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No have not run a compression check. Did drive it another 50 miles tonight pretty sure the rings are seated. The more I drive it the move power and the smother the engine runs as it breaks in.
No have not run a compression check. Did drive it another 50 miles tonight pretty sure the rings are seated. The more I drive it the move power and the smother the engine runs as it breaks in.
Might be worth your time. A leak down test would be good too, if you have the equipment. When I build a new engine, I run it for a half hour on the stand, change the oil and run a compression test. You then have a base line for monitoring the engine in the future.
Thanks for the tips and good read! Lots of good info in there.the grommet will get fixed tomorrow so that solves one spot. Still leaking at the front of the pan which is blowing down the passenger pan rail. Could possibly be the timing cover as some have mentioned. But I did find two bolts holes on the passenger side the drivers side has the power steering mounted there. These two bolts are right by the fuel pump....can these holes leak?
There is a long bolt that you can put in at the front of the block to hold the fuel pump rod in when assembling. Then you take it out and screw a short bolt in as a plug once the pump is mounted. I think the short bolt is 1/2" long x 3/8. That hole opens up directly to the crankcase and will leak oil out of it if the short bolt plug is not in it. They are easily forgotten, ask me how I know. Bet that is your leak.
This is the way I understand it. The cylinder is honed and the surface left behind is a certain roughness depending on the type of ring used. A moly faced ring uses a smoother surface than say a chrome faced one.
The surface roughness serves two purposes.
One is to wear the face of the new rings to match the surface of the cylinder.
The other is to retain a certain amount of oil for lubrication.
When the cylinder is freshly honed it has sharp peaks left on the surface. The peaks cut into the face of the ring and "mate" the ring to that cylinder.
Problem is these peaks wear off quickly. So in order to cut into the face of the ring lots of pressure is needed. Otherwise you round off the peaks without really cutting the ring surface and between the peaks or the " valleys" you end up with excessive oil retention. That oil cooks and turns into a glaze. A glazed surface will produce less power more blowby and increased oil consumption. How much that is, is dependent on how well or poorly the rings seated with the cylinder surface.
So the longer you take to properly break in the rings the greater the likelihood of poor sealing since your peaks are still wearing down but not cutting into the ring face very well. Eventually it is too late and the peaks are all rounded off and unable to cut into the face of the ring.
You still have a seal just a less quality one prone to any or all the aforementioned problems.
I doubt none of this, but my plasma Molly took a good 750 to 1000 miles to seat and as said before I wondered about the hone, but the did seat with no blow by now. I asked because I wanted to learn, so thank you for the response.
There is a long bolt that you can put in at the front of the block to hold the fuel pump rod in when assembling. Then you take it out and screw a short bolt in as a plug once the pump is mounted. I think the short bolt is 1/2" long x 3/8. That hole opens up directly to the crankcase and will leak oil out of it if the short bolt plug is not in it. They are easily forgotten, ask me how I know. Bet that is your leak.
I actually forgot to put the short bolt back when I did the l48 top end, it doesn't just leak, it pumps oil out, which royally sucks during a flat tappet cam shaft break in..... sweet Jesus what a mess.
Thanks for the tips and good read! Lots of good info in there.the grommet will get fixed tomorrow so that solves one spot. Still leaking at the front of the pan which is blowing down the passenger pan rail. Could possibly be the timing cover as some have mentioned. But I did find two bolts holes on the passenger side the drivers side has the power steering mounted there. These two bolts are right by the fuel pump....can these holes leak?
I would bet the grommet fixes all the issues. The pan may not be leaking at all it may just be runoff from the grommet. I would just fix that first clean everything up then re check.
Maybe just pull the valve cover and have a fitting welded on there to replace the grommet. Thats what I did on my covers.
Last edited by tektrans; Mar 18, 2014 at 08:59 AM.
Thanks for the tips and good read! Lots of good info in there.the grommet will get fixed tomorrow so that solves one spot. Still leaking at the front of the pan which is blowing down the passenger pan rail. Could possibly be the timing cover as some have mentioned. But I did find two bolts holes on the passenger side the drivers side has the power steering mounted there. These two bolts are right by the fuel pump....can these holes leak?
Passenger side front of crankcase near fuel pump boss and timing cover: top bolt hole can leak if threads are not sealed. I would use black rtv on those threads. Bottom hole does not open into crankcase.
This picture is of the two bolt holes by the fuel pump. Both of mine are wide open nothing in there not a bolt not anything.
After looking at it last night at 11pm becasue my OCD kicked in and I had to go to the garage and jack the car up this is what I was looking at.
The grommet leak doesnt get to the front of the valve covers thought it did but it dosent it runs from the grommet down the top of the valve cover down the bottom rail of the underside of the valve cover then down the clock past the oil filter and on the ground. So there is one spot I dont need to worry about anymore just need to replace the grommet.
The bolt holes by the fuel pump have really got me thinking becasue the car does not leak a drop when sitting overnight or while ideling in the garage. But after I run that sucker and pull it in the garage and shut it off boom there is the leak.
The leak in the front of the pan does not come from the drivers side top portion of the crank case cover that is dry. However the bottom of the U on the front of the pan and along the passenger side of the pan about 3 bolts back you can see the oil trail. this is all directly under thoese two bolt holes which are on my car WIDE OPEN with nothing in them.
I do know this so help me lord if I have to drop that pan again. If so me and my 2 year old son are going to play the smash the Moroso game in the drive way.
This picture is of the two bolt holes by the fuel pump. Both of mine are wide open nothing in there not a bolt not anything.
After looking at it last night at 11pm becasue my OCD kicked in and I had to go to the garage and jack the car up this is what I was looking at.
The grommet leak doesnt get to the front of the valve covers thought it did but it dosent it runs from the grommet down the top of the valve cover down the bottom rail of the underside of the valve cover then down the clock past the oil filter and on the ground. So there is one spot I dont need to worry about anymore just need to replace the grommet.
The bolt holes by the fuel pump have really got me thinking becasue the car does not leak a drop when sitting overnight or while ideling in the garage. But after I run that sucker and pull it in the garage and shut it off boom there is the leak.
The leak in the front of the pan does not come from the drivers side top portion of the crank case cover that is dry. However the bottom of the U on the front of the pan and along the passenger side of the pan about 3 bolts back you can see the oil trail. this is all directly under thoese two bolt holes which are on my car WIDE OPEN with nothing in them.
I do know this so help me lord if I have to drop that pan again. If so me and my 2 year old son are going to play the smash the Moroso game in the drive way.
The thread on the bolts should be the same as that on your water pump bolts. If you can find a bolt 1" in length or shorter (with washer) and a dab of black rtv, torque to 20 ft lbs in the top bolt hole. Should work.
This picture is of the two bolt holes by the fuel pump. Both of mine are wide open nothing in there not a bolt not anything.
After looking at it last night at 11pm becasue my OCD kicked in and I had to go to the garage and jack the car up this is what I was looking at.
The bolt holes by the fuel pump have really got me thinking becasue the car does not leak a drop when sitting overnight or while ideling in the garage. But after I run that sucker and pull it in the garage and shut it off boom there is the leak.
The leak in the front of the pan does not come from the drivers side top portion of the crank case cover that is dry. However the bottom of the U on the front of the pan and along the passenger side of the pan about 3 bolts back you can see the oil trail. this is all directly under thoese two bolt holes which are on my car WIDE OPEN with nothing in them.
This is GREAT news I think we found the leak....actually I know we did. Going to plug it tonight after work. I cant believe that after all this time the issue was looking me dead in the face. I should have known better then to look past the holes.
Actually.......Winner Winner Chicken Dinner! Thanks Mako if you wouldnt have said something about those holes I never would have given them a second look. However, I do recall a moment when I was under the car thinking to myself why are thoes holes open and then I just went back to tightening up the oil pan!!!!! HAHA thats funny....NOT REALLY.
This is GREAT news I think we found the leak....actually I know we did. Going to plug it tonight after work. I cant believe that after all this time the issue was looking me dead in the face. I should have known better then to look past the holes.
There is a long bolt that you can put in at the front of the block to hold the fuel pump rod in when assembling. Then you take it out and screw a short bolt in as a plug once the pump is mounted. I think the short bolt is 1/2" long x 3/8. That hole opens up directly to the crankcase and will leak oil out of it if the short bolt plug is not in it. They are easily forgotten, ask me how I know. Bet that is your leak.
Not sure if it is 5/16 or 3/8 in diameter. Use a little sealer on it and snug it up good.
The weird part is your engine builder replaced the pan and didnt notice oil leaking from a missing bolt.
You likely can look right at it and not see oil there. It can sit in one spot and idle and probably not leak a drop. Clean oil, fresh painted block, fan blowing it around, only leaks running higher RPM and gravity. Your down there staring at the oil pan, block, timing cover interface intently because that is where the oil is, you got your focus there. Real easy miss, can happen to anyone.
That bolt is a 3/8 standard thread (coarse) and is about 3/4 long. Some pipe thread sealer on it, snug it up and done. RTV will work, but for RTV to effectively seal you have to get all traces of oil off of, and out of, the threads. Pipe thread sealer won't really care.