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Yes. Many years ago I could buy a kit that had a steel block that would allow me to cut the fiber optic perfectly flat on both ends. Then I would use this clear gel and slide both ends in this tube that would hold them together, then also having shrink wrap tubing on the fiber optic line...heat shrink it all together.
It worked well about 95 % of the time.
I do not repair the fiber optic harness any longer...mainly due to if it is damaged in more than one spot...the car wiring will usually also have issues somewhere...which will make it pointless to try to save the fiber optics if installing a new wiring harness will correct it all. I am not a "do-it-yourself-er"...so my time is valuable to me and spending time searching for the parts and also repairing it and trying to save something...and that "time" causes the repair costs to come close to or exceed the cost of a new part...I stop.
"Google" it and see what is out there due to fiber optics are still being used in many industries.
It is pretty easy to repair. Use a new razor blade, place the fiber on a hard surface and use the blade to make as straight of cut as possible on both sides. Then you may want to use fine sand paper to smooth it up more but this not a requirement. Next purchase some small heat shrink tubing, place it over the fiber, butt the fiber together then slide the heat shrink to cover the splice. Make sure to let it overlap a couple of inches on each side. You can also use a toothpick to put a small dot of Gorilla on the cable inside the heat shrink on each side of the splice. This will help keep the cable from pulling apart, but do not get it on the open end of the fiber. You can also tape it up to add more durability if desired. As long as the fiber is butted together it will pass light, but splices will have some light loss and several in the same cable do not work well. Be sure to secure the repaired cable so that it is not subject to physical strain or vibration.
Supplies needed
3/16" Heat Shrink Tubing
New Razor Blade
Heat Source to shrink tubing, a blow dryer or lighter will work.
Gorilla Glue (Optional)
Good Quality Electrical Tape (Optional)
Last edited by TX-Techman; Feb 19, 2014 at 08:57 PM.
You don't want the glass portion to overlap. They need to be put end-to-end in a tight butt-joint. And the ends of the strands (if you sand them) to have several grades of fine paper to get as polished a surface as possible. The light passes through the glass strands and any lack of clarity or mismatch on the butt joint will cut the amount of light transmitted across that joint.
Ok so I'm ignorant, but what was the fiber optics used for and what years. Thanks Blue
The fiber optics provide indicators for all lights including head, tail, turn signals, brake, and license plate. There is a indicator panel for both front and rear lights mounted on the console. The lamp housings were fitted with fiber source connectors which collect the light and transmit it down the fiber to the indicators. They really work well, the bulbs that have dual elements like blinker and brake lights are easily identified by the indicators which increase in intensity due to the brighter elements.
A lot of electricians and I'd guess most telephone/internet works have access to kits that include the correct splice kits. Maybe you can trade their labor for a few beers?
I haven't used one in years but I remember there was a devise to hold the cable square for both cutting and polishing. There was also a butt splice kit that used nuts with ferrels to keep things square and tight.
The fiber optics provide indicators for all lights including head, tail, turn signals, brake, and license plate. There is a indicator panel for both front and rear lights mounted on the console. The lamp housings were fitted with fiber source connectors which collect the light and transmit it down the fiber to the indicators. They really work well, the bulbs that have dual elements like blinker and brake lights are easily identified by the indicators which increase in intensity due to the brighter elements.
I want to thank all that replied. Good information and insight. I am still trying to find a suitable kit. All the vendors seem to have discontinued the kit or sell a 2' piece of Fiber Optic cable only. I may have to just use razor blades for the square cut. I'm sure the tool is really just razor blades in a fixed position.
Peter
Holding the fibre strands in position...as a 'cable'...is the most important step. Otherwise, the strands just collapse as you are cutting them and the butt joint will not be true.
If you do a decent job of cutting it straight (without sanding or polishing) and butt the ends together tightly, it should still pass light pretty well. The amount of light may be reduced, but it should still work OK. Using heat shrink tubing to keep it aligned and all together is a good idea.
Be sure to test it all out [in the dark] BEFORE you button-up the console!
Last edited by 7T1vette; Feb 20, 2014 at 09:00 AM.
I want to thank all that replied. Good information and insight. I am still trying to find a suitable kit. All the vendors seem to have discontinued the kit or sell a 2' piece of Fiber Optic cable only. I may have to just use razor blades for the square cut. I'm sure the tool is really just razor blades in a fixed position.
Peter
My kit from the past contained a 1/4" to 3/8" thick block of steel that had a hole drilled in it to hold the fiber optic cable snugly. I would use a razor blade and cut it across the steel block and get a clean cut through the fiber optic cable. I did it on both ends being joined and repaired...get the clear plastic tube and apply some clear gel and the connect everything together and then shrink wrap it. Then test.
My kit from the past contained a 1/4" to 3/8" thick block of steel that had a hole drilled in it to hold the fiber optic cable snugly. I would use a razor blade and cut it across the steel block and get a clean cut through the fiber optic cable. I did it on both ends being joined and repaired...get the clear plastic tube and apply some clear gel and the connect everything together and then shrink wrap it. Then test.
DUB
Makes me wonder - if a LED lamp array was used in existing front and rear side lamp housings (as with LED kits for late model Vettes) whether the light output from the fibre optic in the centre console would be significantly brighter. I replaced license plate bulb with a 25 watt lamp instead of stock wattage and the display was noticably brighter compared with the others.
Makes me wonder - if a LED lamp array was used in existing front and rear side lamp housings (as with LED kits for late model Vettes) whether the light output from the fibre optic in the centre console would be significantly brighter. I replaced license plate bulb with a 25 watt lamp instead of stock wattage and the display was noticably brighter compared with the others.
I am sure that the brightness might be higher...but it I feel that the kits that offer LEDs for the other lights that blink have taken that into account so that they can blink as intended. The candle power should be higher,,,hopefully.