Pretty well finished my garage resto...

Before


After

 

Heads & cam are installed. Got Mr Scott Foxwell to walk me thru pushrod measurements, wow, what a help! Thanks Scott

Intake & covers are just sitting there... Still need odds and ends. Winter is here sooooo. Here we go

 

Pipes




New workbench

 

Our rental


0001 vette



Cutaway

 

 

For some unknown reason...summit will not ship ngk4091 plugs to my address, can someone help me pick a plug that is comparable...

 

How about Amazon?

 

Pretty cold heat range. Is this engine primarily for racing?
Looks like O'reilly's has them too.

 

I have no real understanding on spark plug selection... 76stroker recommended IT earlier in the thread, so I bought it.

Actually got them on rock auto, like $1.5 each, so not bad!

 

You always leave your toys out on the front lawn like that?

 

Colder heat range plugs are to remove more heat from the combustion chamber via the head and the cooling system. This helps to prevent detonation. But it also removes power from the combustion process. This is a fair trade-off to prevent detonation in high output operations.

Hotter plugs keep more heat in the combustion chamber. This is to keep the plugs from fouling in normal operations such as idling and normal street driving. It also keeps more heat for combustion for more complete combustion since less overall heat is being developed in street driving.
Also notice the plug gap on the ones you chose is .032". That is for high CR engines, with high cylinder pressures and/or weak ignition system components.
With 11:1 CR or less and normal sometimes spirited driving and a HEI ignition a gap of .040" to .050" can be run. This will give you a hotter and better fuel igniting spark.

So if you find that over time you are fouling plugs you could try something a bit hotter. You could also gap those plugs larger if running an HEI.
I run a 5 or 6 heat range in mine with a gap of .045". 5 heat range normally but maybe 6 if a cylinder(s) is running a bit hotter than the others. Fuel delivery to these engines is not the same from cylinder to cylinder so some run leaner, ergo hotter, than the others.

 

I guess at this point, I'll be giving the 4091 a shot... What would be an indicator that I'm too cold?

Pretty sure I have all the odds and ends in need in my hands or in the mail... Except 1, how do I know if I have a short or long water pump?. There's nothing wrong with the one in the car, but I want to keep that engine complete, don't want to be robbing parts.

 

Developing a miss due to plug fouling. They might run just fine. Depends on your idle to WOT ratio when you drive, and how close your mixture is to ideal.

 

If you look on the pro-filer website it lists the ngk 4091 or colder.So it seems like the right place to start.It looks like your build is progressing nicely.

 

Ya, I'm finally putting the axe to the grindstone... Hopefully my car is repowered for spring time

 

Ok, so I've been in a hotel all week, pacing, with almost all the remaining bits I need to cap off this project. Got home tonite and drop in my pushrods and start laying on rockers... Well I didn't get far! Rocker studs on #1 cyl are different from each other. It appears I have 1 oddball in the mix. Rocker nut will hardly catch a thread. Check all the others, yup, just 1 oddball. It's 11/16 at the base, all the rest are 5/8, wtf? 0.05 difference in height. I happen to have a full set of studs so I grab one, same as the oddball. It matches sum-g1675. What a kick in the teeth!

Thanks Profiler, feeling really good about your quality control right now!

 

Anyone know where to get a rocker stud 3/8 24. 1.82 effective height. 1" of thread?

 

I believe the studs you have are made by pioneer products.Any 1.75 tall stud with the correct thread length should work.I personally went with 7/16 arp studs with scorpion rockers and a jomar stud girdle.Competition products in Wisconsin should carry what you need and their service is good.I f you want to run stud girdles check out Bailey engines in coldwater Michigan.He sells the jomar girdle made specifically for the pro-filer head.Scott can also hook you up with the package if you would like.I believe he still sells on ebay also.

 

I'm not understanding your issue-
Is it that the rocker studs themselves are off or are you saying the machining height of the rocker pad or holes are off in the head?
Are you sure the valves aren't just open on #1 and that is why the studs "appear" too short?
Just trying to understand..

 

I just moved on from that.. Seems to be ok, but the issue was just that there was one stud different than the rest... Someone knew they did that! Would have had to get a different socket to install.

Tonites progress: finished with rockers, studs and pushrods, installed the intake, dropped in the dizzy for a look, installed thermostat, had wrong gasket, so that will have to wait...