads can hit 500 horse with its hands tied. When I built my 400" my goal was to drive it all summer, not be beat by every car on the road and to turn mid 12's with greater ambitions to high elevens, I've hit the mid twelves and am working toward the high eleven mark. I'm not saying you need to squeeze every once of power out of, just cam it to work efficiently with in your combination and not worry about the idle. A roller cam will give you better idle quality, due to your imposed red line it might not be a bad idea to check out a custom cam to make good power in your desired range by making use of your heads.
Last edited by bluedawg; Aug 19, 2014 at 12:03 PM.
Howards tech says the 140/400 springs are good for the CL120325-10 kit
@bluedawg: I "need" no more than 500HP, so a combination that will give me 600HP and terrible idle would be "mission failed" in my book.
I know many of you guys want to squeeze everything out of it, but really what use do you have for +500HP in these cars? It will just rip everything apart.
I just want to be able to occasionally "educate" guys in their family saloon cars, who have been watching too much Top Gear and thinks that a modern daily driver is faster than yesteryear's sports cars
DCR is about 7.9 to 1. Will have a little lope, good street manners and vacuum. Should pull hard off idle to 5000-5500. Will have higher peak torque number than peak HP. 500 HP is no problem.