blinkless on the right
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 145
Likes: 13
From: Athens AL
blinkless on the right
Electrical problems are not much fun to solve, and I have one that I could use some guidance on. When the headlights are off, all the lights that are supposed to be on are on, and the turn signals work. When I pull the headlight switch, the headlights come on (and up), and all the tail lights work. The left turn signal works.
-The right turn signal does nothing.-
The obvious, easy solution is to never turn right at night. Maybe I’m just spoiled, but I would like to occasionally make a right turn after dark. I’m changing out my steering column this weekend, so now would be a great time for one of the more experienced electrical gurus to point me toward a solution that I haven’t already tried. Feel free to speculate, but if anyone has any direct experience with a problem like this, here’s your chance to do your good deed for the day.
-The right turn signal does nothing.-
The obvious, easy solution is to never turn right at night. Maybe I’m just spoiled, but I would like to occasionally make a right turn after dark. I’m changing out my steering column this weekend, so now would be a great time for one of the more experienced electrical gurus to point me toward a solution that I haven’t already tried. Feel free to speculate, but if anyone has any direct experience with a problem like this, here’s your chance to do your good deed for the day.
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,652
Likes: 49
From: Bridgewater nj
I've been having that problem too
Replaced flashers, bulbs and all connections. At this point I think it's the headlight switch but I haven't gotten to it yet. If you try that and it works? Let me know
Good luck!
Replaced flashers, bulbs and all connections. At this point I think it's the headlight switch but I haven't gotten to it yet. If you try that and it works? Let me know
Good luck!
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 2,753
Likes: 119
From: Springfield Missouri
yes, with a test meter. What about testing the socket for 12 volts when the bulb should be lit. Brake light work? if so the trouble is toward the steering column, the turning signal in the column. The same part of the bulb that works the brake light is also the turning signal lite. Grounding is usually the problem. But first check for voltage at the bulb when it should be flashing, a test light also works great here.
the light switch turns the lights on, but it runs thru the steering column, then towards the rear of the car. You can test for voltage where the column plugs into the wiring harness at the base of the column, look at what color the sockets has going to it(light green, dark green etc.), then look for that color at the junction, here a test light helps to find out if it is working.
the light switch turns the lights on, but it runs thru the steering column, then towards the rear of the car. You can test for voltage where the column plugs into the wiring harness at the base of the column, look at what color the sockets has going to it(light green, dark green etc.), then look for that color at the junction, here a test light helps to find out if it is working.
Last edited by lvmyvt76; Mar 13, 2014 at 11:55 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: mount holly NC
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
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Many times a problem like yours is from a bad ground in the socket.
Find a good ground and check the socket with the wire.
Find a good ground and check the socket with the wire.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 145
Likes: 13
From: Athens AL
I've checked the ground before, but I'll check it again to eliminate that as a potential problem. The brake light works when the headlights are off, so I'm pretty sure it isn't a ground problem.
That's a good call on the connection under the steering column. I could locate the wire for the left signal (the "known good" wire) and turn the switch on for the left signal. If the voltmeter shows voltage with the TS switch on (left), then it should do the same thing on the appropriate circuit when the switch is on right. If it doesn't then the switch is bad. If it does, then the problem is somewhere between the switch and the socket.
Does the switch come before the flasher, or is it the other way around?
That's a good call on the connection under the steering column. I could locate the wire for the left signal (the "known good" wire) and turn the switch on for the left signal. If the voltmeter shows voltage with the TS switch on (left), then it should do the same thing on the appropriate circuit when the switch is on right. If it doesn't then the switch is bad. If it does, then the problem is somewhere between the switch and the socket.
Does the switch come before the flasher, or is it the other way around?
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Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Crossville TN
If you have a grounding problem, the amount of current flowing in the circuit can change the behavior. I, too, think you have a grounding problem. Since the headlight switch only sends positive voltage out to the lights, you don't need to focus on the switch. And, when checking for grounding issues, you have to make sure all the connections and the wiring have integrity. It is best to loosen the ground connections, clean off all hardware, clean wiring ends, and verify that the wire is still in good condition. Over 40 years of time, copper wire can degrade significantly if not well insulated and sealed.
Also, for the secondary grounds to work well, the primary grounding point (on frame below the battery box) must be in good condition, as well. Check it out, too.
Also, for the secondary grounds to work well, the primary grounding point (on frame below the battery box) must be in good condition, as well. Check it out, too.
Last edited by 7T1vette; Mar 13, 2014 at 07:25 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Charlotte NC
YOU HAVE A GROUNDING PROBLEM>>>>>FACT!!!!! If it is not a ground issue...due to the bulbs are fine...I would be shocked.
The reason everything works CORRECTLY when the HEADLIGHTS are off is because the ground is being found and used on that BAD side due to the running lights are NOT being used. It is grounding through the UN-USED element ...and NOT the ground itself..it is back-feeding..so-to-speak.
Once you turn on your headlights...and the running/driving lights come on...now there is no where for a ground be found..because it is being used.
Unless you have ALL bulbs out when testing...it will show to be a good ground when actually it is not due to a ground path is being found through the element.
If your turn signals and brakes work correctly with NO headlights on....there is nothing wrong with your turn signal.
I fix this SAME issue quite often...and it is usually the black ground wire stuck in the side of a light socket that is the problem.
Headlight switch has nothing to do with this problem....or at least I have NEVER found that it was the cause.
DUB
The reason everything works CORRECTLY when the HEADLIGHTS are off is because the ground is being found and used on that BAD side due to the running lights are NOT being used. It is grounding through the UN-USED element ...and NOT the ground itself..it is back-feeding..so-to-speak.
Once you turn on your headlights...and the running/driving lights come on...now there is no where for a ground be found..because it is being used.
Unless you have ALL bulbs out when testing...it will show to be a good ground when actually it is not due to a ground path is being found through the element.
If your turn signals and brakes work correctly with NO headlights on....there is nothing wrong with your turn signal.
I fix this SAME issue quite often...and it is usually the black ground wire stuck in the side of a light socket that is the problem.
Headlight switch has nothing to do with this problem....or at least I have NEVER found that it was the cause.
DUB
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2013
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From: Athens AL
Thanks for all the feedback. I spent the weekend installing new shocks and a new power steering control valve. The shocks were easy. The control valve, not so much. It was definitely time well spent though. All the "play" in the steering is gone, and no more fluid leaks.
What DUB says makes sense. Hypothetically, suppose I located the right turn signal wire where it exits the steering column, cut it, installed a socket, grounded it, turned on the headlights and the right turn signal, and it blinked. Would it be safe to assume the bad ground was between my ad-hoc bulb socket and the bulb socket by the rear bumper?
What DUB says makes sense. Hypothetically, suppose I located the right turn signal wire where it exits the steering column, cut it, installed a socket, grounded it, turned on the headlights and the right turn signal, and it blinked. Would it be safe to assume the bad ground was between my ad-hoc bulb socket and the bulb socket by the rear bumper?
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Charlotte NC
Thanks for all the feedback. I spent the weekend installing new shocks and a new power steering control valve. The shocks were easy. The control valve, not so much. It was definitely time well spent though. All the "play" in the steering is gone, and no more fluid leaks.
What DUB says makes sense. Hypothetically, suppose I located the right turn signal wire where it exits the steering column, cut it, installed a socket, grounded it, turned on the headlights and the right turn signal, and it blinked. Would it be safe to assume the bad ground was between my ad-hoc bulb socket and the bulb socket by the rear bumper?
What DUB says makes sense. Hypothetically, suppose I located the right turn signal wire where it exits the steering column, cut it, installed a socket, grounded it, turned on the headlights and the right turn signal, and it blinked. Would it be safe to assume the bad ground was between my ad-hoc bulb socket and the bulb socket by the rear bumper?
You are taking this way too far. It is simple as PIE. Take your volt/ohmmeter and check the ground tang on the inside of your taillight socket on the right side. IF you have NO ground in that socket....but you go over to the other side (that works correctly)...and you have a ground...then I would BET that the rubber plug/terminal where the ground goes into the side of the socket is bad....but YET the wire is fine. Possible...but unlikely that the wire going across the rear is bad unless some "BOZO" has been in there messing around with solder-less butt-connectors and the wire is broken. ONE ground wire feeds all the lights in the rear.
DUB
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From: mount holly NC
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 145
Likes: 13
From: Athens AL
The "you've got a ground problem" people were right. The car was painted a couple of years ago, and apparently, when the tail light housing was reinstalled, the ground wire was completely omitted. On the "working" side, there was a healthy sized ground wire that ran from the inner (closest to the license plate) light housing to the outer one. When I check the "non-working" side, the ground was completely missing, so it wasn't hard to spot at all. To confirm this, I ran a temporary ground wire from the bumper to the tail light housing, and it started blinking immediately. Thanks for all the input, and have a great weekend.