POR 15 users
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,248
Likes: 48
From: westland mi
My 2 cents on Por-15
Por-15 how to
http://www.por15.com/
1st off you just wanna get the pint size can of por-15, a pint goes a long way. do not get the flat black por-15 it dries in different uneven shades for whatever reason, just get the regular por-15. instead of buying the metal ready from por-15 goto home depot n get a product called "a must for rust" it's the same thing, a metal etcher, but cheaper from home depot. for wirewheels just use what you got in the garage, i went thru at least 3 and a drill. what i also found that worked great was the scotch sanding discs u put on the drill, just use the course ones. now after you take the frame to bare metal take some course sandpaper n scratch up the metal so por-15 has something to grab onto, don't worry bout the scratches por-15 is self leveling n will cover the scratches. after thats done make sure the frame is grease free, i spray it w/brake cleaner then spray a rag w/brake cleaner n wipe it down n then when it's CLEAN then i put the "must for rust" or "metal ready" into a spray bottle and spray it on the frame good(application also goes for other steel parts) n let it sit on the frame for 30min, you'll notice the frame will turn like a rust color, thats what etching does. don't use metal ready or a "must for Rust" if painting non metal parts. then rinse w/water n when completely dry yer ready to brush on the por-15. just get some brushes that don't shed a lot n just brush it on n don't worry bout brush strokes as por-15 self levels itself out. You only need 1coat of por15. it takes anywhere from 10 to 24hrs to dry, most people like to topcoat while the por is still tacky which makes sense but i've applied it w/the por15 dry which i've had no paint peeling so it's worked for me.
NEVER EVER REMOVE THE LID OF POR15. Drill a small hole in the lid near the edge n another in the opposite side of the lid. one hole is a vent so you can pour from the opposite hole, don't pour to much as a little goes a long way, you can always pour more into the mug. Plug both holes w/sheet metal screws that fit tightly n seal, give the can a roll to coat the screws inside to help seal for longer shelf life, over 3 years plus. latex gloves are a must. keep using the same container(i use a coffee mug w/ a handle) to paint from, you'll find por15 will harden like a brick so i just pour more on top of that the next time i por15 something until the mug is hardened full. make sure u get fresh air to breath, that stuff is nasty. i always sandblast my parts 1st except for the frame if your doing a frameon. for the frame i just wire wheeled it n sanded it where i had to. Before u pour into a coffee mug for painting, DO NOT SHAKE the can, it creates bubbles, just roll the can every which way smoothly for a couple minutes to mix. Ross
Por-15 how to
http://www.por15.com/
1st off you just wanna get the pint size can of por-15, a pint goes a long way. do not get the flat black por-15 it dries in different uneven shades for whatever reason, just get the regular por-15. instead of buying the metal ready from por-15 goto home depot n get a product called "a must for rust" it's the same thing, a metal etcher, but cheaper from home depot. for wirewheels just use what you got in the garage, i went thru at least 3 and a drill. what i also found that worked great was the scotch sanding discs u put on the drill, just use the course ones. now after you take the frame to bare metal take some course sandpaper n scratch up the metal so por-15 has something to grab onto, don't worry bout the scratches por-15 is self leveling n will cover the scratches. after thats done make sure the frame is grease free, i spray it w/brake cleaner then spray a rag w/brake cleaner n wipe it down n then when it's CLEAN then i put the "must for rust" or "metal ready" into a spray bottle and spray it on the frame good(application also goes for other steel parts) n let it sit on the frame for 30min, you'll notice the frame will turn like a rust color, thats what etching does. don't use metal ready or a "must for Rust" if painting non metal parts. then rinse w/water n when completely dry yer ready to brush on the por-15. just get some brushes that don't shed a lot n just brush it on n don't worry bout brush strokes as por-15 self levels itself out. You only need 1coat of por15. it takes anywhere from 10 to 24hrs to dry, most people like to topcoat while the por is still tacky which makes sense but i've applied it w/the por15 dry which i've had no paint peeling so it's worked for me.
NEVER EVER REMOVE THE LID OF POR15. Drill a small hole in the lid near the edge n another in the opposite side of the lid. one hole is a vent so you can pour from the opposite hole, don't pour to much as a little goes a long way, you can always pour more into the mug. Plug both holes w/sheet metal screws that fit tightly n seal, give the can a roll to coat the screws inside to help seal for longer shelf life, over 3 years plus. latex gloves are a must. keep using the same container(i use a coffee mug w/ a handle) to paint from, you'll find por15 will harden like a brick so i just pour more on top of that the next time i por15 something until the mug is hardened full. make sure u get fresh air to breath, that stuff is nasty. i always sandblast my parts 1st except for the frame if your doing a frameon. for the frame i just wire wheeled it n sanded it where i had to. Before u pour into a coffee mug for painting, DO NOT SHAKE the can, it creates bubbles, just roll the can every which way smoothly for a couple minutes to mix. Ross
