Anyone use POR 15 for frame paint etc? Getting ready to put my new radiator in and have sanded down the mounts etc and looking to use it on all the metal surfaces. Other products?

 

Prep it exactly as the instructions state and you will be good for 100 years.

 

i used their engine stuff a couple years back. it still looks as good today as it was the day i sprayed it.

 

just don't get that stuff on your hands-it won't come off!

 

Havent used it on the car but on the old landcruiser I restored. It's good stuff, as with everything else, it's all in the prep. And make sure you wear gloves or you will wear the stuff for weeks if not months....

 

Thanks, 100 mile rt to go get it but its looking like a road trip next week.

 

I like Por-15 products. I used their gas tank sealer kit on my gas tank and it did the trick. Like others have said, its all in the prep.

I hate sanding. what I like about por-15 is that it likes a little tooth to stick to. I am not going for a show quality perfect frame. I want a solid color, black, protected frame. So I clean it, knock the big stuff off. I like that it applies with a brush. I don't have to tape off as much because I don't have to worry about overspray.

I have also used their spray primer, por-15 and the topcoat. I used the topcoat semigloss on the engine bay.

You can do as much prep as you want. This is as much as felt like doing.


I used metal ready on this and then painted it


Note the big stack of razor blade wrappers by the Dremel in the top left. This was a dark time ...


I am happy with this type of result. With the body off and more discipline , you could probably do even better.


Their products work as advertised for me.

 

wouldn't it be easier to buy online and have it delivered?

 

Sprayed this 14 yrs ago along with the entire bottom of the car
Use the best respirator you can get wear long sleeves etc. Brushing is safer

[IMG][/IMG]

 

Here is a quick copy and paste of what I said before about POR15 before Someone comes on here and says that "I didn't prep it properly".

If Your Car is gonna be a Garage Queen POR15 will hold up just fine , and so will the stuff in a rattle can. But if You are going to drive it expecially in the rain or Snow it will NOT hold up.
I spent a considerable amount of Money along with a lot of My time coating the Frame of My then new 2002 Silverado , I followed the directions to the T , used the Marine clean , and Metalready . I even cleaned with Metalready and wire brushed everything again 2 years later and recoated with POR15.
I live in the Rustbelt and this Truck is My dayly driver . Rust is everywhere POR does not stick to anything but Hands and Cement. The coating is very tough , but once it gets a chip Water and Salt get under it and the Rust will undermine it like Powder coat on cheap lawn furniture. You can grab a loose end and literally pull the stuff off in sheets. The only thing that I would ever use this product on is to waterproof a concrete block wall .
The one product that I have had good luck with is Rust Bullet and I topcoat it with Eastwood Chassis Black as it only comes in silver. Do a google search for Rust Bullet it's amazing stuff , adheres to almost anything and can be topcoated with other paints without having to buy expensive "tie coat" like POR15. I wish that I knew about it when My Truck was new.

 

nother happy POR user here. done a bunch of vette parts, some 3years old now, w no bubbles, chips or peels. slapped some on my snow plow that was beginning to rust, it has also impressed me, held up for 2 winters now pushin snow, submerged in salty slop

i love the stuff

 

As the others have said it works, don't get it on your hands and I'll add don't shake the can only stir it and it's self leveling so don't pile it on just enough to cover the area is enough.

 

If you want an alternative check out RustBullet. The prep is much easier than POR and it is just as durable. It can be topcoated with any kind of paint or left as is. It is not sensitive to UV.



Rick B.

 

I've never had much luck with POR, either. That's cool if most of you do have luck with it, though.

 

As some mentioned prep is key. I do a lot of parts in POR15. I often blast them if I can, if not I will wire wheel them. I like bare metal and have found it to work very well on it. I will then marine clean and rinse and then metal ready and rinse. After the metal ready the part should have a rough white surface. From there I apply the POR15 in 2-3 coats. I also top coat the items with another paint. I have not had any issues thus far with anything I have done. Been using the stuff since 2002.

 

The best thing about POR-15 vs powder coat is you can touch-up/repair POR-15. If you need to weld a clip to a part that's powder coated, you have problems because you can't touch up the area you grinded for the weld.

 

Not kidding here. If you're under it while paintng wear a mask too. With gloves. It likes to set up house on your skin if you don't get it off quickly.
You must follow the directions and I'd put two coats on or one coat and chassis Black to UV protect. I use a string (550 cable) and a sponge to get inside the frame rails.

 

By the way dish soap will work inplace of Marine Clean. A friend of mine is a dealer for POR-15, so I get it on a regular basis. HardNose Red for callipers with hardner and clear with hardner for intakes.

 

We used POR15 on the 65 Chevy truck frame, but found that it fades when exposed to the harsh Florida sun and rains. We ended up top coating it with Rustoleum black, and it looks much better now. I think the combination should hold up very well, but I don`t think I`d leave it with just the POR15.

 

POR 15, the base coat has no UV protection. That's why they recommend the top coat Chassis Black. That has the UV protection and gives the semi-gloss look.