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i would use thoes, with your heads it will put you between 10-10.5 comp ratio. i ran L88 pistons with 781 oval ports in a 427 i built and it ran great on pump gas. i ran thoes heads till i had enough money for a set of ALU heads.
I've been looking for rotating assembly for a 454.
It's not going to be anything crazy, 400-450HP.
I have a set of big oval iron heads (aluminum not in the budget for now) that are around 113cc so with a standard 4'' stroke and assuming zero piston to deck (or alternatively a thinner gasket that puts me in the .040'' quench distance) I need arround 12cc pistons, right?
The problem is that most of the complete rotating assemblies available have either dished or crazy large domes?
The only sensible one I can find (at Summit) is this one: http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...make/chevrolet
I've been reading some older posts here that mentions problems with Eagle cranks. Is that still the case? I was looking at Scat brand kits because of this, but they don't seem to have any combos that fits my application (mostly forged cranks or either dished or huge domes)
If you don't find a "kit" you can just piece your own together. I'm building a 350 stroker right now (actually 2 of them) and I just gave them my requirements and asked them to give me a list of components. It may take a few emails back and forth but you can get exactly what you want. Of course, you can also just call them. But I prefer to have it in writing so I can refer back to it.
This gets you 489 cubic inches, .038 Quench and 10.1 to 1 compression. Should be fine on pump gas with a moderate sized cam because of the tight quench.
This is internally balanced so you would have to do that there.
You will need all the incidentals like rings, bearings ect.
I don't believe there is any clearancing of the block needed on the BBC 4.250 stroke. If so it is minimal.
check competition products for rotating assemblies.I agree with Mako for not much more get a stroker kit .what intake do you plan on using ?do a roller cam .
Thanks for the links, I appreciate that very much.
There is definitely much more to choose from when going for a 4.25 inch stroke. I'm not crazy about that long stroke though. The block would have to be clearanced for the longer stroke.
I would really like to avoid that. Machine work (like everything else) is insanely expensive here in Denmark.
Wouldn't a roller 489 make way more than the 450HP I'm looking for?
@Gary: Not much choice with a big block, as far as I know only the stock intake fits under the hood.
I do not believe there is any clearancing needed with the stroker rods I linked in a 454 big block. That roller 489 with your stock heads will probably make 400-425 at the rear wheels. Noticably more low RPM torque. Similar money.
Thanks for the links, I appreciate that very much.
There is definitely much more to choose from when going for a 4.25 inch stroke. I'm not crazy about that long stroke though. The block would have to be clearanced for the longer stroke.
Any clearencing, if any at all, that you might need to do can be done in your garage with a die grinder, check youtube theres probably videos. Im not sure which cast iron head you have, do you have a casting number? A 489" or i believe .060" makes it a 496" could hit 500 horse with a small roller, 8.5 to 1 compression and some mild porting on the right cast iron head and aluminum high rise intake, the torque it made would make ya poop. Are you wanting to go cast on the crank?
hood clearance was what I was thinking about ,when it came to a big block intake .a dual plane that fits under the stock hood mite be a restriction with a stroker bbc and a big roller cam .you mite have to use a performer oval intake ,I don't know if a oval port rpm performer will fit under the hood you have . it will make good power with a flat tappet cam .but you can never have enough power in a corvette .
CNC Motorsports or Ohio Crankshaft. Call them and tell them what heads you're using and they can spec exactly what pistons for the desired compression. And bore. New forged crank, rods, pistons, bearings and rings for around $2K.
10 to 1 with iron heads will be no problem if you keep the quench tight, around .040 and the intake valve closing point @ 67 or higher. This would be a fairly mild cam for almost 500 CI. What trans and gearing do you have? It will make a difference at what you can build and still be effective
looking around real quick ,I saw some SRP pistons that would be around 10-1 compression .they make pistons for a 4" and a 4.250 " stroke bbc .the are for a .060 over bore ,using a 6.385 rod .is you car a original bbc ?
@ bluedawg and Tim: It's not that I WANT a cast crank, but why throw money at something I shouldn't need.
your probably right in sense that a cast crank will probably do the job just fine. I tend to want to go forged on the rotating assembly for cheap insurance and piece of mind. I'm sure a cast crank would be fine just not something I'd do. I dint know much about the 241 heads, but a search on chevells.com in the performance section will net you a wealth of information. The 781's & 049's seem to be the popular ovals.
Last edited by bluedawg; Feb 17, 2014 at 11:52 AM.
I have a manual four speed (1:1 final) and 3.08 axle. I'm hoping to do something about the misfit axle ratio at some time.
I was looking at the piston and rods you linked to. They are also available in a 6.385 length. Isn't that the type you would normally use with a 4.250'' stroke? I read that the longer rod helps with clearances as well. No sure how though...
Depends on the crank, if it is a 6.385 spec crank the counterweights might not clear the piston skirts using a 6.138 rod and pistons. I would definitely go internally balanced if you piecing your combination together. You will need a flywheel and damper if you go internal balance. The 6.385 rod gives you less side loading on the cylinder wall. It will also lighten the piston. CNCMotorsports might be able to put you a complete rotating assembly together externally balanced. I will check around and see what I can find.