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After reading a lot about rusty birdcages I'm getting worried... here's some pictures of the passenger side, door hinge mount area.. Am I screwed ? How do I tackle this ?
yes, you are.. to tackle it means to pretty much disassemble the entire body to get to that area.. probably all areas of the birdcage is just as bad.. and replace it.. I suspect your frame and other metal is equally as shot. really can't be done right unless a total body off and firewall off is done. at least 5 figures in $$ to do it right.
best advice is to sell it.. these cars will trade in the market, but at much lower prices.
Don't know where you're at but took 68 to Willcox for windshield replacement and had to replace bottom driver side w/s post-Ernie had to actually cut section of upper fender to access repairs-was going to paint anyway and can't see where fender was cut-he had to fab repair parts-good luck
If it is just the windshield post, that is much easier to fix / replace then a full birdcage replacement in my opinion. As long as you don't see any other open spaces, clean away all the surface rust and use POR15 on the rest.
Just noticed the link, that picture you posted is a full firewall back body, not just the birdcage, yes that may be easier than a birdcage or windshield post replacement
Last edited by RobRace10; Mar 4, 2014 at 11:48 AM.
If it is just the windshield post, that is much easier to fix / replace then a full birdcage replacement in my opinion. As long as you don't see any other open spaces, clean away all the surface rust and use POR15 on the rest.
Just noticed the link, that picture you posted is a full firewall back body, not just the birdcage, yes that may be easier than a birdcage or windshield post replacement
I'm thinking about buying that body and swapping it, but the thought of taking out the dash, and I assume the steering column and re wiring scares me. do i need to take off the front clip to do this ?
Yes the front clip needs to come off.
Depending on what the donor body looks like it may be your best bet.
The damage is not going to be limited to the drivers side WS frame, your original pic is the pass side #2 pocket. That kind of damage indicates that the lower pass side WS corner is gone it the pass side WS frame looks ok under the WS.
Along with that much rust your rocker channels are also suspect.
Dealing with this was a pita, but you end up with a new 35 yr old car.
It is possible to fix the one you have, but its a lot of work and some of the arts are $$. When I did mine no one made WS lower frame corners, I had to fab one, took 3 tries but I got it. Upper corners and frame members are redly available. The lower corners are available but pricy. Peeling out the dash and steering column are not all that bad, take lots of pics along the way, it will go back together.
Before sending this I just looked, Ecklers has all the FS frame parts and the lower corners are under $200, much lower than a couple years ago.
Repairing it or using another shell requires the same amount of disassembly. Either way you have to remove the front clip, firewall, etc. Just depends on whether you want to do the labor and keep your current shell.
To remove and replace the actual birdcage assembly on your car is a TON of work!
There are a lot of solid replacement sections on ebay for a good price too.
well i decided to completely tear this bitch down and re-build her, today we took off the doors and the hood.
hopefully we don't wreck the body taking the front clip off, we have no idea how to take it off lol if anyone here is in Calgary ab canada, there's unlimited beer if you can help!
Get in touch with stinger12 here on the C3 forum. He lives in Calgary, is a body man, and is finishing the resurrection of his car. If anyone in your area can help you....he's the guy. Good Luck.
Get in touch with stinger12 here on the C3 forum. He lives in Calgary, is a body man, and is finishing the resurrection of his car. If anyone in your area can help you....he's the guy. Good Luck.
A heat gun will aid in softening the adhesive so you can get a thin tool in there and begin to separate the seams. You have to get it hot...I do it quite often...and it does work....you just have to be patient.
Find a spot where you can see a blob of adhesive...poke at it with a thin flat blade screwdriver...and see how hard it is...then heat it up and poke at it again...you will notice that it gets softer. At or around 170+ degrees..it will begin to let loose. I use my infra red thermometer and check out how hot it is before I begin to separate the panels.
well i decided to completely tear this bitch down and re-build her, today we took off the doors and the hood.
hopefully we don't wreck the body taking the front clip off, we have no idea how to take it off lol if anyone here is in Calgary ab canada, there's unlimited beer if you can help!
Send me a PM with your email and I have some pages I copied that would help you.