It happened to me. Didn't put the short bolt back in...

 

Funny you should say that becasue last night while I was looking at it there was no oil trail coming from out of the top hole. I know there should be a bolt there but I was thinking shurly there should be a trail or something. Your dead on with the driving, running at different RPMs and the fan and belts blowing. That could sling oil anywhere mine just happens to be along the pan. Crazy!

 

I will swing by tractor supply or home depot to see if I can find a bolt after work.

 

One more question.

I am just plugging the top hole correct? Or do you need to plug the bottom one as well? I dont think the bottom hole goes to inside the block!?

 

I agree. I used to work with piping. Do not use RTV.

 

Check NO RTV!!!

 

Didn't mean to sound short in my response. At work I have an I-pad to work with. It's handy but I find it harder to type on so I keep stuff short.
I don't know how many hours or miles it takes to seat in various types of rings on various types of honed surfaces. All I know is that it's best to get it done quickly for good results. The last 20% or so of seating takes quite a while 1000 to 2000 miles of normal driving. Running it hard will accelerate the process.
On my bikes I got max pressure on a compression test after three heat cycles and 1 to 2 hours of hard riding or racing. Then it would hold at that level for several hours before it slowly started to drop off.
Top ends would last maybe 70 to 75 hours the way I did it.
If done OEM style you got maybe 25 hours.
After a 10% drop I do another top end to maintain max HP out put.

On the engine I have now I took compression readings of all the cylinders after 500 miles. I'll use that as a benchmark to determine the health of the top end as time goes by.
Right now corrected to sea level pressure I have 205 psi average per cylinder with less than 6% variation between cylinders.
I'll just have to see how long that lasts. Probably will have a 406 in there long before it wears out.

 

Hey im only plugging the top bolt hole correct......not both the top and the bottom.

 

Yes - just the top bolt. I chased this leak for months too and did not have a bolt in there....

 

Thanks goliath....I dont feel like making another trip to tractor supply.

 

Took the 3/8 bolt out of my old block and installed in the top hole by the fuel pump. Replaced both the grommet for a bigger one and got a new PVC.

Fired it up and ran it 25 miles....pulled it in the garage shut her down.

ILL BE DAMED IF THAT DIDNT FIX THE LEAK......DONE SON NOT EVEN A DROP. Such a relief after a month of chasing this leak.

Anyone need their pan and gasket replaced after doing this 4 times for nothing I'm pretty sure I got it down pat!! Haha

Thanks guys much appreciated help and advice y'all were dead on!

 

I wonder how many people have had that same issue after an overhaul. Sounds like it's pretty hard to nail down since it disguises it's self so well as a pan leak.
Glad mako nailed that one down.
Maybe you should keep all those blue rubber pan gaskets for when you really need one.

 

Haha I have a couple FELPROs you need one...think I have another pan too!

Yep Mako was dead on!

 

Great news.

 

Glad that fixed it.

 

Well I have some BAD NEWS....thinking a leakdown test is needed my awesome oil leak is back.

So I plugged the top bolt hole by the fuel pump and all was well for 3-4 days with no leaks thought everything was finally ok wrong again.

Took the car out for a 20mi run on Sunday stopped at the gas station and there were 5-6 drops of oil on the ground. Then got home and parked the car again 5-6 drops on the ground. The front of the pan at the bottom of the U is soaked. Passenger side top front of pan is soaked runs all the way to the bottom of the U. Oil splashing down the bottom of the pan as well as down the passenger side of pan. Oil is splashing as far back as the starter if not further. Oil is coming out of the breather on the passenger side (pretty sure breathers are supposed to suck air in not blow out oil).

Oil pressure guage at idle is fine once I get over 50mph its all over the place. If i give it more throttle oil pressure drops. Let off the gas and it then goes back up.

Here are some other issues I have as well:

Engine boggs down when giving it gas from a dead stop as if its starved for fuel
Hard to start now even with a HI Torque Mini Starter after first start.
Upon initial start up engine temp runs up to 250 stops and then drops back to 200 in less than 2 seconds.
Checked oil when cold before driving it was at the full line. Got home after driving and its now a 1/4 in high.

Totally confused back to the builder again......I am becoming so disgruntled with this car!

I have just about every symptom of blow by as far as I can tell without smoke coming out of the engine. I also put a differnt breather (K&N) on the car took it off becasue it was blowing all the K&N oil out of the breather.

 

Run a compression/ leak down tests, start a log with details of tests and any changes. This way you have specific details to confront the builder with. So you checked the oil cold and drove it then checked it again cold and it gained a quarter inch?

 

Yep cold it was dead on.....when I got home checked it hot and it was at least a 1/4 in higher than the full line. Second start is an absolute bear will crank and crank but wont turn over. Probably have fuel in the oil at this point. I assume that the rings have probably washed out over pressuring the crankcase which is now blowing seals. Honestly it looks like the engine is coming out and will have to be rebuilt again after less than 200 miles. Talked to the builder and they are going to take care of everything may even do a swap for a 383. Just want to figure out what the hell is going on with this engine.

 

Is the pan and dip stick original to the vehicle? Checking the oil cold and then hot, you'd expect to see some thermal expansion, but I don't know about .25". Go back out and check it cold, see we're its at. Its cool that the builder is standing behind it. Ask that it be bored and torque plate honed. Makes me wonder about the piston to cylinder clearance.

 

Dipstick is not original to the car....aftermarket. But it has always been on the money. Checked it this morning before going to work it was still 1/4in high.

So if this has to get rebuild where does it go from there 377? 383?